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Old 08-28-2010, 04:51 PM
pjeitler pjeitler is offline
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7 pin FICM repair

Thanks for all the contribution to this forum. It has helped me fix my cold start problem. I wanted to share my experience and hopefully help someone else.
I have a '03 F250 with the 6.0 PSD with 130k miles on it. Last week the truck started to idle really rough when I first started it in the morning. After a few minutes it would clear up and run ok. Subsequent starts were ok. And when I say it idled rough I mean the whole truck was shaking like crazy. After some searching on the various forums I thought I'd unplug the EGR valve but I didn't help. I pulled it today just to be sure it wasn't clogged up - it had some black stuff on it but no gunk. Cleaned with carb cleaner, got a new o-ring kit from the dealer and reinstalled. Next check was the FICM. Checked the voltage with the ignition on and it showed 48 V. Per the forum posts I knew that the engine needed to be cold, however.
This morning I went out and had some help running the ignition so I could check the voltages.
I have the 7 pin FICM so the positive lead of the meter goes to the left screw on the row with 4 pins (towards the passenger side). With the ignition on, but not running I showed 48 V. When cranking the engine it dropped to 17V and when it ran it was around 23-25 V. You are supposed to have a 48 V all the time. Mentally preparing myself for shelling out several hundred $$$ for a new FICM I pressed on.
I remove the FICM and disassembled. I looked at the high voltage module but I couldn't find any loose solder connections. I decided to resolder anyway since it was already taken apart. The only instructions I could find online were for the 4 pin FICM, but I found one post that said all of the solder connections were the same, just the front side resistors are in a different spot. These resistors are labeled Dale R0075.
I dabbed some rosin flux on all the required spots and resolderd. I have a pretty good soldering station and I got my soldering skills from modding old game consoles. Soldering the FICM was easy in comparison.
Then I reassembled the unit and installed, crossed my fingers and checked voltages. 48V on every scenario. Put everything back together and took for a test ride. Truck started right up and idled smoothly.
Final test will be tomorrow when the truck is cold again, but I feel pretty comfortable that it will still work.

Thanks DrQuad and his great post on FICM repair. It helped me tremendously.

I hope this post will help someone with the 7 pin FICM.

Update: Tested this morning with the engine cold and it started right up and ran smooth. Cold start problem fixed.

Last edited by pjeitler; 08-29-2010 at 07:19 AM. Reason: Update
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Old 08-29-2010, 04:23 AM
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Thanks for posting your good experience.

I just hope everyone remembers this is a "last ditch effort" to save yourself several $$$ by doing this repair. Sometimes it works sometimes it doesn't.
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Old 09-22-2010, 02:08 AM
volvoczesci volvoczesci is offline
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hi if i send you foto my fcim on 7 screw in side can you mark what i do ?
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Old 09-22-2010, 06:24 AM
pjeitler pjeitler is offline
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Sure, send me the pictures.
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Old 12-05-2010, 01:23 AM
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I hope you get this. I am running into the same issue with the idle. now I do out and the truck won't start hot or cold and I have it plugged in. Should this be the first place I look?
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Old 12-05-2010, 08:05 AM
pjeitler pjeitler is offline
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Its easy enough to measure the voltage on the FICM that it's a good place to start. If your voltages are 48V than you'll need to look elsewhere.
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Old 12-05-2010, 08:44 AM
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Checking tomorrow
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Old 12-05-2010, 12:31 PM
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Wow, cool post, awesome job on the fix. Would you send me a copy of those photos too? Superbikecj@gmail.com

Thanks!
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Old 12-09-2010, 10:23 AM
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Ok, I have read a few post on repairing these FICM's and the test pin is on a 4 pin is the one closest the the fender when it is still mounted, is this correct???? and on the seven pin it is on the opposite side, to the passenger side it the row of 4 pins, correct??? Is the repair the same 4 or 7 pin FICM's??
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Old 01-24-2012, 09:04 PM
deejay0380 deejay0380 is offline
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okay so mine left me stranded and it's a 7 pin i had it apart the other day and re soldered the main post i didn't know that it was basically the whole thing that needed solder. so wish me luck!!!
Oh and thank you everyone that has gone through this... it's frustrating when you have no idea and people are tossing $500 part in your face..
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Old 01-27-2012, 06:54 PM
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Note that while re-soldering works in some cases, it doesn't work in a whole lot of others as npccpartsman said.

Directions for the voltage testing can be found on the FAQ page of ficmrepair.com.

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Old 01-28-2012, 04:45 PM
deejay0380 deejay0380 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5030tinkerer View Post
Note that while re-soldering works in some cases, it doesn't work in a whole lot of others as npccpartsman said.

Directions for the voltage testing can be found on the FAQ page of ficmrepair.com.

Ed
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That maybe.... but it worked for me... burnin diesel as we speak
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Old 08-28-2013, 06:06 PM
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I repaired my ficm same way, IDS tells me I have 45v on KOEO, but when I go to KOER it drops to 29v. I am going to do a cold start tommorow and see if it starts up fine, after I repaired it the truck fired right up, but at about 10 this morning I put in a known good ficm and drove the truck around a bit so it was already warm. Will come back with results
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Old 08-28-2013, 08:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F250RD View Post
I repaired my ficm same way, IDS tells me I have 45v on KOEO, but when I go to KOER it drops to 29v. I am going to do a cold start tommorow and see if it starts up fine, after I repaired it the truck fired right up, but at about 10 this morning I put in a known good ficm and drove the truck around a bit so it was already warm. Will come back with results
It sounds like you are one of the many where just re-soldering didn't work. It may well be that neighboring components (mosfets, caps, various diodes, etc) are damaged. Let me know if we can help. It's worth ensuring that your batteries and alternator are in tip-top shape as well. Good luck!!

Ed
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Old 08-28-2013, 11:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FICMrepair.com View Post
It sounds like you are one of the many where just re-soldering didn't work. It may well be that neighboring components (mosfets, caps, various diodes, etc) are damaged. Let me know if we can help. It's worth ensuring that your batteries and alternator are in tip-top shape as well. Good luck!!

Ed
We had a customer bring in an aftermarket power source for their ficm and have us install it. Do you know where I would beable to find that? Not a half shell. My coworker has a used known good ficm for 250 but im wondering if the powersource would be cheaper
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Old 08-28-2013, 11:52 PM
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