How-to replace a rusty oil pan (1999 f-250 7.3)
#46
Looks good! and i got snagged linging it up and messed up the silicone bead. Just found out it takes 10 quarts. i put 12.5 in ... yikes.
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#47
#48
Do we assume at this point that you let this motor drip since November of last year?
Just messin, glad it worked out for ya!
#49
#50
It's not an 2002. it's an 1989. Just figure i'd try it on the old beater before I do it on my 02. The 02 should be easier. I have to weld it up now see how that works.
Yes its been sitting since Nov. I had a job back then and no heat in garage and my 02 wasn't leaking so bad now its leaking like a sift.
here's the 2002 oil pan.
here's the 02
02 7.3 Photo by mrblonde108 | Photobucket
Yes its been sitting since Nov. I had a job back then and no heat in garage and my 02 wasn't leaking so bad now its leaking like a sift.
here's the 2002 oil pan.
here's the 02
02 7.3 Photo by mrblonde108 | Photobucket
#51
Dood...
Save yourself the headache... just pull the motor and do it right.
It just seems like waaay to much extra bs over the possibility of saving maye a couple hours of time? In your case... you saved NO time on the 89...since it took MONTHS. So did a shortcut really get it back up and running ANY faster?
It is also imperitive that you allow ford or international bend you over on the grey goop sealant. Its about 20$ per 4oz. Tube... substandard sealants will NOT hold up for our application here.
Also... if one tiny drop of oil remaining in the crank case drips down and thinks about touching the sealant... it wicks the oil into the sealant and instantly destroys the seal...
Or dont listen to experience...
And eventually have to do it again the right way anyway...
(Yes... the right way... as prescribed by Ford... and more importantly, the builder of the engine... International)
Good luck to you...
Save yourself the headache... just pull the motor and do it right.
It just seems like waaay to much extra bs over the possibility of saving maye a couple hours of time? In your case... you saved NO time on the 89...since it took MONTHS. So did a shortcut really get it back up and running ANY faster?
It is also imperitive that you allow ford or international bend you over on the grey goop sealant. Its about 20$ per 4oz. Tube... substandard sealants will NOT hold up for our application here.
Also... if one tiny drop of oil remaining in the crank case drips down and thinks about touching the sealant... it wicks the oil into the sealant and instantly destroys the seal...
Or dont listen to experience...
And eventually have to do it again the right way anyway...
(Yes... the right way... as prescribed by Ford... and more importantly, the builder of the engine... International)
Good luck to you...
#52
I have about an hour into it so far. If i had to pull the motor the truck will be still sitting in the field.
Silicone will not "wick" up oil. If that was true the seal would disintegrate. besides i tested it and the grey stuff sticks to oily surface. I didn't use Ford ta-31 i used the right stuff it's way better.
To each his own. Sorry but for me removing radiator, fan clutch a/c condensor. motor mounts ,turbo, trannsmission bolt.s rusted exhaust flange bolts. draining antifreeze and freon removing radiator support brace ,header panel grill etc or making 2 cuts/
I'll go with 2 cuts.
Silicone will not "wick" up oil. If that was true the seal would disintegrate. besides i tested it and the grey stuff sticks to oily surface. I didn't use Ford ta-31 i used the right stuff it's way better.
To each his own. Sorry but for me removing radiator, fan clutch a/c condensor. motor mounts ,turbo, trannsmission bolt.s rusted exhaust flange bolts. draining antifreeze and freon removing radiator support brace ,header panel grill etc or making 2 cuts/
I'll go with 2 cuts.
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