I am planning on converting from the manual lift pump to an electric one on my 1989 F250 7.3L IDI. I have purchased a NAPA electric pump rated at 4 - 6 PSI and 34 GPM.

My plan is to locate and fasten the electric lift pump to the existing manual pump, using a 90 degree fitting to screw the existing fuel line going to the fuel filter. The fuel line running down the frame has a rubber fuel line attaching it to the manual lift pump, I will be replacing the rubber fuel line and attaching it to inlet side of the electric pump. I am planning on using a 40 amp circuit breaker with the trigger wire being the FSS wire.

I am planning on blocking off both side of the old manual lift pump but plan on leaving it in place. I will effectively have bypassed the manual pump.

I guess I need to know if this plan will work or should I find another spot on the frame closer to the tanks between the FSV and the existing lift pump that I will be bypassing.

I would appreciate any and all suggestions, I would rather do it right the first time.

hugger94

 

closer to the fss. pumps are better at pushing then pulling.

 

theres a mr gasket pump that works well from what i have heard. I have the stock gasser intank pumps still working from when the PO installed the diesel swap about two years ago. They overpower the system though and you either need good relief system or a fuel pressure regulator which is easy enough to find. Right where the FSV is would be a great spot to mount it to the frame. Just my exp and opinion.

oh and why leave the pump in place? as a backup or just because you dont know about the chrome block off plates that are 5 bucks from nearly every auto parts store? just get the big block plate, they will know what you mean.

 

You can take out the old pump and use a block off plate from a 460 to cover the hole.

2nd you want the pump as close to your tanks as possible, i put mine about 1 foot in front of the tank valve.

3rd I cut the line comin down from the filter so it just came straight down instead of curving into the old pump, then used a piece of rubber to connect the two, dont forget to flair them.

i used a holley red pump, dont know how well 3-4 psi will do when you put your foot in it.

i used a splicing kit for the nylon fuel line cut it and put the splice in then connecting rubber line to it and onto the pump, i ran copper line from there out though.

 

didnt notice he was gonna leave the lift pump there. dont do that! if it fails its gonna fill your crank case with fuel. thats no good man

 

yeah i would have gone with 7-9 psi like that mr gasket one. Sorry but i cant for the life of me remember the part number.

 

he said the pump is 3-6psi. more then likely its closer to 6. but psi means nothing if the gpm isnt there. even if the pump was 2000 psi, it means jack of its only 2gpm. iirc 7psi is where the factory lift pump is, not sure about the flow rating though. might wanna look into that before selecting your new e pump

 

I like the rotary fuel pumps myself, those "pulse" pumps dont quite make me sure of how long they will last, solenoid pump i think is what they are.

 

the stock pump flows 1/3 pint of fuel in 10 seconds of cranking.......not sure what that translates into for gpm.....

 

that would be 1 quart per minute. But that is a cranking speed so i dont know about when its running or at operating rpm.

 

The factory manual lift pump flows about 35GPH at 5-7PSI ...

He plans on bypassing the manual lift pump, no fuel through it, no need to remove it, though it would be a good idea.

The Mr. Gasket 12D (Green) would be a good pump choice.
It is designed exactly for this purpose!

A solenoid pump will last longer then a vane or gear pump, vane and gear pumps flow to much for the system and will cause them to burn up prematurely without an additional regulated bypass.

A vane or gear pump is an electric motor ... A solenoid pump is just that, a solenoid that moves a diaphragm, if it hits a dead head, it will just set there until it can move fuel again without burning up, they are designed to pump against a dead head!

If a vane or gear pump hits a dead head it will stop the motor and burnt it up!
Some vane/gear pumps do have internal bypasses to prevent this, not all!

"Dead head" means flow has stopped! (not flowing as much as the pump should be)
Not something that should be possible with these motors, however the fact that they are only designed to flow about 35GPH, vane/gear pumps typically flow a lot more then 35GPH so it will essentially see a dead head, thus spinning it's vane or gear in fuel, cavitating, recirculating or stopped all of which will burn it up!

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

that napa pump sounds right.
make sure its rated for diesel fuel.if it has a small fuel filter like the mr gasket does,be sure to ditch that asap.

the block off plate required is actually a small block 289/302/ big block 454 chevy plate.

there's no purpose of having your cam spin that stock pump anymore.ditch it,for less resistance since it will become null.

"The Mr. Gasket 12D (Green) would be a good pump choice."

so far so good.
12k miles or so.
make sure its the green one.not the black one.12D like Festus states,if you find out the one at napa is gas rated only.
and make sure to remove that little filter and replace it with a barbed hose fitting.
if not,the seals wont last (if use the black one) and if you dont remove that tiny filter,it will become plugged very quickly and burn the pump up (i didn't need to learn this the hard way.it's tiny and pre-main filter.two and two together reasoning.)
never run the tank dry,and the little sucker hopefully goes a while.for the price,i figured id try it.
kinda sounds like that napa pump is is a rebadged mr gasket based on them specs.
ask 'em.they'll tell ya who makes it.my local store guys there always tell me.

 

I have already purchased the NAPA Posi-flo # 610-1050 Mfr for Balkamp, Inc.. The spec's are 4-7 PSI, 32 GPH or 120 LPH, and it states its compatible with all fuel additives, two wire self priming. I will specifically ask them if it is rated for Diesel before I install it.

I have purchased two compression fittings to attach to the fuel lines and allow me to screw the male ends into both the inlet and outlet ports, and I was hoping that I wouldn't need to use the inline filter that came with it, as I was a little concerned as well after reading some other postings on here.

I am planning on tapping into the FSS wire to trigger the circuit breaker to provide the power to run the pump.

I will probably not get around to installing this electric lift pump until the first of the week... Football games, etc this weekend.

Thanks for everyones input.

hugger94

 

Do you mean trigger a relay from the FSS power ???

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

Yeap! thats what I was trying to say. The FSS wire will be used to activate the relay that powers the electric pump, so any time the FSS wire is hot the electric pump will be on.

hugger94