Last spring a machine shop finished with a pair of my heads after having them for 7 MONTHS! With things slowing a little activity wise, I began the assembly yesterday.
There is one G head and a 113. Both have intake and ex. hardened seats, stock spring seat pressure, hardened keepers, positive seal valve guide seals, new guides, AND 1.78 intake valves. Yes, 1.78.

To bring combustion chamber volumes together, the 113 was milled. .008, and all of its valves are new. The G head was not milled, and a good set of used valves were reground, thus sinking them slightly and increasing the G chamber volume.

These will be fitted with some bronze bushed 1.54 rockers, and go on top of a stock 292 C2AE .030 over, stock cam. A while back I reported on the short block, finding it like new in all the major areas. Went ahead and put on new fuel pump, oil pump, water pump, timing set, and distributor drive shaft (most were on hand).

I used steel head gaskets with Copper Coat to help with compression, which will be between 8.4 and 8.5:1. Should be a great street motor.

Plan to test run it on the remnants of a '64 PU frame. Main concern is coolant leak .

Blasting and cleaning one rocker cover took almost as much time as mounting one of the heads.

Paint will be a little different. Two tone. Ford red, with gold timing cover, oil pan and rocker covers.

 

Hey,


where's the pictures?

 

Rick, I will get some when it is further along. Hope I have a functioning starter. Still need to punch out rocker shaft end plugs, clean and reassemble. Maybe 1-2 weeks to almost starting? Dont know what to do about alternator, as there isnt one on hand and dont want to buy it. May just install a nonwired generator to use as idler pulley. Battery would need enough juice to keep engine running for good heat saturation before retorqueing head bolts. Just thinking aloud.

Edit: If it does leak coolant, then crap. Heads will have to come off, the G will need to be surfaced, and then the 113 will need surfaced .008 more than the G. Time, gaskets, machine shop, HOPE NOT!

 

2 weeks have come and gone. I've been working on the "test stand". Removed the '64 cab and box with some effort. Now frame is bare so some cleaning and painting of the engine end is started. Close to cutting frame 18 in. behind bell cross member. Then move back into barn, weld on a support to hold up rear, and mount engine. Things always take longer than expected.

Toyed with the idea of cutting frame further to the rear, bending in rales to hold a trailer hitch. Then could drive the engine around the country , since front axle and wheels are still mounted. Could be pretty cool if going past a parade's judging stand and the trailored motor is fired up while in tow ha/ha.

 

Mike, you REALLY need to get out more!!!

 

Pretty Funny! You are probably right too!

 

Take the front off of an old boat trailer and weld it to the front of the frame. That way the engine will be pointing the right direction.
I don't think you need to get out more, you just need some new magazine subscriptions.

 

Sounds like your keeping busy - get er done before the weather turns!

 

Mike, in re: coolant leak, check the back of the driver's side head on the intake side. There's a hole that needs to have a bolt in it to prevent a leak.

Good luck.

Paul

p.s. I've been driving my 54 for a while now. I got the 223 running, but I'm working on a '59 292 to take its place.

 

Hi Paul, it is good to know you are still kicking . It is looking like I can get 3 or so days of REAL time for getting this project to make some noise. "Stand" is done. Need to clean and mount a flywheel, starter, and some other things, but 3 days will get it close. First anxiety point after mounting up is finding what the cylinder cranking pressures measure.

Mike

 

It is close to Christmas. And the engine start date is STILL 2 weeks or so out. Ended up taking off the heads. I will pick up the G from the machinists tomorrow. He took off .005. The 113 is back in place, and the G will be in a day or two. THEN can put this thing on the test stand, which is ready. Plan to fill the engine with coolant while it is still on the regular stand to make sure there arent any leaks.

 

Mike, I usually start my engines on demineralized water until it is run in and retorqued then check for leaks... actually my 312" still has demin in it.

 

I've been thinking about using water. Think I will. What is your thought about dissolving some radiator type sealant in the water before filling up?

With no experience using steel gaskets, I am a little nervous. Both sides of the gaskets were coppercoated before installation. G head is now on, so tomorrow I should be able to install the motor unless something else comes up.

The G has .012 off, and the 113 .018 in off. If cranking pressures are close, great. If not the 113 will need maybe .006 more milling. Dont know how much the difference can be before causing intake seal problems.

 

I have steel gaskets in my 312". I have not had any problems with them. I did use some Alumaseal? (think this was discussed on that other site).

The reason I used demin water is that it doesn't conduct electricity so it should be safe to use with different metals. Such as iron block and aluminum intake... I hope that makes some kind on sense.

 

It is getting closer to fire up. Somehow the color scheme makes me think of the phrase "French *****" . Maybe it would be better with Chrome Covers, but I'm not going to worry about it.



Hmm. Did not know that the word w h or e was a no no.