Wow, last thursday took truck into town ran great, put here to bed. Thursday Night had a hell of a Electrical storm! Friday rolled around, tried to start the PSD and here's what I noticed. #1) "wait to start" light did NOT come on. #2) check engine light IS on. plenty of battery to easely turn vehicle over but WILL NOT FIRE!...went to O Reilly's and grabbed a code-catcher and unfortunetly, could not get it to display codes. So I went to the book and checked ALL fuses, their good. Checked voltage at the solid state relays - I think they are for the glow plugs, got 12 volts...so researched the Diesel Society on 7.3 PSD and I went ahead and changed out the "Cam Position Sensor" but no luck in firing up.....So I am looking for some advice/direction..Please? This is my first diesel project and she has run strong until Friday...FYI, no mod's performed other than 6637 and a very recent oil/filter change out to Rotella 15/40....thoughts?

 

Is it full of oil? Where did you get the CPS is the tach moving when you crank?

 

CPS from O'Riellys - spelled wrong - TACH is NOT Moving, and engine is full of oil, are you asking if the HPOP is full, also?

 

Go to ford and get the CPS. That more then likely is the problem since the tach is not moving when cranking. U can check the HPOP but my guess is the CPS is the problem. Alot of the aftermarket ones dont work.

 

22 MAXI fuse under the hood still have continuity (good)? Does it smoke any when you crank it? If so, what color is it?

 

I agree with copedaeg above.
No WTS light = blown #22 fuse

 

x2 .. above ...

Re-check fuse #22 in the engine compartment. It powers the PCM and the fuel filter heater. If the fuel filter heater shorted out then you will get a NO "wait-to-start" light. If that's the case unplug the heater, second connection from top .. drivers side .. on the filter canister. Replace the fuse and retry.

 

#22 maxi fuse, checks good, Tach has a "slight" bump when trying to start/turning over...running out of daylite, but will check HPOP res. and top off if needed....That Rotella 15/40 does seem kinda thin, only 200 miles on her since the oil change. Will get girl friend to "turn over" truck while I watch fro smoke. Appreciate the help and suggestions from all, keep them coming, as this seems to be electrical..? but hey, I love a good troubleshooting challenge....

 

"ZOIKS"! If your tach is bouncing then the CPS MOST LIKELY is ok, IMO. I would find a good code scanner and start w/some codes. I hate to say PCM but could be something else.

 

A big "Thank You" to everyone, Question, tried the O'Rielly's Code scanner, but it didn't work...wouldn't think NAPA or Autozone would be different?...Is there any Kansas City members who own one? Would compensate for their time and effort to catch codes, Warrensburg is 50 miles down Hwy 50. Very last thing I want to do is have it towed to the Ford Dealer...is there a "name Brand" code scanner that works, I travel to KC on a regular basis and could try to find and "rent" one...
More intel for you guys: 1 year ago, had fluid in the valley of Death, replaced all hoses, repaired fuel bowl with JB weld where pitting occured, replaced bowl heater, water sensors, everything new that could leak from the bowl, Banjo Nut was alittle loose, so I tightened it, and seemed to stop leak. HPOP res. gasket/RTV was leaking, replaced the rubber gasket (OEM) and RTV (OEM) and no leaks...Serviced the HPOP with recommended 1 quart of Oil. Checked the res. last night, I would estimate oil level to be 3/4 full to the plug...Question, if you fill to the top, would it not dump/overflow to the engine and basically "over fill" the engine sump?

 

I think the ZONE or Advanced may have an OBDII that will work. Do you have any smoke smoke in the cranking no start mode? If so what color is it?

 

No WTS & CEL points to PCM , unless there is a chip you are unaware of (loose) ..

 

X2. Did you check fuse 22 with a meter or just your eyeballs? I'd unplug the fuel bowl heater and replace that fuse just to be on the safe side. Stick the old CPS back in there (we've seen the ones from O'rielly be bad out of the box) Also tray swapping your relays around. Change the PCM and IDM relay with ones for the blower or something.

Put your batteries on a charger after all these starting attempts. And don't waste the voltage trying to crank. If the WTS light does not come on, the truck won't start.

 

Very little smoke - just a hint - and best I can tell it was a light white...

 

No Chip...justa stock PSD...