6.0L Power Stroke Diesel2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van
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Early mornings r getting a little cool lately.But it would seem I have no hot air. A/C works fine and the heater worked fine last year. I tried to fine a fuse that was for the heater but could not find a specific one for it. Blower, defrost, etc.. all good. Any idea on a 2007' 6.0? Yes warranty just went out. Also interested in making my turbo whistle louder. Any ideas there?
Check the vaccuum line on the heater core coolant flow control which is above the passenger valve cover inline with the heater core feed lines. It should be a grey vacuum line that just plugs into the front of it.
As far as making turbo whistle more, you could dump the cat and/or muffler and you'll hear it more.
2003 Ford Excursion Limited 4x4 6.8L V10
MODS: V/B mod w/stock blocks, Rancho 9000's all around
WANTS: 5 star tune, "Y" pipe, exhaust
Dittos on what he said about the heater. After truck warms up check both sides of the heater flow valve hose connections to see if they are both hot. If not you probably have a bad valve or bad vacuum source. Check the plastic lines for cracks. Overtime they become very brittle. If you have a brake bleeder (hand vacuum pump) connect it to the valve to see if it moves. If not you probably have a vacuum leak or the vacuum pump has failed. I assume there is a fuse or relay for it.
Concerning the turbo whistle, I removed the cat and left the stock exhaust in place. Got slightly more whistle and reduced turbo lag. Next installed a 4" MBRP T-Back with no cat. Got a lot of whistle and no turbo lag.
04 X LTD: 4X4, 6.0L, ROUSH Airbox, TAG, X3/Custom Tunes, Auto Meter EGT, FP & Boost Pilar Gauges, ARP Studs, NT EGR Cooler/Exhaust Flow Deleted, Zoodad, MBRP T-Back (No Cat), Bilstiens, Hawks, DBA Cryos Front, Prodigy, Remote Start, Fuel X Over Line, AD 2, Banjo Bolt Mod, PML Tranny Pan, Coolant Filter, 160 AMP Alt Upgrade, Red-Head Steering Gear, Landyot Radius Rods, Firestone Air Bags, Mag-Hytech Diff Covers, 2nd CCV Line, Russell SS Brake Hoses, Ed's FICM Update, RP Synthetic Lubricants, AR 9100 Friction Modifier.
I agree with checking the heater control valve. However, that valve is normally open, and it takes vacuum to close it. So the problem will not be a missing vacuum line. Check it anyway, and make sure it is open.
I see you have had cooling system work in July, including a new coolant filter. Are you using the supplied dieselsite filter without any modification? The coolant filter does rob some of the flow from the heater core. But it should be a very small amount.
Folks call me Bill. Why, yes, it is a 6 liter. Your jealousy is showing.
I'm assuming you all removed the cat your self ? I pretty sure here in Arkansas the muffler shop will not do it. Or at least they would not on the (cover ur ears) 2500HD I had. So if this is done I have no need to change out turbo? After I put my programmer on I was told to go with a bigger exhaust for more power. Thanks for heater help. I've never had any work done though on my coolant system.
I have had this problem with the heater not working in my 2004 excursion. It started with the rear heater getting cold and by the next day the front heater would have no heat. The problem was that my EGR was blown and water was evaporating, the heater in the rear has heater core lines a couple inches higher than the front so it went first. needless to say I have been through 2 6.0 engines and the second one had studs, fire rings, strait exhause, intake, no chip, EGR delete, and cyl #4 has no compression. I now have a 12 valve to put in it. Everyone wins at 21 sometimes, I just lost twice in a row on this rig. Turbo whistle........ get a 2003 turbo!!!! I have one Ill see ya. Less fan blades = more boost and whistle. I could hit 43lbs with it
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