Rear Brakes & Axle Job questions
#1
Rear Brakes & Axle Job questions
I'm lookin for a write up on doing a rear brake job. Drums, no discs YET. Also, how do you disconnect the main brake line running to the axle? The line that runs down from the frame into the 4-way where the axle vent is and the two steel lines that run to each brake set.
And last, I'm also lookin for a write up on servicing the rear axle hubs, bearings, and what not.
And last, I'm also lookin for a write up on servicing the rear axle hubs, bearings, and what not.
#2
The rubber line that goes to the axle should disconnect at the chassis. The hard line that comes from the front should unscrew and then there is a clip that holds the hose to the chassis. Then your vent bolt holds the flex line to the axle. Just make sure to soak the bolt before you try to take it off, but it may break anyways. Hope this helps.
Red
Red
#4
I'll try to post the brake job in order:
1. Remove tires and wheels after all it is step 1
2. Remove the drum, this can be a real pain sometimes, hopefully it will come right off. If not there are a few tricks to try. if you need them let me know,I won't go to the work of listing them here.
3. Remove the nut from the backside of the baseplate at the top that holds on the splined stud for the auto adjuster and the E-brake. Remove the arm. If the E-brake cable slips out of it it can be a royal pain to get back in, so try to keep it from coming out.
4. You will need a set of brake pliers to install the springs.
5. Remove the brake shoes.
6. I recommend using new springs when replacing the brakes.
7. Clean the the baseplate well and using some fairly fine sandpaper, rough up all 6 contact points where the shoes slide, then lube the 6 spots. also totally unthread the sely adjuster and clean and lube the threads. (make sure you keep the two opposite side adjusters separate, because they have opposite thread patterns
8. Now transfer any hardware from the old shoes that didn't come with the new shoes.
9. Install the new shoes, ( this is were you will need the pliers) and reinstall the E-brake arm.
10. install everything else that you removed.
I recommend doing one side at a time, that way if you get confused you can look at the other side for reference.
I'm sure I didn't cover everything, and if you have any questions, ask them!
1. Remove tires and wheels after all it is step 1
2. Remove the drum, this can be a real pain sometimes, hopefully it will come right off. If not there are a few tricks to try. if you need them let me know,I won't go to the work of listing them here.
3. Remove the nut from the backside of the baseplate at the top that holds on the splined stud for the auto adjuster and the E-brake. Remove the arm. If the E-brake cable slips out of it it can be a royal pain to get back in, so try to keep it from coming out.
4. You will need a set of brake pliers to install the springs.
5. Remove the brake shoes.
6. I recommend using new springs when replacing the brakes.
7. Clean the the baseplate well and using some fairly fine sandpaper, rough up all 6 contact points where the shoes slide, then lube the 6 spots. also totally unthread the sely adjuster and clean and lube the threads. (make sure you keep the two opposite side adjusters separate, because they have opposite thread patterns
8. Now transfer any hardware from the old shoes that didn't come with the new shoes.
9. Install the new shoes, ( this is were you will need the pliers) and reinstall the E-brake arm.
10. install everything else that you removed.
I recommend doing one side at a time, that way if you get confused you can look at the other side for reference.
I'm sure I didn't cover everything, and if you have any questions, ask them!
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