Need some opinions on high mileage f150
#1
Need some opinions on high mileage f150
Well im at the point where im stuck between a few things... the truck is a 95 f150 ext. cab. 4x4 EFI 351w W/ E40D trans. 3.55 gear ratio with 210k miles. The truck is overall in pretty good condtion besides a few major rust spots on the rear fender wells and on the lower half of the cab. The paint still shines up nicely for having 210k but i was hit by a girl texting and will have to have the right door fixed and repainted. It runs pretty good and drive it back and forth about 40-60 miles each day sometimes more. Heres what i have done so far to the truck sense i bought it with 189k... I am the second owner and bought it from a ford dealership manager which is why the paint and interior is in such good shape. So mechanically from what i can tell there has been no major problems and i have had no major problems sense i have bought it.
Mechanical work and fluids -new serpentine belt, new tensioner pully, new spark plugs, new spark plug wires, new distrubitor, new battery, new trans. shift cable, oil changed every 3500-5000 miles with valvoline high mileage synthic blend 10w30 and wix oil filter, balanced and rotated tires, front end alignment, full 2 1/2" true dual exhaust from manifolds back into 4 1/2" stainless steel tips no cats. or mufflers.
Extras i have added- 30 percent tint all the way around, bug deflector, billet grill, husky floor mats, bedliner, chrome bedrails, husky floor mats, Alpine CD player.
The first few questions... The truck is need of shocks (it currently has the gas magnums whichare yellow) the ride quality is not the big of deal im looking for the most heavy duty i can get for it what should i get? Should i get the trans. flushed with the type of mileage is on it? I have always been told if its a high mileage vehicle and you dont know the records dont do it cause it may dislodge something that could cause an issue...
Also is there anything else on these trucks i should check that might go bad with having high miles?
Lastly i would like to get some more power but am not sure the extent i should go with it having 210k miles... I defiantly plan on doing headers which i figured will get me around 20 rwhp and 30 rwtq with the exhaust system my question is with 210k how much more can i do? would a cam. and heads be to much? The truck is a DD and i will plan on eventually doing a 4 inch lift with 33s sense the suspension could use a refresh what should i go with cam. wise? Or should i just plan on rebuilding the engine?
Mechanical work and fluids -new serpentine belt, new tensioner pully, new spark plugs, new spark plug wires, new distrubitor, new battery, new trans. shift cable, oil changed every 3500-5000 miles with valvoline high mileage synthic blend 10w30 and wix oil filter, balanced and rotated tires, front end alignment, full 2 1/2" true dual exhaust from manifolds back into 4 1/2" stainless steel tips no cats. or mufflers.
Extras i have added- 30 percent tint all the way around, bug deflector, billet grill, husky floor mats, bedliner, chrome bedrails, husky floor mats, Alpine CD player.
The first few questions... The truck is need of shocks (it currently has the gas magnums whichare yellow) the ride quality is not the big of deal im looking for the most heavy duty i can get for it what should i get? Should i get the trans. flushed with the type of mileage is on it? I have always been told if its a high mileage vehicle and you dont know the records dont do it cause it may dislodge something that could cause an issue...
Also is there anything else on these trucks i should check that might go bad with having high miles?
Lastly i would like to get some more power but am not sure the extent i should go with it having 210k miles... I defiantly plan on doing headers which i figured will get me around 20 rwhp and 30 rwtq with the exhaust system my question is with 210k how much more can i do? would a cam. and heads be to much? The truck is a DD and i will plan on eventually doing a 4 inch lift with 33s sense the suspension could use a refresh what should i go with cam. wise? Or should i just plan on rebuilding the engine?
#2
I'll try to answer these questions as best I can with my humble opinions. Someone else may differ.
Shocks: I prefer KYB shocks for a stockish vehicle; heck, just about any pickup. Never had any ride harshness or wallowing feeling with KYBs.
Transmission flush: Most dealerships have a transmission fluid exchange machine. I would recommend using this but with this warning: DO NOT use ANY pressurized flushing solution, as it will do damage to marginal seals. Just use a standard low pressure fluid exchange with a new filter and pan gasket.
Engine: I would highly recommend getting or doing a compression test on your current engine. If there is anything that looks out of the ordinary after the compression test, then you know you have problems that need addressed. I might also do a compression leakdown test if the compression test shows anything out of the ordinary. Once one or both of these are done and the engine checks out okay, then add headers if you want. Again, make sure the engine is relatively sound before beginning any performance upgrades (headers, etc.)
