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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van SPONSORED BY:

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Old 09-28-2010, 08:28 PM
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teppler teppler is offline
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Testing alternator

Okay had a battery to go south so after reeplacing and charging both batteries took truck down to Auto Zone to get them to run an Alternator check, guy asked me which battery was the primary battery well of course I had no idea and told him so he proceeded to connect his tester and told me one battery tested 35 amps and the other 70 amps,
Have the following questions:
1. Is there a primary battery?
2. Does the alternator charge one battery at a time depending on the
batteries condition?
3. Do these results seem okay?

VOM meter shows 13.7 volts on both batteries no load.
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Old 09-28-2010, 08:42 PM
Zmann Zmann is offline
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they need to test with the truck running and both hooked up when they do the alt test // if load testing they are tied together so unhook the pass side ( easiest and test seperatly )
but I don't suggest running the truck ,, when in doubt pull them out and bring them in to the bench .
do you have the batt light going on?
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Old 09-28-2010, 08:42 PM
gearloose1 gearloose1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teppler View Post
Okay had a battery to go south so after reeplacing and charging both batteries took truck down to Auto Zone to get them to run an Alternator check, guy asked me which battery was the primary battery well of course I had no idea and told him so he proceeded to connect his tester and told me one battery tested 35 amps and the other 70 amps,
Have the following questions:
1. Is there a primary battery?
2. Does the alternator charge one battery at a time depending on the
batteries condition?
3. Do these results seem okay?

VOM meter shows 13.7 volts on both batteries no load.


Buster, you have been 'ad

The batteries are hooked up in parallel.

No "primary".

They should be testing identical if your cabling is not defective and both batteries are brand new, fully charged.

Disconnect both, check shape of cables, esp. resistance.

Then fully charge them, load test them.

IF they pass.

Alternator output --- use a clamp on ammeter to read output with everything running and get voltage at same time.

If the batteries are being drained down one more than the other (and hence a bigger charge going in), chances are, the cable to the other battery is not carrying the weight when heavy drain (starting) is occurring. It can be dirty . bad terminals connections etc.

That explains why it is discharging a lot less, and have less amps going in when alternator is charging --- because it is less discharged, it takes less amps.


See link below.
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Old 09-28-2010, 08:58 PM
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Both batteries were tested out of truck, replaced one battery and the other tested Ok. All cables are clean and in good condition. Assume you mean "had" not "ad"
I know they are in parallel and was just wanting confirmation that there wasn't some charging circuit I did not know about maybe a solid state switch that switched from one battery to another depending on state of battery charge.
I am aware that the best thing is to replace batteries in pairs but at $75.00 each that just is not an option at this time.
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Old 09-28-2010, 08:59 PM
gearloose1 gearloose1 is offline
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Hook up a volt meter and monitor voltage while you are driving etc.

With full load, every electrical gadget running, at 70mph, you should be somewhere north of 12.8 to 13v

If you are below 12, you got a problem.

Likewise if you are above 14.2

Test the latter (max voltage) with every electrical gadget turned off.
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Old 09-28-2010, 09:04 PM
Zmann Zmann is offline
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batteries at A$75 each ? nice ... to test your alt ,, make sure your truck has been running for 2 minutes ,, the glow plug drain will confuse the Auto zone tester

What issue are you having?

ps your correct no switching circuit ,isolator etc .. they are hardwired together
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Old 09-28-2010, 09:13 PM
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Okay that all makes sense thanks guys will check tomorrow..
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Old 09-28-2010, 09:16 PM
gearloose1 gearloose1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teppler View Post
I am aware that the best thing is to replace batteries in pairs but at $75.00 each that just is not an option at this time.
What you risk:

a) bad battery frying good one

b) alternator frying

c) FICM frying

2 batteries at the same time is soooo cheap compared to the alternatives.
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Old 09-28-2010, 09:16 PM
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