im really considering going this rough, i have been thinking about it alot lately if you have done this i have alot of Q's for you... for instance will i be able to re-use the original connecting rods? would that make the black off balance? would myD2TE-AA handle the extra cubs, would they need to be ported? valve job?
i would be taking my truck on the weekends on tails n mud n such for good fishing spots let me know buds..

 

I bought my .060 over as a professionally built short-block. I haven't had any trouble with with it being off balance. For my cylinder heads I'm running the Edelbrock 428 Cobra Jet aluminum heads, part # 60069. I don't have any problems with it over-heating, but remember a .060 over block is nearing the end of it's life. Why do you want a .060 over anyway? A .030 over would be fine and probably last longer too.

OJ

 

.060 maybe, .60 no. The FE FAQ suggests a sonic check for anything over .030 the way I read it.

http://www.clubfte.com/users/ratsmoker/FAQ.html

Rods can be reused. All the new pistons will weigh the same amount. You may wish to have everything balanced to a closer tolerence if you are doing a performance build.

The block has nothing to do with balance, it's the rotating assembly, see above.

Your heads will be fine for up to a moderate performance build. If you are going farther, you may wish to looking into a port and polish job. Don't forget the valve guides (check at least) and valve seals, and new springs if you are putting in a cam good for more than 4000 rpm.

Trail work would probably like a low end torquer, so maybe an RV or other "low end torque" cam grind.

Also, please take an extra 30 seconds on your posts and use maybe spell check to clean it up a bit....just a suggestion.

 

mybad on the spelling i have been out of it for the past couple of days ill tipple check, but if one or two gets out there you can work with me on that part i'd appreciate it..
OJ i am jealous hahaha, i was thinking about just going .030 over before i posted, but
the sound of a 402 w/ cj ported cylinder heads sounded really good hahaha typical right.. i was reading that a .060 over FE runs better then a .030.
a 396 doesn't sound too bad either, but other then a RV cam what would you suggest? i don't know to much about durations or lifts..
i can't wait to start working on the ol'girl again thanx for the response OJ

 

Do whatever you need to to clean the bores and don't go further. The extra cubes don't make a whole hill of beans

As for the balance question, with new pistons, get it all balanced anyway. There's nothing worse than a thrown-together engine in terms of vibration. I should know, I've done it. That was the first 390 I did. The second I had balanced and it ran like glass (if glass could run).

 

http://www.doveengineparts.com/

Good reading about over bore

 

Don't do any more overbore than necessary- the two or three cubes aren't gonna make any difference, and that's not the point of boring an engine anyway. That said, I had my block sonic checked and bored .060" it runs great, I've driven it daily since May of '09. The balance is well worth the money (it doesn't cost that much anyway if you're having the crank machined).

 

I thought I should dust off this old thread because I recently measured the bore..well the ridge my block and its 4.082 so the ol FE was bored .030 over a wile ago and being that there is ridge, I have 2 choices .040 or .060. I would like to use the H395P pistons.
hypothetically speaking to save a couple bucks if I can, I was wondering it I reamed the ridge and then honed the bores would that suffice and use the .040 pistons.. unlikely right?

 

You will want it bored and finish honed to fit the oversize pistons. You need an additional .010 plus whatever clearance you need for those pistons. You can't get that right with a ridge reamer and a hone.

 

shane your block has already been bored .030 that means you might be able to go another .030 for a total of .060 if your cylinders have enough meat. you need to have the shop sonic check the block .

 

We've got one .060 over in the shed.

 

I have been building FE blocks for street and racing since the mid 60's. It all depends on your cylinder walls. Have them sonic tested. I have two 428 blocks now that went from the stock 4.13 to 4.17 and turn 7000 rpm at the track. 602 hp (dyno) normally aspirated. I have used 100 hp nitrous with no problems.
The main reason us racers want larger bores, is for valve relief, and cubic inches.
For stock truck applications, you can add cubic inches with a longer stroke and keep your bore close to stock.

There are a few 390 blocks that can be safely bored to 4.13 which is the stock 428 bore. That is .08 over a stock 4.05 bore 390. Most become heaters.