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Conanski Conanski is offline

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Showing Visitor Messages 1 to 10 of 406
  1. MotherWolf
    11-15-2014 02:49 PM - permalink
    I'll give that a shot. Thanks
    It's a Mark III conversion van, pretty much intact, she has the beefier (rv) frame and suspension package. 11 city 16 highway is pretty much what Ford says I should get for this set up. Was getting 17 - 18 on the highway. I inspected the plugs and they were soot covered (not fouled yet) which is why I replaced the FPR. I'll check for vacuum leaks and see where that road loses me : ).
    Thanks again,
  2. Conanski
    11-10-2014 12:17 PM - permalink
    No need to take the engine out to install headers.. unless they break off bolts for the exhaust manifolds of course. The stock cam in this motor is very good, if anything it just needs some more valve lift so adding 1.7 rockers is a good option.
  3. dbockian
    11-10-2014 12:01 AM - permalink
    Mr. Conanski, I have enjoyed getting educated reading many of your posts. I have a 1996 Bronco, and am trying to be smart about some modifications. I have some guys that are doing the bulk of the work,and are adding Bassani headers, y-pipe and cat-back. They are going to take out the engine to help with this and some other misc items. They are not pushing me for a mod to the cam, but said that it is very easy while the engine is out. I figure with the added exhaust, I want to improve intake flow. I am going to use the Broco for a daily driver with 95% highway. 5% easy trails. Who doesn't like more torque and horsepower... but what priority is smart, and do I need a cam, or intake, or heads? Thanks you for your thoughts.
  4. Conanski
    11-06-2014 10:14 PM - permalink
    Crane cams has a nice article on that..
  5. tonka toy72
    11-06-2014 06:09 PM - permalink
    tonka toy72
    hey conanski,
    Ive been on the forum for a good amount of time now and you seen to be the man to go to about these 5.0 efi motors. I recently installed gt40p heads on my 5.0 and I was just wondering what the torque specs of the rocker arms are? and also is there any adjustment or sequence I should follow? or just go down the line and torque them? thank you
  6. Conanski
    10-05-2014 10:40 PM - permalink
    Engine firing order isn't a problem when it comes to the injectors because they are wired the same for both engines. The problem with using a different harness is matching all the inputs to the correct wires at the junction connectors going back to the computer. The only way to do that is by comparing wiring diagrams for the two if you can find them.. the generic diagrams you find in a Haynes manual are no good you need authentic Ford diagrams for each year and engine, or by buzzing all the wires in both sections and making a list to ID them, and then swap wires around where necessary in the block connectors so that everything matches up.
  7. GA_Forester
    10-05-2014 08:50 PM - permalink
    I have read many of your posts about swapping a 351 for a 302. Your first recommendation seems to be use the 302 wiring harness. Unfortunately, I read them too late. What can I do if I don't have the original wiring harness?

    I have a 1993 F150 extended cab 4x4 with an E4OD. The 302 blew, and a friend said that he had a 1994 351 that I could have. He would even help put it in because he has done several 302 to 351 swaps. Unfortunately, his swaps were 302 HO to 35, which can apparently use the donor wiring harness. We took the 302 out and recycled it with the original wiring harness.

    I have been looking for another wiring harness for about a year now with no luck. Is there another option? Can I rewire the 351 harness? I will appreciate any suggestions that you have.

    Thanks very much,

    GA_Forester / Robert Simmons
  8. Conanski
    09-17-2014 07:27 PM - permalink
    Built.. welcome back.
  9. Builtihtuff
    09-15-2014 07:37 PM - permalink
    bought a new beast, long time no chat
  10. Conanski
    09-02-2014 09:30 AM - permalink
    Best place to put the O2 is in the passenger side header collector, don't worry it doesn't need to see both banks to work correctly.

    I built my exhaust 1 piece at a time, mounted the headers with a couple bolts and located the O2 sensor where it would interfere with something, remove that header and weld in the bung. Then put it back on, bolt on the flange adapters and fit the first sections of pipe, mark or tack them in place, unbolt those pieces from the headers and finish the welding on the ground. It took me a whole day to complete the job as you might expect but it fit nice and flowed much better than a crimped job from the muffler shop.

About Me

  • About Conanski
    Ottawa, Ontario
    2 Letter State/Province (use "--" for outside USA/
    Current Mileage
    250,000 or more
    Miles per year
    10,000 - 14,999
  • Signature
    Paul (Conan) O'Brien

    1990 5.0HO AOD XLT X-Cab F150 3.55LS, 1994 3.0L 5-sp x-cab Ranger 3.45, 2004 3.0L 5-sp X-cab Ranger Edge 4.10, 2004 2.5L 5-spd Subaru Legacy
    1996 Kawasaki ZX11D, 2004 Honda 599, 2008 Kawasaki KLR650


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  • Last Activity: Yesterday 08:15 PM
  • Join Date: 06-02-2006
  • Referrals: 0


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