koeo alternator humming /buzzing
#1
koeo alternator humming /buzzing
2003 f350 6.0l single alternator
Replaced alternator a couple weeks ago with one from napa, noticed a humming with key on and the engine off . Traced it to the alternator, called napa they said it was not normal come get a replacement, put the new one on same thing. Charging in the 13.5 to 14v range the case of the alternator seems to get hot quickly when running. Any6one with some thoughts on this?
Thanks
Replaced alternator a couple weeks ago with one from napa, noticed a humming with key on and the engine off . Traced it to the alternator, called napa they said it was not normal come get a replacement, put the new one on same thing. Charging in the 13.5 to 14v range the case of the alternator seems to get hot quickly when running. Any6one with some thoughts on this?
Thanks
#3
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#7
I have done some testing, my field voltage is the same as the battery voltage and this is wrong it should be between 1-3 volts until running and it suppose to go up to 9 volts. I have been tracing wires but it is a mess and I having a hard time at. I have found the the indicater bulb is blown and for what I ve read this can be the cause of high voltage (batt voltage) on the field voltage. I dont know if this will fixit. Im going to get a bulb. I have a pfd of the charging system but can not seem to get it to attach
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#10
#11
I agree my field voltage is off and I believe it is controlled in the instrument panel by the indictor bulb or bulb and a diod but I dont know for sure. My testing keeps bring back to the instrument panel. It costs close to 200.00 to have a expert try to fix it and a 2hr drive. My local wrecker is getting me another one for 200.00 same year amd month make, I hope it works
#12
I read your post wrong my field voltage is always battery voltage which is wrong it should be 1-3v koeo and 9v running I have no idea why my charging is at 14.5v and not higher. It could be Im using the wrong terms for voltages. on the alternator I get battery voltage at the post, battery voltage at the left wire on pigtail and battery voltage on the right wire at pigtail(this one should be1-3v) koeo
#13
The field voltage will not have a certain voltage when running. The field voltage will vary depending on the needed output of the alternator. The field is what the regulator uses to control the output of the alternator.
The signal from the instrument cluster is there only to bring the alternator "online" when the key is in run, so it won't discharge the battery with the key off.
You didn't have any trouble till you replaced the alternator correct? If so, I would suspect the alternator, even though they gave you another.
The signal from the instrument cluster is there only to bring the alternator "online" when the key is in run, so it won't discharge the battery with the key off.
You didn't have any trouble till you replaced the alternator correct? If so, I would suspect the alternator, even though they gave you another.
#14
I relaced the alternator because the first one would some times generate and sometimes not and lots of black on the case all the way around on the back half. I did not notice any humming before but that does not mean it wasnt there as it too a week to notice it with the first replacement alternator as I had been doing alot of testing with the key on,. My calling the wire from the instrument panel the field wire is my fault and my lack of proper terminology ...sorry Im going with the instrument panel put out to much voltage . and Im going to check and see if my alternator off my 93 7.3l will fit I know its good
#15
Alternator Buzzing or Humming with engine and ingnition off
I have solved my humming/ Buzzing problem on a 2003 Volkswagen New Beetle 2.0 AVH GLS 2dr Hatchback. I know it's not a FORD, but same issue could occur on one of my Fords. Humming was coming from the alternator, but I was not sure that it was caused my brand new Re-Manufactured alternator, as this new alt was putting out 14.38volts as it should, when the engine was running. But Alternator humming with the engine off and key out, was draining the brand new battery (02/16 WM MAXX 5yr) from 12.68v to 12.22 volts overnight. (tested over just one cool (say 45F) night.)
Took the Alt off and to local auto parts store to have checked out...It checked out as GOOD. However, they had not seen a humming Alt before. So we (me and five others) looked on as the boss used a jump start kit to energize the alt and it buzzed away. Also this caused the Non-Clutched pulley to not spin freely when energized, but smooth and free spinning when Not energized. The rectifier was suspect, but I believe that a diode soldered in place internally during RE-MANUFACTURING was/is the problem (part of the "Diode Trio".)
