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6.4L Power Stroke Diesel Engine fitted to 2008 - 2010 F250, F350 and F450 pickup trucks and F350 + Cab Chassis SPONSORED BY:

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  #16  
Old 10-14-2010, 07:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by origcharger View Post
The biggest differance is on the 6.0 the cooling system is plumbed in series where the coolant flows from one component to the next and a plugged oil cooler will restrict flow to the EGR cooler.
On the 6.4 the system is plumbed in paralel so the oil cooler could be completely plugged and it still won't effect coolant flow through the EGR cooler.
Huh...that makes sense.

A clogged oil cooler may cause oil temps to get real hot but won't cause EGR ooler failure, which seems to be the fastest ticket to engine failure.

I wonder how hot oil temps would get with a clogged oil cooler...
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  #17  
Old 08-19-2014, 10:52 PM
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Bump....

After these trucks have been running for 7-8 years, anyone have any new info to converting the coolant in a 6.4L?
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  #18  
Old 08-20-2014, 07:47 PM
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Personally I would go for it. The ford gold was a problem with the EGR coolers high temps in the 6.0's, I don't see why it would not have the same silicate drop issues in the 6.4. The gold is fine for ford's gas engines, use what the engine builder uses in the 6.4. I understand the warranty fear, personally I would talk to the local ford shop and see if it would void any warranty claim.
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Old 08-20-2014, 07:55 PM
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  #20  
Old 08-26-2014, 10:44 PM
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Everybody seems to be obsessive about mixing coolant with water I don't typically because if I'm in a pinch I can top it off with water if coolant is added 100% but I have never owned a diesel till now. I'm looking into changing to the cat elc and just curious about 100% coolant being to potent for the 6.4
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Old 08-26-2014, 11:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brian1253 View Post
Everybody seems to be obsessive about mixing coolant with water I don't typically because if I'm in a pinch I can top it off with water if coolant is added 100% but I have never owned a diesel till now. I'm looking into changing to the cat elc and just curious about 100% coolant being to potent for the 6.4
There is a reason behind the 50/50 mix as it provides the best possible protection against overheating. Straight coolant isn't a good idea. Most manufacturers are now selling 50/50 premixed to prevent owners from adding tap water as opposed to distilled or RO Water.
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Old 08-27-2014, 06:01 AM
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buying the pre-mix is the best route.
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  #23  
Old 08-27-2014, 09:25 AM
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I've run the Rotella ELC for over a year now. After a good flush and with the ELC coolant my deltas are closer now.....whether it's because of the flush or the coolant who knows mind you. I chose the ELC because no chance of silicate dropping out and you don't need to check anything on it for some huge mileage....Not that i'm lazy...just one less thing to worry about lol. When I switched mine I didn't go with the premix....I went straight coolant and then diluted with distilled water. The reason I did this....is during the flush process your block is filled with just distilled water....If you don't get every last drop of distilled water out....(say by not wanting to fight with block plug on passenger side as it's a p i t a to get to), it will dilute the pre-mix slightly. I took total coolant capacity....calculated coolant needed for I think a 60/40 mix....put all coolant in first...then filled remaining with distilled water.
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  #24  
Old 08-27-2014, 07:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RM2738 View Post
There is a reason behind the 50/50 mix as it provides the best possible protection against overheating. Straight coolant isn't a good idea. Most manufacturers are now selling 50/50 premixed to prevent owners from adding tap water as opposed to distilled or RO Water.
Mixing with water lowers the boiling point and raises the freezing point(that is the wrong way you want those numbers moving) some anti freeze company's will even post the boiling point and freezing point on the bottle at 100% 75/25 60/40 50/50 to give you an idea of the mix you would want for your area (lived in the mountains needed freezing point protection) and 50/50 coolant pre mixed is a ripoff half of it is water and sometimes they charge the same amount as for the pure antifreeze. It should be half price not one dollar cheaper. Kinda went on a rant there sorry but I fail to see the benefit of mixing it with water. Unless something might clog my oil cooler like silicates but I'm getting away from that.
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Old 08-27-2014, 07:13 PM
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pH and additive concentrations aren't in the correct ranges without the proper coolant/water mix. Running straight coolant is pretty foolish, though possibly better than adding tap water.
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  #26  
Old 08-27-2014, 07:32 PM
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Interesting read.

http://m.bulktransporter.com/archive/international-truck-outlines-benefits-extended-life-coolant
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  #27  
Old 08-27-2014, 07:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brian1253 View Post
Mixing with water lowers the boiling point and raises the freezing point(that is the wrong way you want those numbers moving) some anti freeze company's will even post the boiling point and freezing point on the bottle at 100% 75/25 60/40 50/50 to give you an idea of the mix you would want for your area (lived in the mountains needed freezing point protection) and 50/50 coolant pre mixed is a ripoff half of it is water and sometimes they charge the same amount as for the pure antifreeze. It should be half price not one dollar cheaper. Kinda went on a rant there sorry but I fail to see the benefit of mixing it with water. Unless something might clog my oil cooler like silicates but I'm getting away from that.
You're clearly not a chemist, and making an expen$ive bet based on an incorrect hunch. I'm not a chemist either, but publicly available data shows you're operating on bad information.

Click the image to open in full size.

Any mixture above 80% raises the freezing point of the mixture. Pure ethylene glycol freezes at 9° F. Not sure where you're from, but that's not uncommon in New England during the winter.

Secondly ethylene glycol isn't capable of transferring heat as well as a water based mix.

Click the image to open in full size.


Meaning your cooling system would become overwhelmed much faster on pure antifreeze. So when you are pulling a trailer uphill your engine temp would rise faster, and your cooling fan may or may not be capable of keeping temperatures in check because it was designed for a proper mixture of antifreeze and water.

There's a reason they design these things the way they do, and you'll notice that in just about every piece of literature there are warnings about how important it is to maintain the proper mixture. Do you really think you know better than the teams of engineers and the thousands of man-hours that went into designing these things?

I don't, so I follow the factory specs. You should too.

SOURCES:

http://www.meglobal.biz/media/produc...Global_MEG.pdf
http://www.centralstatesbus.com/MSDS...bitterment.pdf
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  #28  
Old 08-27-2014, 07:39 PM
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Here's another one:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom and Ray
Make certain the antifreeze will protect your car at the winter temperatures you'll experience in your area. For most areas, you'll need a 50-50 mix of coolant to water. You may think, "I'll be extra good to my car, and give it 100% coolant." Guess what? You're wrong. The 50-50 mix has a lower freezing point. Not only that, but 100% coolant is less able to transfer heat away from your engine, and has been known to cause such nasty things as melted spark plugs of engine failure under the wrong circumstances.So, mix it up!
SOURCE.
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  #29  
Old 08-29-2014, 03:24 AM
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Not to throw another choice out there but i have gone to Fleeguard's ES Compleat in my entire fleet. Mixes with everything took the guess work out of what works together and what does not. Been using it for awhile now with no issues.

http://www.cumminsfiltration.com/pdf...LT15070-GB.pdf
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Old 08-29-2014, 03:24 AM
 
 
 
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