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97 F350 surging on start

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Old 08-23-2010, 01:13 AM
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97 F350 surging on start

I have some issues, but first, I'd like to report that thanks to encouragement and info found on this forum...
The 97 F-250 xcab 4x4 auto that came into my hands a little while ago is much better.
It was an auction car, blinking OD light(converter slip), and the tranny started spewing fluid out the front on the way home(It was bone dry under the truck when I started)
Lucked into a parts 96 F350
So, I put in a ZF5, and swapped all electrical stuff from the manual truck. I converted the steering column, as it had a lot less miles than the donor truck. New South Bend DMF eliminator, 3"DP,Rancho adjustable shocks, tie rod, front U-joint, fuel restriction sensor...
And I put 4.10 axles and steering from the F350, thank god somebody came over to help me, those things are heavy!
At this point, it drives pretty well, though I think I need to find a front sway bar.

but on to the real story...
Since Ive done this, when I start the truck, hot or cold, it fires, drops to ~400 RPM, blows a puff of black as it revs to 650ish, drops to 400 again...
It seems to do this every start, and will keep doing it for awhile, maybe indefinitely. If I hold 1/3d throttle while starting, and keep the RPM over 1000 for a second, I can let off, and it is fine. What gives?
It did not do this before I did all the work. I used the 110V IDM from the stick truck, and I don't remember that truck doing this either.
It starts on the first crank, and engine response seems flawless. No check engine light.

Since I got the tranny in, a few things blew out straight away...
the water pump was not leaking but began to eat itself. New one is in, but since then, I have belt squeal that wont quit, i'm a bit worried that its shaft may be out of plane, A drop of water on any inside pulley, it is silent for 30 seconds. Maybe both my belts are just old, the really cracked ugly one ran fairly quiet till I tried the belt conditioner

The first start with the new trans, the fuel restrict sensor puked its guts

The left Ebrake doesn't release unless you yank the cable housing.

The clutch rod bushing didn't like its new home.

EDIT: Sounds a lot like this, but a little less off beat.
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Yes. This was with the resistor removed from the ICP and single shot programming. Tony Wildman has me set up with Split shot programming now so no more loping.
At least I didn't have to buy a lope idle chip.
Should I pull 290.000 mile singll shots out of the other truck?
 
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Old 08-23-2010, 08:12 AM
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Check the connection to the ICP sensor , & look for oil leaking from it
 
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Old 08-23-2010, 08:27 AM
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He should unplug it and see if the truck runs any different, seeing as it will default then, instead of try to correct the bad readings.

Oil generally means a bad sensor. Unplugging it is a good way to find out.
Not a cheap part to just swap out to see if its bad.
 
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Old 08-23-2010, 09:11 AM
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Got my ICP sensor for $85 shipped from Ebay, brand new Motorcraft part. Even brand new there's a little oil in the sensor. I had to pop it off to re-splice my ICP wires from my old 10k mod (that was a waste of time). I still had the little quick-connects on it and decided to do a good splice and shrink-wrap it this time.
 
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Old 08-23-2010, 02:56 PM
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ICP unplugged = no change No sign of leakage.
idle does self stabilize after a few minutes

What will I be getting into reinstalling the auto ECU
This engine sticker says its CA legal.

Because every thread is better with pics;
Here she is


SAS


250/350 hybrid rear suspension
 
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Old 08-24-2010, 02:19 PM
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Fixed the squealey belt -both old ones were apparently bad
And the AC -I had to smack the low pressure switch a few times
And the e-brake
Reinstalled interior panels.

New shoes, and hopefully a visit to the brake and lamp shop today.
 
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