Thanks much...that will help....I'll check the IDM for fluid and go from there..

Also want to throw this out there...I sprayed a little Ether and she fired on that just a little...don't know if that helps or hinders the troubleshooting ideas?...just threw it out there...

 

ETHER! I have done it before and so has probably 99% of the members on here have but if I don't say it, then it is as good as saying that it is OK. So Don't use ether!
With that out of the way, I used ether when the CPS went out AND when the IDM went out. Both times it kinda fired but I could tell it didn't sound right. I think just the compression of the ether made it combust (maybe someone else could explain). I would still focus on the harness and connection there under the hood. Next I would find a scanner that worked and jot down the codes for us to help you troubleshoot.

 

Iagree...never again....FYI ...I stopped in a New Diesel Shop one town over, and talked with the owner...very helpful, #1) he said go to Ford and buy 2 "grey" CPS's.... his experience with non-OEM CPS's is you might go thru 3-5 before you get one that works correctly...#2) He believes firmly that a no "WTS" is /can be a PCM or IDM....He has some loaner unit's so monday I am going to take him up on them and troubleshoot that way also. Has a Ford Code scanner, $100.00 for a diagnostic...more to come.

 

Yup! the black ones are junk. stick with the real deal when dealing with the CPS. Hopefully the IDM or the wire harness is the problem. Goodluck and let us know!

 

Most likely the oil cooler....


Actually CD,, it won't be the IDM or CPS.. PCM is where I would start

 

AHHH! It was just a matter of time!!! (I was gonna bring it up the other day but decided not to). (Long story mq1 [AF predator]).
I remember seeing a bad/faulty PCM connection on here under the hood once, it was a ripped boot or something that allowed moister and debris in and interfered with the contacts/continuity. I hope that is what the problem is here.

 

Took out IDM, contacts looked ok, no apparent burnt areas's. Not sound of sloshing water...

 

Well, got the PCM and IDM out and going to send off to be bench checked....Wow what a pain to get the PCM out!

 

No easy task for sure! I hope it goes back easily. If the PCM is bad just remember that there are 2 different types. There is the "Cali" model and then there is a "49 state" or FED model. Make sure you know what type of PCM you have/need before buying. (Let me know if you are not sure and we'll figure out what you have).

 

F5TF-12A650-BJF DPC-202 TEE5 is the numbers on the PCM...original date code of 02/06/95....but ya know, I am having fun digging into it, cause I get to dust off 15 years of dirt and change out dash lights, etc. Found the OEM keyless entry unit, just need to find a replacement keypad? to see if it works.

 

I am not sure about the keyless entry doohickey. I can't tell by the number if it is a "Cali" or not. I believe the "Cali" models have a "Cali" emissions sticker under the hood, on the hood. Also, at the fuel pump the is a 3"? "UFO" disc that sticks out from under the turbo pedestal. Do you know what you have?

 

well the vin# states it was built here at the Claycomo Plant, (Kansas City) and the dealer sticker is from Platte City, Missouri...don't think it strayed to far from home. But no UFO looking Disk under the pedestal...Just the B2 bombers flying over my house

 

LOL, good! You shouldn't have a problem (no more than you already have) then.

 

I had a modified IDM go bad with the same symtons. My IDM had water and my buddy that runs an electronics repair shop fixed the blow out and we modified it to 140V. Later on though the corrosion from the water did it in.

 

The IDM caused a no WTS light?