Well did the dreaded ball joint replacement today. Wasn't as bad as I thought just time consuming.This is for a RWD Truck.

Some tools needed
5/8",15mm,17mm,18mm,15/16 wrenches
5/16" 1/4"drive 1 1/8" 1/2" drive
PryBar,Brass Hammer,Needle Nose Plyers

Ok Lets get started, Jack truck up remove wheels and put on jack stands

Sepperate your brake and abs lines.

Remove your brake caliper and support it on the Ibeam brace.

Remove brake shoes.

Remove brake caliper braket.

Remove Rotor

Next remove this metel peice.

Now remove ABS sensor.

Put up with caliper.

Remove TieRod end. On passenger side you may need turn wheel to right to get tierod out of mount.(This is were the Brass Hammer comes into play)

Now remove top bolt that holds top ball joint and pry out the sleve that is in there. Remember to mark where the slot is located on the knuckle.

Now remove the nut on the lower ball joint and nock the ball joint out
(Again the Brass Hammer).

What you will have on the floor under your Truck when everything is removed.

Now replace your ball joints. (I took my knuckles to were I work and used there Hyd. Press worked great!! (sorry no pics.)


Now put everything back togeather and your done.

Repeat for other side. (I did both sides togeather because I was going to use the press at work.) I also cleaned and repacked my wheel bearings while I was in there.
Hope this is understandable and helps somebody later on.

 

Nice write up and pick Richard thanks!

 

Nice write up with pics.. I love it..

 

Nice write up, and pictures. Is it necessary to remove that camber or caster sleeve (whatever it's called). Other write ups don't mention that, only to be careful and make sure it doesn't get moved from it's position. Same job coming up on my truck this week.

 

Awsome...Thanks Richard. Ball joints are next on my list.
This will be a huge help. Reps sent

 

I don't guess so. Just made everything so much easier just marked it so I would know were it went. After I got one out I looked it over real good couldn't really see anything special about it. No tapers internal or external, The tab on the out side goes in the groove were the bolt goes to hold the ball joint in. The only thing I did notice is the hole is off center.

 

Thanks, that's the purpose of the off center, to get the camber or caster angle, I forget which.

 

Here's a vido I found on the caster/camber sleeve.

YouTube - Ford Truck Sleeves

 

Thanks a lot for that! Very interesting.

 

Ditto the thanks from everyone else! After doing brake pads, rotors, 1 caliper, inner and outer tie rod ends, I now get to do ball joints. This will come in handy real soon. Again thanks for the greay write up.

 

I actually just made a post about doing mine and was looking for any tips/tricks/hints/etc. Although mines a 4x4 and a little different I got the idea.

But a quick question for all you guys, noticing your camber/caster sleeve isn't adjustable, I went out to check mine. I have the flat side that rests against the ledge but it too, isn't adjustable. Anyone know if the replacement sleeves in that video are worth getting so its fully adjustable? I would imagine with bigger tires and lifts it would have to be adjusted, yes/no?

 

Very good writeup, can't have enough of them, reps sent..

 

Wow really surprised to see this one come back. Thanks for all the comments.

 

Any latest word on napa vs. Advanced ball joints?
Napas are $86 for all four
Advanced are $125 all four
That threw me for a loop!

 

I got mine at O'Rileys, they said the cheap store brand ones were junk, so I bought the Moogs with grease fittings. IIRC they were around $30 a piece.