So I left parts store with a new $200 Ultima 90amp Alt. + $46 core and my Eb@y Re-man, $100 90amp, no-core chg, batt. killing, pos. The guys at the store did not rub it in about my bad online order.
External temp using inferred "laser" of the cheaper bad Alternator=165 F exterior housing and 205 F interior windings. New Ultima Alt = 75F exterior and 83F interior, all tested when engine running @ idle and block at 156F. Bad Alternator Running HOT and putting out 14.31 volts.
As a side note; The bolts on the back of the bad Alt were switched (longer one on B+2 instead of B+1) which it does not matter for power purposes (come from the exact same source/inner frame pwr block of alternator,) just getting the Battery wire to hook up was a stretch.
In testing the smaller two wires (called field and sensing wires) on both alternator's rectifiers (not from the cars wiring harness connector plugs, but on the Alternators plug socket themselves, alt installed on car and B+1 Cable to Batt Pos. connected) while installed on car, engine off, key out, doors closed. I was getting 11.67volts FIELD (with ignition OFF, Key out,That's BAD) and 4.42volts Sensing wire (Bad again) when the replaced alternator is now giving me 0.01volts Field and 12.33volts Sensing wire. The previous numbers have been reviewed, are correct and have not been transposed or mislabeled.
I know its a long post. It is my first post. I spent over a week thinking my issue was electrical shorts in wiring harness, relays, Pwr control Module (PCM) anything and everything BUT a NEWLY purchased and yet BAD ALTERNATOR. Very little online about the subject.
I hope this helps someone.
BD
Understanding Alternators. What is an Alternator and How Does It Work
Took the Alt off and to local auto parts store to have checked out...It checked out as GOOD. However, they had not seen a humming Alt before. So we (me and five others) looked on as the boss used a jump start kit to energize the alt and it buzzed away. Also this caused the Non-Clutched pulley to not spin freely when energized, but smooth and free spinning when Not energized. The rectifier was suspect, but I believe that a diode soldered in place internally during RE-MANUFACTURING was/is the problem (part of the "Diode Trio".)
So I left parts store with a new $200 Ultima 90amp Alt. + $46 core and my Eb@y Re-man, $100 90amp, no-core chg, batt. killing, pos. The guys at the store did not rub it in about my bad online order.
External temp using inferred "laser" of the cheaper bad Alternator=165 F exterior housing and 205 F interior windings. New Ultima Alt = 75F exterior and 83F interior, all tested when engine running @ idle and block at 156F. Bad Alternator Running HOT and putting out 14.31 volts.
As a side note; The bolts on the back of the bad Alt were switched (longer one on B+2 instead of B+1) which it does not matter for power purposes (come from the exact same source/inner frame pwr block of alternator,) just getting the Battery wire to hook up was a stretch.
In testing the smaller two wires (called field and sensing wires) on both alternator's rectifiers (not from the cars wiring harness connector plugs, but on the Alternators plug socket themselves, alt installed on car and B+1 Cable to Batt Pos. connected) while installed on car, engine off, key out, doors closed. I was getting 11.67volts FIELD (with ignition OFF, Key out,That's BAD) and 4.42volts Sensing wire (Bad again) when the replaced alternator is now giving me 0.01volts Field and 12.33volts Sensing wire. The previous numbers have been reviewed, are correct and have not been transposed or mislabeled.
I know its a long post. It is my first post. I spent over a week thinking my issue was electrical shorts in wiring harness, relays, Pwr control Module (PCM) anything and everything BUT a NEWLY purchased and yet BAD ALTERNATOR. Very little online about the subject.
I hope this helps someone.
BD
Understanding Alternators. What is an Alternator and How Does It Work
Last edited by BrianDF150; 03-28-2016 at 10:52 AM. Reason: mispelling
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