Masking and laying of flames help

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Old 09-23-2010, 08:46 AM
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Masking and laying of flames help

I did flames on my '47 PU and they didn't grow on me, so I'm starting over..

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...way-guide.html

Above is the project w/ picts.

The front is covered with black Ful-thane 2K (1-stage) which is 800g wet sanded. I had the Ful-thane, so that is what I used. I am getting ready to start the three layers of flames, and you guys are good, so I thought I'd get some seasoned advice.

1. Should I go beyond 800g before taping and masking? (using base-coat of the 'thane family followed by 2-3 coats of clear.) Worried about adherence, mostly.

2. Between flames should I feather the edge with 1500g or something stronger. (Don't want to hack the edge of flame.)

3. After flames are done, do I need to reverse mask to level before clear, or just block the multiple layers of clear. P.S. flames will not be real heavy, but not "ghost" either, except perhaps 1st layer. If reverse mask is recommended, should I use the ful-thane or clear?

I'm a gentle gorilla when blocking, so I don't often cut through, and I pay attention to what color the residue is...

Thanks

Please help with what I got, PLEASE don't go on a rant about brands of paint, etc.

p.s. will cut and buff at end 800/1500/2000/2 - 3M compounds/swirl
 
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Old 09-24-2010, 07:01 AM
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By all means, after your base/clear..wet-sand out any dirt nibs and excessive orange peel and prep the area for paint ..pay close attention to your tape line(the inside/division area), as anything that isn't smooth here.,,will only build and may get sanded thru to base later. I don't know what paint your using, but you need to be real comfortable making real lite passes,..the thinner/liter the better.Think color coverage only..keeping the paint coveage thin will help prevent a build-up at the tape edge and under/over the fine-line tape..resulting in tearing/cracking/pulling on removal.This job is where a good paintgun pays for itself because it will atomize the paint for the best coverage.Watch the pressure at the gun! When pulling the tape, always pull it away from/ onto itself to make as clean a break as possible.Some folks will use a smooth knife edge to fold down any high spots..again the less paint applied..the easier the tape will come up without pulling the paint.Clear coat.Wetsand.Spend some time smoothing the tape-line.Repeat....Experiment with a mailbox or two,..that's what I did.. Give them away as Christmas gifts..then paint the hood when you have a good feel for it..
Your 1st flame set looked to me like a combination of"shredded and Real Flames"..is that what your going for? Check out ;Got Paint?.com for a few ideas.Good Luck! And keep after it!..hope this helps.
 
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Old 09-24-2010, 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by COMPLIT1107
I did flames on my '47 PU and they didn't grow on me, so I'm starting over..

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...way-guide.html

Above is the project w/ picts.

The front is covered with black Ful-thane 2K (1-stage) which is 800g wet sanded. I had the Ful-thane, so that is what I used. I am getting ready to start the three layers of flames, and you guys are good, so I thought I'd get some seasoned advice.

1. Should I go beyond 800g before taping and masking? (using base-coat of the 'thane family followed by 2-3 coats of clear.) Worried about adherence, mostly.

2. Between flames should I feather the edge with 1500g or something stronger. (Don't want to hack the edge of flame.)

3. After flames are done, do I need to reverse mask to level before clear, or just block the multiple layers of clear. P.S. flames will not be real heavy, but not "ghost" either, except perhaps 1st layer. If reverse mask is recommended, should I use the ful-thane or clear?

I'm a gentle gorilla when blocking, so I don't often cut through, and I pay attention to what color the residue is...

Thanks

Please help with what I got, PLEASE don't go on a rant about brands of paint, etc.

p.s. will cut and buff at end 800/1500/2000/2 - 3M compounds/swirl

800 on the black is sufficient if the surface is perfectly flat.

I do all my colors very lightly .I will at times sand the edge of the stripe next to & on the tape ,to minimize film thickness
After removing the tape & I am satisfied with the edges, I clear coat the entire panel 1-2 coats .

After it is dry ,I block sand the entire work with 1000 -1200, & re shoot it with clear .

It leaves a very soft edge ..

BTW, I read your build thread . Nice work.

Determination will prevail ..

Also , sorry for the loss of your son ...
 
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Old 09-24-2010, 11:30 AM
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Thanks for the help (and thoughts).. It gives me some direction and moves me up a ladder rung from paint idiot to paint challenged !
 
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