Well I guess my .02 wasn't worth much. No it did give me the WTS light but no fuel/smoke. I guess my mind was on the new thread I have not this one.

 

NO WTS points to PCM or a fuse


All good here ....

 

maybe an inline fuse? I hope it is something easy like a inline fuse or something. Please be sure to keep us informed on whats going on

 

I sure Will...I just UPS'd them off...Didn't realize this was the long weekend...man I work to much! Anyway, hope to hear something back from them, early next week.
And we'll go from there.

 

Got a call this morning from the Diagnostic Company....BAD PCM, technician said "it didn't even power up"...his words. And the IDM is ok...He's shipping a reman PCM w/ 1 year warranty for 325.00 total. Flashed, Programmed, etc, etc, to my Vin#...so should have it by late week....I'll keep you all updated, once I get her plugged in...

 

Well the Saga continues...PCM and IDM installed....Have a "WTS" and no check engine light...but wont fire...replaced the "original" Black bodied CPS and still no fire and also noticed no tach jump...Can't get a OEM CPS until monday...everyone I talked to say's " If it is a Ford CPS it will be grey in color" any truth to that statement?

So checked the HPOP res. and made sure it was full....all fuses are good. Just gotta wait until I can get a CPS and see.

 

If you have an International store near you then you can also use a CPS from them. It is like $8 cheaper where I am than Ford. The catch to IH is you have to have the part number when you go in and I don't have it off hand.

 

Fords replacement on the recall is light gray. They along with IH have a "better" one lots of us are using, its dark gray with a purple oring, here's the part numbers:

FORD F4TZ-12K073-C
IH 1876736C91

I've got one of each and paid 25 bucks for each one..

 

Thanks for the info...called the local Ford dealer and a KC Dealer, they both want 42.00 for the CPS. Not a time to sweat the price, just want to eliminate another step in this problem...So as I look back at the blog and what I have experienced so far...Truck ran good and put her to bed. Next afternoon, went to start and had a CEL and no WTS. Sent PCM and IDM for analysis and PCM toast, IDM good. Installed units and CEL gone and WTS comes on, but no fire. So I went back to Step one and removed the non-oem (newest) CPS and re-installed the original ( non-grey) CPS and tried to start and no Tach bounce whats so ever.
FYI. Changed the oil prior to this problem maybe 200 miles earlier. Went to Rotella 15w-40 and I checked the HPOP res. and needed to service up to the top. Tried starting, but again, wont fire. Also during this downtime I replaced the fuel filter, again for good measure. Swapped #22 with another 30 amp, no luck. inspected around the IPR wiring and didn't see anything out of the norm.

 

Well, guess I am just keeping busy, bored until I get the CMP Sensor from Ford...Ran down other threads and Started from Scratch: #1 Oil is fresh and Full. #2 HPOP is serviced full #3 Fuel Bowl drained and checked for water/Debris - all good, and no evidence of O-ring material. #4 Fuel filter new. #5 Swapped all relays around. All Maxi fuses check good w/DVOM. #6 Turbo Exhaust Back Pressure valve is retracted and parked against the stop. Is there any other things I could check while I wait 'till monday? Don't mean to bug evryone and again thanks for all the support, can't wait to get her up and running so thjis thread can be added to the "NO Start" blog. Again I must have multiple issues as the PCM failed throwing the NO "WTS" light and the "CEL"...those have cleared - with new PCM, IDM checked good.
...maybe I'll give it a rest today and hang my Deer Stand!

 

Check the voltages on the CPS sensor unplugged, key on.
It is a bit unique as it requires two voltage sources to run.

Dk Grn = +12 Volts from PCM (signal output)
Brn/Wht = +5 Volts from PCM (vss)
Lt Blu = Gnd to PCM.

If all are OK plug it in and while measuring the +12 volts (Dk Grn wire) bar the engine over by hand. As it rotates the voltage will switch from +12V to +1.5 volts and back as the sensor passes over the timing slots in the cam gear.

 

All voltages check good...now I need to trace wire back upstream and determine how to hand crank my Automatic.

 

Have you tried starting it with the ICP connector unplugged ?...

 

Good, I was worried about the +5.
Use a big socket or wrench on the vibration damper to turn it over.

 

Not familiar with that Term and where is that located? Sounds like a quick troubleshooting method...


I'll search this thread...thanks