No spark/start.
#1
No spark/start.
F250-82 400 DS II.
Started the truck and backed out of the garage and left it idle for a minute or two, then needed to move it a little and gave some throttle- it hesitated and died and the truck is from that moment stone dead and no spark
Have performed some tests according to Haynes Ford PU 80-94 Chapter 5 Engine electrical system Duraspark II.
Some observations is:
faulty ballas resistor ?-get no readings at ohm-test
bad distibuter?-get no readings when measuring the resistance of stator and wiring harness acc Haynes chap 5 pict 5.51 and 5.55 and using the distributer base as connecting point. When checking the stator itself it seems ok-590 ohm. When measuring between the dist connector and the dist base-no readings. After the truck died there is no ignition light coming on on the instrument cluster.
I feel I need some help to solve this problem.
Started the truck and backed out of the garage and left it idle for a minute or two, then needed to move it a little and gave some throttle- it hesitated and died and the truck is from that moment stone dead and no spark
Have performed some tests according to Haynes Ford PU 80-94 Chapter 5 Engine electrical system Duraspark II.
Some observations is:
faulty ballas resistor ?-get no readings at ohm-test
bad distibuter?-get no readings when measuring the resistance of stator and wiring harness acc Haynes chap 5 pict 5.51 and 5.55 and using the distributer base as connecting point. When checking the stator itself it seems ok-590 ohm. When measuring between the dist connector and the dist base-no readings. After the truck died there is no ignition light coming on on the instrument cluster.
I feel I need some help to solve this problem.
#2
#5
Thank you all for answering!
The starter moves ok.
The black wire in the dist-connector is ok in to the fastening screw inside the dist.
If I ohm test either of the two other to the dist base (according to Haynes manual) I get no reading.
The wiring between the ignition module and the dist connector is OK.
There is full voltage at the coil both in run and start mode.
I will check with a Ford Truck Service company for a test of the module, if they still can perform it.
The starter moves ok.
The black wire in the dist-connector is ok in to the fastening screw inside the dist.
If I ohm test either of the two other to the dist base (according to Haynes manual) I get no reading.
The wiring between the ignition module and the dist connector is OK.
There is full voltage at the coil both in run and start mode.
I will check with a Ford Truck Service company for a test of the module, if they still can perform it.
#6
Is it possible to move this post over to Performance, Engines & Troubleshooting > 335 Series- 5.8/351M, 6.6/400, 351 Cleveland ?
#7
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I will check with a Ford Truck Service company for a test of the module, if they still can perform it.
If I ohm test either of the two other to the dist base (according to Haynes manual) I get no reading.
The wiring between the ignition module and the dist connector is OK.
There is full voltage at the coil both in run and start mode.
There is full voltage at the coil both in run and start mode.
You need to check the Red wire, and the White wire at the module connector on the main harness for power as well. In Run and In start mode.
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#9
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It sounded to me like he was checking the distributor ground wire.
But now that I read it again, I believe this is what he means. He checked the purple, then Orange wire to ground. I changed a little in my previous answer to reflect this.
You should only get continuity on the black wire to ground.
The other two wires Orange and Purple you should not get continuity to ground IE: "0". If the resistance is less than 70,000 Ohms then you need to replace the stator. If it's more that's fine. Not getting a reading or a reading that's more than 70,000 ohms is fine.
Next you should get a reading between the two, Orange and Purple wires. The resistance here should be between 400 - 1300 Ohms. If it's more or less than specs then replace it.
How is the pickup wheel? Is it really badly rusted? If so replace etc...
But now that I read it again, I believe this is what he means. He checked the purple, then Orange wire to ground. I changed a little in my previous answer to reflect this.
You should only get continuity on the black wire to ground.
The other two wires Orange and Purple you should not get continuity to ground IE: "0". If the resistance is less than 70,000 Ohms then you need to replace the stator. If it's more that's fine. Not getting a reading or a reading that's more than 70,000 ohms is fine.
Next you should get a reading between the two, Orange and Purple wires. The resistance here should be between 400 - 1300 Ohms. If it's more or less than specs then replace it.
How is the pickup wheel? Is it really badly rusted? If so replace etc...
#10
It sounded to me like he was checking the distributor ground wire.
Yes, I checked this wire and it was OK to the screw that holds it in the dist.