Rebuilding the engine: If the above compression and compression leakdown test show the engine needs a rebuild, then by all means do one if you plan on keeping the vehicle for an extended length of time, or are looking to upgrade it with performance parts. If you do rebuild the engine, then would be a good time to do some minor valve bowl work and possibly a gasket match porting of the cylinder heads, and possibly a performance camshaft replacement.
I hope this helps.
Shocks: I prefer KYB shocks for a stockish vehicle; heck, just about any pickup. Never had any ride harshness or wallowing feeling with KYBs.
Transmission flush: Most dealerships have a transmission fluid exchange machine. I would recommend using this but with this warning: DO NOT use ANY pressurized flushing solution, as it will do damage to marginal seals. Just use a standard low pressure fluid exchange with a new filter and pan gasket.
Engine: I would highly recommend getting or doing a compression test on your current engine. If there is anything that looks out of the ordinary after the compression test, then you know you have problems that need addressed. I might also do a compression leakdown test if the compression test shows anything out of the ordinary. Once one or both of these are done and the engine checks out okay, then add headers if you want. Again, make sure the engine is relatively sound before beginning any performance upgrades (headers, etc.)
Rebuilding the engine: If the above compression and compression leakdown test show the engine needs a rebuild, then by all means do one if you plan on keeping the vehicle for an extended length of time, or are looking to upgrade it with performance parts. If you do rebuild the engine, then would be a good time to do some minor valve bowl work and possibly a gasket match porting of the cylinder heads, and possibly a performance camshaft replacement.
I hope this helps.
#3
I'll try to answer these questions as best I can with my humble opinions. Someone else may differ.
Shocks: I prefer KYB shocks for a stockish vehicle; heck, just about any pickup. Never had any ride harshness or wallowing feeling with KYBs.
Transmission flush: Most dealerships have a transmission fluid exchange machine. I would recommend using this but with this warning: DO NOT use ANY pressurized flushing solution, as it will do damage to marginal seals. Just use a standard low pressure fluid exchange with a new filter and pan gasket.
Engine: I would highly recommend getting or doing a compression test on your current engine. If there is anything that looks out of the ordinary after the compression test, then you know you have problems that need addressed. I might also do a compression leakdown test if the compression test shows anything out of the ordinary. Once one or both of these are done and the engine checks out okay, then add headers if you want. Again, make sure the engine is relatively sound before beginning any performance upgrades (headers, etc.)
Rebuilding the engine: If the above compression and compression leakdown test show the engine needs a rebuild, then by all means do one if you plan on keeping the vehicle for an extended length of time, or are looking to upgrade it with performance parts. If you do rebuild the engine, then would be a good time to do some minor valve bowl work and possibly a gasket match porting of the cylinder heads, and possibly a performance camshaft replacement.
I hope this helps.
Shocks: I prefer KYB shocks for a stockish vehicle; heck, just about any pickup. Never had any ride harshness or wallowing feeling with KYBs.
Transmission flush: Most dealerships have a transmission fluid exchange machine. I would recommend using this but with this warning: DO NOT use ANY pressurized flushing solution, as it will do damage to marginal seals. Just use a standard low pressure fluid exchange with a new filter and pan gasket.
Engine: I would highly recommend getting or doing a compression test on your current engine. If there is anything that looks out of the ordinary after the compression test, then you know you have problems that need addressed. I might also do a compression leakdown test if the compression test shows anything out of the ordinary. Once one or both of these are done and the engine checks out okay, then add headers if you want. Again, make sure the engine is relatively sound before beginning any performance upgrades (headers, etc.)
Rebuilding the engine: If the above compression and compression leakdown test show the engine needs a rebuild, then by all means do one if you plan on keeping the vehicle for an extended length of time, or are looking to upgrade it with performance parts. If you do rebuild the engine, then would be a good time to do some minor valve bowl work and possibly a gasket match porting of the cylinder heads, and possibly a performance camshaft replacement.
I hope this helps.
#4
The Monroe gas magnum shocks are a good shock. They are probably geared more for heavy duty use than the KYB. I do like KYB though, but I think your better off with new yellow Monroes. I have Rancho RSX on mine and am very happy with them. Stay away from the RS5000, they are not gas charged.
#5
93f250tn,
Glad that the information is helping you out.
The compression test is one of the first things I always do when I purchase a "new to the fleet" vehicle, regardless of age or mileage. I know that you said the engine in this vehicle has 210k and was maintained, but 210k of stop and go city driving is more abusive to an engine than 210k of mainly highway cruising at speed. The compression test is the only way, without tearing down the engine, to determine the shape of the engine.
