The 2v V10 does not have an EGR valve. In the above Pic, i believe number 6 is the IAC bypass.

If it were mine, I guess the next step would be spark plugs. While plugs should last longer than 30k miles...sometimes they don't. A bad plug or plugs good operate at normal to mid level RPM's fine and not be able to accommodate higher RPM's. while also not missing enough to throw a code.

If these are the original plugs, it would also be a good time to make sure their all still good and tight. I won't recommend a torque value, for fear of derailing your thread into another argument! lets just say mine are TIGHT compared to factory specs.

 

I would try to find some way to monitor the O2 sensor output so you can see how it reads. An intake air leak is probably a good suspect. You can check that by spraying solvent around suspect leak areas. When you find a big leak the solvent will change the engine RPM or at least plugging the leak will. Try restricting air flow by blocking off part of the air cleaner inlet. This may make the leak worse and make the pinging worse because you are increasing the amount of air that is bypassing the MAF. If the pinging gets better then the MAF is not compensating for less air. If the fuel system is working like it should then you must have an air leak or defective air flow, air temp sensors or the computer is not adjusting the mixture. Have you ever used a programmer on the truck?

Perry

 

Some years the 2V 6.8l had an EGR valve.

My first thought is bad gas or water contaminated gas. Over the last 10 weeks there have been quite a few temperature changes and it could have built up condensation.May be a good idea to replace the plugs and boots.(Or at least look at them if the fuel is ok) Even though the mileage is low the plugs are probably original and there may be something wrong with one of them. My uncle had the same syptoms in his truck the other week and it turned out to be one bad plug, ground bar burned completely off but the rest were ok.

When the cold air comes my truck always gets more knock sensitive mainly when lugged in OD. High rpm detonation is definatley a no no and can cause damage. I have a suspicion that the ethanol content was upped in the gas in my area also.

 

Thanks for all the good responses so far guys.
I'll address some of the suspects below.

I know its not the actual fuel anymore, I have run numerous tanks of both premium and regular through it. the funny think is the premium doesn't help at all, so that leads me to believe its not as timing related as it is fueling or fuel delivery.

Interesting that so many people have pointed to spark plugs.
They are original.
I was planning on short changing them around 50K,,, but never would have suspected at 30K.
In 32 years of being a gear head and racer type, I "personally" have never had a spark plug induce a ping or power loss "if it was the correct plug".
I have seen too hot plugs do that, but not the correct ones,,, and remember this "just started" after the truck sat for 6 weeks. It didnt gradually happen, so my gut is telling me its not plugs (but its worth checking since so many suspect them and I will do it).

I talked to the guys at 5 Star about a programmer.
The truck is bone stock and has never had a programmer used on it.
It always ran perfectly and had enough power for me, so I never even considered one.

The tech I talked to at 5 Star seems convinced I have a fuel delivery issue.
He pointed to possible clogging of the fuel pump intake sock (strainer).
He noted that would read acceptable at idle for pressure and delivery volume, but would be like running with a scarf over your mouth at higher loads and RPMS.
Thoughts?
Anyone ever seen a fuel pump sock clogged at 30K miles on a gas truck?

My pinging is higher (2500 and up) RPM. I can lug the crap out of the truck with no pinging. Its when I get the throttle opened up and the rpms up that it pings.

I think I am leaning towards biting the bullet and dropping the tank and getting a look in there and at that point weather it needs it or not, putting a fuel pump and fresh strainer in there since dropping the tank is such a PITA.

Tomorrow I am going to change the PCV valve just because,,, I was browsing the sites stickies and some people have reported it to be a problem.

I love the suggestions guys, thanks for the help.
The sparkplug thing has really surprised me that so many seem to be looking there.
I'll have a look.
Cheers
jimmy p

 

How would one do this while driving? Is there a scan tool or programmer that does this?

I was thinking of trying this, a proven old tool.
The shop who had it smoke tested it though and said no vacuum leaks.
I wonder if that is as good as the old carb cleaner trick?


I was wondering about INtake Air Temp.
Has anyone ever had an Intake Air Temp sensor die?
If so what happens. I have thought of this, but assumed it would code.

I have never used a programmer on the truck.
Its 100% stock.

Has anyone ever had a computer just stop working?
I thought about this as well.
Can the Ford Engine Mgt computer just stop working, but the truck still run?
In other words can it "lose its tuning"???

Thanks for some good ideas
Cheers
jimmy

 

Fords 100k mile plug change interval should be cut in half to 50k miles.

The SCT X3 like 5 Star sells is capable of datalogging and monitoring what the various sensors on the truck are doing. If you have any questions about it Mike could fill you in.

I have the same year truck as you bought new in PA and it has no EGR. Your truck should have no EGR system on it if it was bought new in PA. An easy way to double check is to look for a tube that is screwed into the front of the top side of the drivers side exhaust manifold. The non egr manifolds have a boss but it is not tapped for the EGR tube.

I never had issues with an intake air temp sensor. On your year truck the intake temp sensor is integrated into the MAF sensor housing if memory serves me correctly. Some of the older 6.8l trucks had a seperate IAT sensor that was located on the intake tube.

