AMSOIL BYPASS install thread.
#1
AMSOIL BYPASS install thread.
Few guys had asked about the setup, so here it is guys.
First, when you order the kit it comes with the adapter plate, 6' of hose, all the ends, the dual filter head unit, bracket to frame mount it and the standard 15 micron filter and bypass 2 micron filter. You have two options on oil change intervals. 1st being 20,000 miles. At 10k you change the 15 micron filter, at 20k you change the 15 micron filter, 2 micron filter and drop the oil. 2nd option is 25,000 mile change intervals. 12,500 miles you change the 15 micron filter, at 25k you change both filters and the oil.
Unit adds 2-3 quarts of oil as well, so you buy 4 gallons of oil, fill all but 2 quarts on initial fill. when you change your 15 micron filter you will add the 2 extra quarts to your system. initial price on the system, including the 3 filters and 4 gallons of oil is $475. Each 20k or 25k oil change will cost you $164 dollars. that includes 4 gallons of oil and 3 filters. Now, to the install!
Simply remove your oil filter, thread on the adapter plate (has a top plate gasket and a O ring for the center section). Next, take the supplied 1/2" i.d. cloth braided line in half. Fit the thread crimp lines on each of the 4 ends of the lines. Thread in the fittings to the head unit, then the lines to the fittings. Run the lines along the side of your frame, loop over the top of your frame rail and thread to the new filter head unit. Mark the frame for to drill for the mounting plate. Drill the frame, sandwich the filter head unit with the 2 supplied brackets and secure it to the frame. Thread the filters in, fill your system with 16 qts of your new amsoil synthetic oil.
Either unhook your IP solenoid wires or jump your starter solenoid to crank your engine without firing it to prime your new system. I suggest filling your 15 micron filter with oil before doing this. You do NOT need to prime your 2 micron filter, but you can. The filter head unit has a restrictor on it so you only get 10% of your oil flowing though the 2 micron filter.
If you pay $20 a year to join the amsoil club then you get dealer prices and save big time on all the items they sell. Its well worth it or if you want you can go though my account. Just pm me and i can get you hooked up. AMSOIL - Synthetic Oil, Motor and Engine Oil, Lubricants, Air Filters, Oil Filters and Greases
center section of the head unit
outer section of the head unit
filter head unit
adapter unit mounted on block
unit installed on engine with lines
lines running from engine to filter head
lines running over the frame to the unit
filter head unit mounted
Filter head unit complete!
First, when you order the kit it comes with the adapter plate, 6' of hose, all the ends, the dual filter head unit, bracket to frame mount it and the standard 15 micron filter and bypass 2 micron filter. You have two options on oil change intervals. 1st being 20,000 miles. At 10k you change the 15 micron filter, at 20k you change the 15 micron filter, 2 micron filter and drop the oil. 2nd option is 25,000 mile change intervals. 12,500 miles you change the 15 micron filter, at 25k you change both filters and the oil.
Unit adds 2-3 quarts of oil as well, so you buy 4 gallons of oil, fill all but 2 quarts on initial fill. when you change your 15 micron filter you will add the 2 extra quarts to your system. initial price on the system, including the 3 filters and 4 gallons of oil is $475. Each 20k or 25k oil change will cost you $164 dollars. that includes 4 gallons of oil and 3 filters. Now, to the install!
Simply remove your oil filter, thread on the adapter plate (has a top plate gasket and a O ring for the center section). Next, take the supplied 1/2" i.d. cloth braided line in half. Fit the thread crimp lines on each of the 4 ends of the lines. Thread in the fittings to the head unit, then the lines to the fittings. Run the lines along the side of your frame, loop over the top of your frame rail and thread to the new filter head unit. Mark the frame for to drill for the mounting plate. Drill the frame, sandwich the filter head unit with the 2 supplied brackets and secure it to the frame. Thread the filters in, fill your system with 16 qts of your new amsoil synthetic oil.
Either unhook your IP solenoid wires or jump your starter solenoid to crank your engine without firing it to prime your new system. I suggest filling your 15 micron filter with oil before doing this. You do NOT need to prime your 2 micron filter, but you can. The filter head unit has a restrictor on it so you only get 10% of your oil flowing though the 2 micron filter.
If you pay $20 a year to join the amsoil club then you get dealer prices and save big time on all the items they sell. Its well worth it or if you want you can go though my account. Just pm me and i can get you hooked up. AMSOIL - Synthetic Oil, Motor and Engine Oil, Lubricants, Air Filters, Oil Filters and Greases
center section of the head unit
outer section of the head unit
filter head unit
adapter unit mounted on block
unit installed on engine with lines
lines running from engine to filter head
lines running over the frame to the unit
filter head unit mounted
Filter head unit complete!
#3
#4
Great write up oreo, thanks!
Having those filters unguarded on the road conditions I drive on would make me nervous but it would be easy to fab up shield to protect them.
Seems to me it might be a good idea and a bit cheaper to switch to synthetic for a few thousand miles using the old filter and changing the filter every 1000 miles or so get all the sludge out of the engine before doing the relocation project and the more expensive filters.
Having those filters unguarded on the road conditions I drive on would make me nervous but it would be easy to fab up shield to protect them.
Seems to me it might be a good idea and a bit cheaper to switch to synthetic for a few thousand miles using the old filter and changing the filter every 1000 miles or so get all the sludge out of the engine before doing the relocation project and the more expensive filters.
#5
i dont, being as high as i am. but if you mount the filter on the passenger side then you can mount them a lot higher up in the frame. your limited on the drivers side because of the parking brake cable. but as stated above, building a quick shield would be easy as pie.
#6
ya, doin it every 10k or 12,500 total change is fine and still saves money, but why if the oil is still good and clean?. and when you change the 15 micron filter, you only loose the oil in the filter and the line. the rest of your oil is in your oil pan, not sitting high in your block. thats why you reserve the 2 qts to top your system back off. the only stoppers on the head unit are on the pass though ends. it allows you to run in one side, out the other OR run a second unit behind it. i was thinking about running a cooler before or after the filter unit.
#7
Great write up oreo, thanks!
Having those filters unguarded on the road conditions I drive on would make me nervous but it would be easy to fab up shield to protect them.
Seems to me it might be a good idea and a bit cheaper to switch to synthetic for a few thousand miles using the old filter and changing the filter every 1000 miles or so get all the sludge out of the engine before doing the relocation project and the more expensive filters.
Having those filters unguarded on the road conditions I drive on would make me nervous but it would be easy to fab up shield to protect them.
Seems to me it might be a good idea and a bit cheaper to switch to synthetic for a few thousand miles using the old filter and changing the filter every 1000 miles or so get all the sludge out of the engine before doing the relocation project and the more expensive filters.
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