390 Engine break-in

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Old 02-23-2003, 02:58 PM
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390 Engine break-in

Has anyone ever used a drill or impact wrench start and enginer break-in before actually causing combustion inside the engine. I was thinking about after my rebuild I will have to install the distributor and all external component of the engine myself and was thinking about lubrication of the internal parts before actually starting the engine. Just thought I would think outloud. I did pick up the "How to Rebuild Big-Block Ford Engines" by Steve Christ also, wonderful book for someone who know little like me. Thanks guys for all your help!!!
 
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Old 02-23-2003, 03:05 PM
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390 Engine break-in

You are talking about pre-oiling, I've done it with a drill and its a great idea on a fresh engine. Not so sure about the impact wrench but give it a whirl with the drill, get your pressure up and then fire that bad boy up. Just follow normal break in procedures and let us know if you have any other questions. This is the point that will greatly impact engine longetivity and power.
 
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Old 02-23-2003, 03:35 PM
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390 Engine break-in

I agree with pro on the drill. Don't use an impact wrench. It'll shock your oil pump and shaft. I've used a 3/8" speed wrench (looks like an old drill brace) and some muscle with good results.
Remember to follow your cam manufacturer's instructions for break-in proceedures, (i.e. keep your rpm's up) to avoid wiping the cam.
Just my 2¢
Greg
 
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Old 02-24-2003, 11:26 AM
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390 Engine break-in

Why not just install the engine, take the spark plugs out, disable the ignition, and crank it for a while to get the oil pressure up?
 
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Old 02-24-2003, 02:56 PM
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390 Engine break-in

Because you will be defeating the purpose of preoiling. By just turning the pump, youre getting oil to all the components before they ever move. Otherwise youre almost staring the engine dry.

Tony Warren
Nebraska
 
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Old 02-24-2003, 02:59 PM
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390 Engine break-in

If you put the assembly lube where it needs to be where you built it, you will not be starting it dry. Also, by doing this, you may actually be washing the assembly lube off the cam, which may score the lifters during inital run in.
 

Last edited by rusty70f100; 02-24-2003 at 03:05 PM.
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Old 02-24-2003, 04:27 PM
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390 Engine break-in

While assembly lube helps a lot with startup it is mostly to keep things from scuffing during assembly. You can only get so much assembly lube between the bearings and journal. You need oil pressure almost instantly. Assembly lube is not going to offer you any more protection than oil other than it is there at the start. You gotta think about the lack of oil being thrown up on the cylinder walls also. Those new rings are going to get hot real quick.
 
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Old 02-24-2003, 10:53 PM
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390 Engine break-in

I might be wrong, but I'm getting the impression he was referring to using the impact to actually turn the engine itself, not the oil pump shaft. Thus, the engine's turning, slinging oil, but no heat from combustion.

This correct, DREAM?

Methinks this would be a bad thing, as you wouldn't be able to reach, nor probably hold, I imagine, 2000+ rpm's with an impact wrench. As stated above, cam break in is critical in the first 15-30 minutes, and if you don't do it right, you're tearing your engine down again, right after you just finished buttoning it up!
 

Last edited by FrayedSanity; 02-24-2003 at 10:56 PM.
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Old 02-24-2003, 11:23 PM
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390 Engine break-in

Yes, that's exactly what I was talking about. But see very clearly not to do it, haha. Maybe I'll just find somebody who has done this 100 times or so and pay them.
 
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Old 02-25-2003, 01:02 AM
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390 Engine break-in

using the impact to actually turn the engine itself, not the oil pump shaft.
That would be a pretty good trick.....what do you have a 1" gun or something......???? hehehe
 
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Old 02-25-2003, 01:06 AM
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390 Engine break-in

Probably take something bigger than that, specially once you get up over 10:1 CR
 
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Old 02-25-2003, 02:09 AM
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390 Engine break-in

You'll bust the balancer bolt using something strong enough to turn the engine over at a rate faster than a slow roll. Remember that for every 360 degrees the crank turns the oil pump driveshaft turns 180 degrees. To get a prime the oil pump needs to turn at a fairly rapid rate until it gets some oil in the system. Using an oil pump primer is the only correct way to do business. I really don't see what the big issue is with this. It is so very easy to do it properly.
 
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Old 02-25-2003, 04:06 AM
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390 Engine break-in

Well Ratsmoker, the problem with me is that I am ignorant to a newly rebuilt engine (literally), but theoretically I didn't think turning a new engine with an impact wrench was the best idea. I was just thinking of a fast way to do this without actually causing combustion inside the engine. Not that I am in a hurry, but just thinking. Sorry for the strange idea guys.
 
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Old 02-25-2003, 12:11 PM
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390 Engine break-in

One other thing to note is that when you dealing with a new engine is that it takes time for the oil pump to pull oil from the pan and fill the pump and then the filter and the passages.

It's not a long time, but priming the oil pump and filter sure helps.
 
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Old 02-25-2003, 09:44 PM
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390 Engine break-in

I don't see any ignorant people here. No ignorant questions either. Didn't mean to sound harsh with my reply. Just wondering about the purpose but now I understand.
 


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