The compression leakdown test is only really recommended if you find a weak cylinder or all cylinders seem weak on the compression test. I usually do one just out of curiousity, so I know exactly what is going on with the engine internally.
Another thing that you could do is an oil analysis at the next oil change. This will tell you if there is any metal shavings in the oil, which is not a good thing to have.
Other things I am known to do on recently purchased vehicle:
- Full 4 wheel brake inspection. Remember, your life depends on these things working properly. I will also repack or replace 2WD front wheel bearings and replace seals at this time, since I am in the area. I prefer to inspect this when I get the vehicle, and annually thereafter.
- Suspension and steering system inspection. I will usually just take it to a known good alignment shop and have it aligned, but I also go through all the steering components myself. This is another system that many overlook until something fails. I prefer to inspect this when I get the vehicle, and annually thereafter.
- Coolant system flush. I just like to know what I have to work with, and a cooling system flush telly you just what the previous owner did or did not do for cooling system maintenance. Also, at this time, I will usually replace all cooling system hoses and the thermostat, just to be safe.
- Ignition system. I'll usually replace the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and coil just to know I have known good components.
- Fuel filter(s). Again, replacement means you know what you have.
- Differential fluid replacement. You would be amazed at how many people do not do this on a regular basis. Replacing the fluid and removing the inspection cover (if equipped with one) is relatively simple, and a good way to check your ring and pinion for any damage.
And if you are wondering where I learned to do this, I worked for a Ford dealership in my youth, and learned from many old time mechanics what to do to determine how good a vehicle really was. They used to call this a "complete vehicle inspection".
Glad that the information is helping you out.
The compression test is one of the first things I always do when I purchase a "new to the fleet" vehicle, regardless of age or mileage. I know that you said the engine in this vehicle has 210k and was maintained, but 210k of stop and go city driving is more abusive to an engine than 210k of mainly highway cruising at speed. The compression test is the only way, without tearing down the engine, to determine the shape of the engine.
The compression leakdown test is only really recommended if you find a weak cylinder or all cylinders seem weak on the compression test. I usually do one just out of curiousity, so I know exactly what is going on with the engine internally.
Another thing that you could do is an oil analysis at the next oil change. This will tell you if there is any metal shavings in the oil, which is not a good thing to have.
Other things I am known to do on recently purchased vehicle:
- Full 4 wheel brake inspection. Remember, your life depends on these things working properly. I will also repack or replace 2WD front wheel bearings and replace seals at this time, since I am in the area. I prefer to inspect this when I get the vehicle, and annually thereafter.
- Suspension and steering system inspection. I will usually just take it to a known good alignment shop and have it aligned, but I also go through all the steering components myself. This is another system that many overlook until something fails. I prefer to inspect this when I get the vehicle, and annually thereafter.
- Coolant system flush. I just like to know what I have to work with, and a cooling system flush telly you just what the previous owner did or did not do for cooling system maintenance. Also, at this time, I will usually replace all cooling system hoses and the thermostat, just to be safe.
- Ignition system. I'll usually replace the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and coil just to know I have known good components.
- Fuel filter(s). Again, replacement means you know what you have.
- Differential fluid replacement. You would be amazed at how many people do not do this on a regular basis. Replacing the fluid and removing the inspection cover (if equipped with one) is relatively simple, and a good way to check your ring and pinion for any damage.
And if you are wondering where I learned to do this, I worked for a Ford dealership in my youth, and learned from many old time mechanics what to do to determine how good a vehicle really was. They used to call this a "complete vehicle inspection".
#6
93f250tn,
Glad that the information is helping you out.
The compression test is one of the first things I always do when I purchase a "new to the fleet" vehicle, regardless of age or mileage. I know that you said the engine in this vehicle has 210k and was maintained, but 210k of stop and go city driving is more abusive to an engine than 210k of mainly highway cruising at speed. The compression test is the only way, without tearing down the engine, to determine the shape of the engine.
The compression leakdown test is only really recommended if you find a weak cylinder or all cylinders seem weak on the compression test. I usually do one just out of curiousity, so I know exactly what is going on with the engine internally.
Another thing that you could do is an oil analysis at the next oil change. This will tell you if there is any metal shavings in the oil, which is not a good thing to have.
Other things I am known to do on recently purchased vehicle:
- Full 4 wheel brake inspection. Remember, your life depends on these things working properly. I will also repack or replace 2WD front wheel bearings and replace seals at this time, since I am in the area. I prefer to inspect this when I get the vehicle, and annually thereafter.
