6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

Blue smoke, Turbo, and CCV

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Old 10-09-2010, 03:19 PM
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Blue smoke, Turbo, and CCV

My 2006, 184K. This smoking problem started around August. Only after idling, like at a stop sign or a stop light, when I start moving again it will puff out a nice blue cloud of smoke. It seems to smoke a lot less when its fully warmed up and after I've been traveling at higher speed, 45 MPH +. It smokes blue at no other time. My oil consumption doesn't appear to have changed any. I talked to one guy that runs an diesel injection pump/injector turbo service shop, and he said that 6.0 use no gasket between the exhaust manifolds and heads, and they can leak there causing the engine to want to build boost at idle and draw excessive crankcase vapors from the crankcase vent. I did notice last winter with my heater on I can smell exhaust smell in my heater vents, didn't think much of it then.

So, today I figured I would pull the EGR valve out and have a look. It looked ok, mostly dry black soot, nothing really wet, no wetness in the intake manifold. I removed the air intake tube, I managed to break off one of the tabs that holds the ebow in the valve cover, I'm not sure where the piece went, or if I really did break it. I also noticed there was no o-ring on that elbow. The tube wasn't all that wet, and the turbo looked pertty clean. However, there seems to be a lot of up and down play on the turbo shaft, very little front to back play. I can see the turbine fan moving up and down when I'm moving it, I'm not sure of a measurement, maybe 1/16" max? I'm don't know if thats a lot or not. I'm also thinking about doing the CCV re route mod. Any advice on my issues? BTW, the truck is running great, no problems, just blue smoke at take off. Also, truck has no muffler or cat, no other mods.
THANKS!!
 
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Old 10-09-2010, 08:18 PM
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"I talked to one guy that runs an diesel injection pump/injector turbo service shop, and he said that 6.0 use no gasket between the exhaust manifolds and heads, and they can leak there causing the engine to want to build boost at idle and draw excessive crankcase vapors from the crankcase vent. I did notice last winter with my heater on I can smell exhaust smell in my heater vents, didn't think much " -as far as this goes, I don't think so...but who knows.


Sounds like you have a turbo seal going out...I just bought a rebuild kit from gpopshop.com and plan an install in a few weeks. As for the play, I do not have a dial indicator gauge but it seems like I have the same play you do....but not enough to make the compressor wheel touch the housing. Some guys recommend to remove the exhaust from the turbine side (downpipe) and see if you have oil in the pipe.

It pretty much always points to the seal, so when I remove the PITA down pipe I am just going to remove it, rebuild it and clean it at the same time.

Good luck



This is the link (it is the third one down.....only one kit for the 6.0's that he sells) Garrett GT, TP, and GTP38 Kits
 
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Old 10-10-2010, 09:45 AM
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Would it be safe to say with my amount of play in the turbo shaft that it needs rebuilt regardless?
 
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Old 10-10-2010, 04:24 PM
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Without a dial indicator gauge...I couldn't tell you what is and isn't allowable for proper function. I know the kit comes with bearings that I assume are for the shaft. If you are going to get into it that far why not rebuild it?
 
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Old 10-10-2010, 09:25 PM
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Does anyone else have any input? I'd hate to pull the turbo just to see that my smoke is from oil from the CCV tube.
 
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Old 10-10-2010, 10:55 PM
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Like I said....pull your down pipe...if you have oil in the exhaust it probably is from the seal....if not THEN look elsewhere.
 
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Old 10-16-2010, 11:45 PM
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I have very similar symptoms. Seems to smoke worse if I towed prior to shutting down the night before. Would this point to any one thing more than others?

Did you find a solution yet?
 
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Old 10-17-2010, 03:18 AM
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For the OP:

The tolerance is measured in axial play (in and out) and there should be no more then .091mm (0.0036in) for endplay. The radial play tolerance is 0.5mm (0.02in)

Did you ever pull your downpipe?
 
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Old 10-17-2010, 11:39 AM
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FYI....benchwrench (poster on this site) just did a FANTASTIC writeup on step by step rebuild for the 6.0L VGT.....if you decide to do so.
 
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Old 10-17-2010, 12:03 PM
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double post
 
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Old 10-17-2010, 12:03 PM
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Yeah, benchwrench's problem is really close to mine, only mine has been smoking for less time, about 2 months. I decided to pull the turbo, I checked the compressor wheel again, its starting to hit the housing. I didn't run the truck before pulling the turbo, but, slight oil residual in the pipe, slightly damp. I'd like to replace my IC boots on the hot side, any recommendations? I have the solid plastic pipe on the cold side, never had any problems, should I get the metal tube? Is it worth flushing out the IC to get the oil residual out from the CCV?
Thanks!
 
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Old 10-17-2010, 07:13 PM
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benchwrench........wasnt yours also hitting the housing...did the kit fix this?
 
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Old 10-17-2010, 08:09 PM
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I'm going to take the turbo to a shop where the company I work for does business with. They're cutting me a deal, besides my compressor wheel looks like it has small nicks taken out of a few vains. I want a complete balance, something I can't do. Plus it comes with a warranty, something I can't offer. IC cleaning/flush? Opinion?
 
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Old 10-25-2010, 09:58 AM
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Are you referring to the oil in your IC and tubes?

If so hell yess take the tubes off and inspect EVERY boot. As far as flushing the internals of the IC....I never have so I cannot comment on how effective it would be or what you would use to get all the oil out.

One other word of advice I can give you is to check the rigid intake boot on the compressor side. When I did my motor work (full egr delete, intake manifold R&R etc) I found the bottom of said boot to have been eaten away by the oil that flows in from the crankcase. If yours is bad they are relatively cheap...good luck
 
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