But now that I read it again, I believe this is what he means. He checked the purple, then Orange wire to ground. I changed a little in my previous answer to reflect this.
Yes, that's what I did.
You should only get continuity on the black wire to ground.
The other two wires Orange and Purple you should not get continuity to ground IE: "0". If the resistance is less than 70,000 Ohms then you need to replace the stator. If it's more that's fine. Not getting a reading or a reading that's more than 70,000 ohms is fine.
Seems to be OK then.
Next you should get a reading between the two, Orange and Purple wires. The resistance here should be between 400 - 1300 Ohms. If it's more or less than specs then replace it.
I checked the resistance between these two wires and got 585 ohm=OK.
How is the pickup wheel? Is it really badly rusted? If so replace etc...
Yes, I checked this wire and it was OK to the screw that holds it in the dist.
But now that I read it again, I believe this is what he means. He checked the purple, then Orange wire to ground. I changed a little in my previous answer to reflect this.
Yes, that's what I did.
You should only get continuity on the black wire to ground.
The other two wires Orange and Purple you should not get continuity to ground IE: "0". If the resistance is less than 70,000 Ohms then you need to replace the stator. If it's more that's fine. Not getting a reading or a reading that's more than 70,000 ohms is fine.
Seems to be OK then.
Next you should get a reading between the two, Orange and Purple wires. The resistance here should be between 400 - 1300 Ohms. If it's more or less than specs then replace it.
I checked the resistance between these two wires and got 585 ohm=OK.
How is the pickup wheel? Is it really badly rusted? If so replace etc...
Thank you very much for supporting me!
#11
They can test the module at most auto part stores. Autozone, Kragen, O'Riley's etc...
This means one of two things. If the distributor base is corroded or painted you will need to scratch this off enough to get a reading. If the distributor is corroded really bad it will lose it's ground through the distributor base to the engine block. The wire could also be broke etc...
Depending on how you tested it, this sounds fine. you should test the resistor this way. You unplug the ignition switch, DS-II module connector, and the coil, and do a continuity OHM tests between the two wire ends on the red/green stripe wire. There should be between 0.8 to 1.6 ohms on this circut.
I did this test between the red wire, unplugged, at the coil and the red wire from the inition switch at the ignition module,unplugged, and got 0 ohm. I also checked "Ignition coil (RUN) supply voltage" and got 12.4 V- it should have been 6-8 V. The resistor seems to have no effect on the voltage=broken resistor?
You need to check the Red wire, and the White wire at the module connector on the main harness for power as well. In Run and In start mode.
This means one of two things. If the distributor base is corroded or painted you will need to scratch this off enough to get a reading. If the distributor is corroded really bad it will lose it's ground through the distributor base to the engine block. The wire could also be broke etc...
Depending on how you tested it, this sounds fine. you should test the resistor this way. You unplug the ignition switch, DS-II module connector, and the coil, and do a continuity OHM tests between the two wire ends on the red/green stripe wire. There should be between 0.8 to 1.6 ohms on this circut.
I did this test between the red wire, unplugged, at the coil and the red wire from the inition switch at the ignition module,unplugged, and got 0 ohm. I also checked "Ignition coil (RUN) supply voltage" and got 12.4 V- it should have been 6-8 V. The resistor seems to have no effect on the voltage=broken resistor?
You need to check the Red wire, and the White wire at the module connector on the main harness for power as well. In Run and In start mode.
#12
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I did this test between the red wire, unplugged, at the coil and the red wire from the ignition switch at the ignition module,unplugged, and got 0 ohm. I also checked "Ignition coil (RUN) supply voltage" and got 12.4 V- it should have been 6-8 V. The resistor seems to have no effect on the voltage=broken resistor?
My result: Red wire; Run=12.5 V Start=12.3 V, White wire; Run=0 V Start=12.4 V
Red/Light Blue Stripe: 12V in start. No power in run.
White/Light Blue hash: 12V in run, no power in start.
Be aware that aftermarket and replacement DS-II modules reversed the Red and white wire colors at the module harness connector. So essentially the colors swap in the connector. Red for white, white for red. It is wired correctly though, so do not swap the colors around to where they match. Original motorcraft modules from the factory are color coded correctly. There are aftermarket wiring and diagrams that get these two colors swapped as well, so be aware of this quirk.
Here is a picture of how it swaps colors in the harness.
Above all have the module tested at the parts store.
#13
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