- Suspension and steering system inspection. I will usually just take it to a known good alignment shop and have it aligned, but I also go through all the steering components myself. This is another system that many overlook until something fails. I prefer to inspect this when I get the vehicle, and annually thereafter.
- Coolant system flush. I just like to know what I have to work with, and a cooling system flush telly you just what the previous owner did or did not do for cooling system maintenance. Also, at this time, I will usually replace all cooling system hoses and the thermostat, just to be safe.
- Ignition system. I'll usually replace the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and coil just to know I have known good components.
- Fuel filter(s). Again, replacement means you know what you have.
- Differential fluid replacement. You would be amazed at how many people do not do this on a regular basis. Replacing the fluid and removing the inspection cover (if equipped with one) is relatively simple, and a good way to check your ring and pinion for any damage.
And if you are wondering where I learned to do this, I worked for a Ford dealership in my youth, and learned from many old time mechanics what to do to determine how good a vehicle really was. They used to call this a "complete vehicle inspection".
Glad that the information is helping you out.
The compression test is one of the first things I always do when I purchase a "new to the fleet" vehicle, regardless of age or mileage. I know that you said the engine in this vehicle has 210k and was maintained, but 210k of stop and go city driving is more abusive to an engine than 210k of mainly highway cruising at speed. The compression test is the only way, without tearing down the engine, to determine the shape of the engine.
The compression leakdown test is only really recommended if you find a weak cylinder or all cylinders seem weak on the compression test. I usually do one just out of curiousity, so I know exactly what is going on with the engine internally.
Another thing that you could do is an oil analysis at the next oil change. This will tell you if there is any metal shavings in the oil, which is not a good thing to have.
Other things I am known to do on recently purchased vehicle:
- Full 4 wheel brake inspection. Remember, your life depends on these things working properly. I will also repack or replace 2WD front wheel bearings and replace seals at this time, since I am in the area. I prefer to inspect this when I get the vehicle, and annually thereafter.
- Suspension and steering system inspection. I will usually just take it to a known good alignment shop and have it aligned, but I also go through all the steering components myself. This is another system that many overlook until something fails. I prefer to inspect this when I get the vehicle, and annually thereafter.
- Coolant system flush. I just like to know what I have to work with, and a cooling system flush telly you just what the previous owner did or did not do for cooling system maintenance. Also, at this time, I will usually replace all cooling system hoses and the thermostat, just to be safe.
- Ignition system. I'll usually replace the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and coil just to know I have known good components.
- Fuel filter(s). Again, replacement means you know what you have.
- Differential fluid replacement. You would be amazed at how many people do not do this on a regular basis. Replacing the fluid and removing the inspection cover (if equipped with one) is relatively simple, and a good way to check your ring and pinion for any damage.
And if you are wondering where I learned to do this, I worked for a Ford dealership in my youth, and learned from many old time mechanics what to do to determine how good a vehicle really was. They used to call this a "complete vehicle inspection".
#7
On the Seafoam treatment, I would have to say yes. Sounds like the combustion chambers were clean.
Another little thing I use is the "High Speed Tune Up". Basically what it involves is running the vehicle at operating temperature at freeway speed for an extended period of time, usually 100 plus miles at 55 to 75 MPH constant speed is a good start. This gets the engine working at operating temperature for a long period to clean out any stop and go deposits, cleans the injectors somewhat through rapid use for an extended period, and circulates fluids throughout the engine and drivetrain for an extended period. This was another of those "mechanics only tricks" that I learned from older mechanics who kept some classic cars at the time ('57 TBird, '63 Galaxie 427/425 HP) running like a top with over 100k miles. I usually do it right before I do an oil change, or other fluid flush, just like the old mechanics did that I learned this from.
Another little thing I use is the "High Speed Tune Up". Basically what it involves is running the vehicle at operating temperature at freeway speed for an extended period of time, usually 100 plus miles at 55 to 75 MPH constant speed is a good start. This gets the engine working at operating temperature for a long period to clean out any stop and go deposits, cleans the injectors somewhat through rapid use for an extended period, and circulates fluids throughout the engine and drivetrain for an extended period. This was another of those "mechanics only tricks" that I learned from older mechanics who kept some classic cars at the time ('57 TBird, '63 Galaxie 427/425 HP) running like a top with over 100k miles. I usually do it right before I do an oil change, or other fluid flush, just like the old mechanics did that I learned this from.
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