I just had my most recent belt tear up, and decided to replace all the idlers, odd sounds coming from them. I wanted to replace the plastic idler pulleys with steel ones, and had to search through several threads to finally get all the part nos, etc;, so to save someone the search next time, here's the accurate skinny on what is needed to do this job right:
My late 94 DFI turbo w/o i'cooler is a code F engine (VIN, 8th digit), original tensioner, this info applies to those engines.
Tensioner idler: This is a smooth faced pulley 90mmx31mm, Gates 38001 (steel). A left-handed thread center bolt, turn cw to remove from the spring-loaded idler.
Smooth fixed idler: This is same pulley used on idler, Gates 38001, held with shoulder bolt with #50 Torx female fitting.
Grooved idler: This pulley is 100mmx32.5mm, Gates 36102 (steel). Same shoulder bolt as other fixed idler.
Bearings: The steel pulleys allow for easy bearing replacement, save that pulley and reuse it with a bearing change-out. I can press them in/out with just a shop vise.
Bearings are #6203-2RS, this is a "generic" bearing that is everywhere, low cost. The "2RS" describes the seals, this suffix varies with manfr's. I bought three spare name-brand (SKF) fully sealed bearings on ebay for less than $10 delivered. No-name brands, if you want 'em, are even less!
Shoulder bolt plastic bushings: These bushings are plastic junk, and are often damaged when you change out a pulley, and sometimes even destroyed/melted during a real messy snafu, I've read a few posts of guys looking for these. They are used to guide the pulley/bearing assembly as you pull down the bolt, so that the shoulder bolt easily enters the bearing properly centered. This shoulder bolt attachment of the two fixed idlers is a Ford design, not International, says my local International dealer. The parts dept at my local Ford dealership says that not only is the plastic bushing not available separately, neither is the bolt - you have to buy all three pieces from Ford (pulley, bolt, bushing) if you want a new bushing! I'll make mine on a lathe, thanks.
I installed these parts, smooth running belt, no noises or squeals, a non-event. My sense is that when I begin to hear odd sounds next time from the belt drive, I'll remove the belt and spin all the pulleys, change out any bearings that don't look right. No fun standing beside the road with a shredded belt and no where to turn. In my toolbox: new spare belt, spare pulleys, bearings, torx drive bit for ratchet; this one's not going to make me walk again!
If I've made any mistakes on any of these part nos, someone please correct me. I know the pulley and bearing nos are correct, but the belt nos are cross-references to the NAPA belt that I put on the engine.
Hope this helps someone out there save some time and $.
I changed my serp belt ('96 7.3) a while back. When checked, again, a week later, the 'back' edge was starting to fray. A TSB recommended changing the entire tensioner out. I used the Gates part and it is still performing flawlessly 27K miles later.
Existing idlers were smooth and their bearings still snug so I just used them. Ironically, I never heard a belt/pulley noise.
If you search for the TSB, look under FEAD (front engine accessory drive or something similar).
Thanks for the insights. I was stranded at work once with a belt popped, and a bad pulley, had to go to the local napa (rainy walk), worked late and nobody around, had to buy the torx bit, pulley, and belt. Lesson Learned. There is a tool box in all trucks, with spare pulleys, ratchet, sockets, and belts. The BUSHINGS, Need to find some spares. Napa Belt is now a spare and put the New Goodyear on it 2 days later.
In any case, GOODYEAR GATORBACK, is the way to go I was introduced to them in the mid 90's and have never used anything else. They outlast every other belt in any application.