I am converting a 79 f250 2wd to a 4wd and I have the motor out of the truck so I was thinking that it would be a good ideal to get the motor rebuilt. Ive never rebuilt a motor so Im going to get someone to do it for me. does anyone have any ideal what it will cost to get a 460 rebuilt?

 

That depends on alot of different factors, such as will it need to be bored out, and new pistons bought, will it need a new cam shaft, does the crank need turned, or does it just need bearings, rings, and gaskets.


PS: Hey, I kinda like your screen name, it has a nice ring to it.

 

what makes you want to rebuild it? does it smoke, use oil, knock ,ect.?

 

it does smoke little not bad, uses little oil, NO knocking. The motor has 150k miles and I have it out so I thought it would be a good ideal to do it now.

as for Tees77f150 I want the works. I dont want to have to pull it back out in a year or two cause i chose not to do the works.

Is this not a good ideal? This is my first truck that ive completely redone so I need someones opp.

 

smoke on start up or all the time? i couldnt tell you for sure on the 460 but i just did an oldsmobile 307. gm parts are generally cheaper than ford too. on the 307 i re ringed it, replaced one scored piston, has the block honed, magnafluxed, and washed. i had the heads magna fluxed, and planed, ordered a kit that had rings, bearings, all gaskets ,seals, and an oil pump. im into it about $900 and thats me doing the rebuild work.

 

Depending on what needs to be replaced (like new pistons vs a re-ring kit), I'd budget around $1,600... $800 for machine work and $800 for parts. I am assuming a basic rebuild and no goodies like a new carb, aluminum intake, or lopey cam.

 

Why would anyone do a rebuild when a long block crate engine cost about the same or less.

 

Maybe its time to do a compression test, that will tell you something about the condition of your engine, throw a vacuum guage on it, that it another way of gaining information. I would look and see what you got with those tests, before I would start dumping money that you could put in other areas of your truck and be rollin down the highway.

If it was taken care of, perhaps a new set of bearings in the bottom end, and check the heads and new valve seal, could stop that smoking at start up, and all new gaskest throughout, and a fresh paint job, and you will 80 to 100 thousand till it needs some of the things mentioned above.

 

It depends on the circumstances. For a daily driver or utility/work car or truck, there is nothing wrong with a crate long block. I'd do that in a heartbeat. They come with a warranty and it can be swapped over a weekend. And sometimes the really good warranties are offered when the engine is swapped by an approved installer.

However, alot of us typically want to throw a few upgrades like a different cam & lifters, better timing set, oil pump, and moly rings. Plus, we can control the bearing tolerances and ring gaps. Lastly, there are good rebuilders and crummy rebuilders. The guy or gal assembling the engine has no intrinisic personal interest in the engine unlike you or I who will, in the end, depend on it to get us from point A to point B.

In some circles (like K-code Mustang owners), keeping the original block, number-matching block (ala some GM vehicles), or period-correct block is a must to preserve the vehicle's authenticity.

I've seen (and heard run) well-built engines that were built on a remanufactured shortblock. Again, it depends what you are starting out with, its intended use, and what direction you want to take it.

$0.02

 

I'd rather build my own engine then buy remanufactured even if they were the same price. Lots of reasons why. Quality, specs, HP, pride, etc.

 

Thanks for the response. There is a lot to be said for "I did and I like it" price should not enter that concept. For me it would be beyond my confidence level to do one myself. I am an assembler level mechanic and know my limitations.