 

Get a Scangage or something like it. Mine measures air temp using the intake sensor and it is pretty darn accurate. I think you will know pretty quick if the sensor is bad. There may also be a throttle position sensor that tells the engine what the throttle opening is. You may have a bad connection to a good sensor. A Scangage can measure anything the PCM can see. Usually when a PCM goes bad you will be dead in the water. The Scanguage can tell you what the air/fuel ratio is or at least tell you if it is lean or rich.

Perry

 

By your description, my first guess is ALSO fuel delivery. No pinging at low RPM but pings above 2500? Something is leaning it out. Plugged fuel filter or sock, fuel pump issues, injector isssues, or as mentioned MAF or temp sending issues. I think a leaking manifold would ping as low rpm also, plus the smoke tests are pretty reliable.
Being that it happend when sitting, I would check the grounds on the pump, Maybe its good enough to work low speed, but cant handle the amps when the flow increases?

 

I just bought an Innova 3130 Code reader and it has live data that reads the o2 sensor output, iac temp, and many other pid's. It does not read the fuel pressure which i would like it to but other than that it is a great help . It comes with pc software and lets you record live data on it and look at it on your pc or laptop. my v-10 has the egr valve and it is easy to tell if it is working you just put a long vacuum hose on the vacuum fitting for it and suck while the engine is running. Watch out for the motor fan, no loose clothing and if you have long hair be careful!! When you suck on the vacuum fitting the truck will almost die if the valve is working. When you release the vacuum it will go immediately back to normal idle. I guess you could use a vacuum pump if you have one but that takes all the fun and danger out of it.

 

Hey Guys,
Thanks for some more great suggestions.
I guess its time to get a code reader.

Can anyone tell me if the reader / data function of the 5 Star tuner unit mentioned above does the same as a code reader (plus having the alternate tunes?)?

If so, maybe its worth buying that instead of just a reader, as in my quick look around the internet at the models posted above all the readers seem to be near $200.
If the 5 Star does the same reading and also offers the ability to upload tunes (after I fix the issue at hand) it would seem like the way to go.

Thanks again for keeping throwing great ideas at me.
I greatly appreciate it.
Cheers
jimmy

 

Hi Jimmy
Thanks for the call yesterday, Randy is whom you talked too. How long does your truck sit at a time? Reading about your issue and talking with Randy it sounds either fuel system del issue at WOT and if it is an issue the factory programming also stinks at del fuel at WOT until its tuned , the 2 issues can be a compound problem. Also the X3 does same thing as a code reader can read / list out description of code and clear code and as mentioned can be used to data log 400+ PIDS...

Mike

 

[quote=Jimmy Pet;9701024]
There is some bacteria that can live and on fuel. If the truck dose sit for some time, they will link together and can clog the strainer. I has this happen to me before. Had to drop the tank and steam clean it, to get them all out. Even putting fresh fuel in the tank will not remove them and all you are doing is feeding them better food.

 

I know you only have 30K, but is there any possibility of a carbon build up? I.e., the truck only sat for 6 weeks, but maybe a tank of gas lasts you a couple of months?

 

[QUOTE=eh60a;9703609]Wow, I have never heard of that. Certainly could be possible.

My truck can sit anywhere from 2-3 weeks to 2-3 months depending on my work schedule.

I am doubting carbon buildup, as it came on so sudden.
I would expect that to come on gradually.
Plus, I dont drive it lightly. When I drive it, Im frequently towing an enclosed car trailer 75+ mph.

Even so,,, we went after it and did a top end clean and no change.

I tried to borrow a code reader today, but the guy who had a small hand held one said it would not monitor things in real time as you guys have been saying.
He said all it can do is read codes and clear codes.
I see two of you guys use either the Scangauge, or Inova 3130.

Neither of those are available at my local stores.
Are there any other specific ones that can do what you were saying?

Me personally,,,
I think its time to drop the tank...
Something happened while it was sitting,,, either the fuel pump corroded, flesh eating bacteria are clogging my fuel pump screen,,, some kid poured sand in there (doubt it but I guess anything is possible),,, or a mouse got up there and chewed through a fuel pump wire... In any case, I aint finding it or fixing it with the tank in the truck as it is.

I just drove it again today. The thing just will not rev, or pull,,, and it used to rev like crazy (as all you V10ers know).
My truck used to spin the DRW empty (4.30 gears).
Now it just slowly pulls away when I hammer it,,, then starts pinging at 2500 rpm.
I'm thinking,,, it feels like no fuel to the fire.

I'm going to bite the bullet, drop the tank and have a look see, change the plugs just because and afterwards order up a 5 Star tuner and Y pipe,,, just because well it sounds like there is almost no downside to it and it can also act as a diagnostic tool.

You guys have until Monday to talk me out of it haha with some brilliant idea...
Cheers
jimmy

 

Autozone has the ScangaugeII. I have never heard of bugs growing in gasoline but it is common in diesel fuel.

Perry