Headers. . .fender vs. chassis exit, what's the difference???
#1
Headers. . .fender vs. chassis exit, what's the difference???
I see there are fender and chassis exit headers available for the '73-79 F-series of trucks. . .both for the 351M/400M (hers) and the 429/460 (mine).
What's the difference. . .I haven't seen either before?
Will be a basically stock appearing body and engine bay for the 400M, but the 460 will have a 1-pc. fiberglass front clip with flared front fenders and flared fiberglass bedsides (a desert truck) with the stock frame being cut-off behind the cab and a tube frame from their back plus a full cab roll-cage and tube engine cage tied into the stock frame.
Thanks!
What's the difference. . .I haven't seen either before?
Will be a basically stock appearing body and engine bay for the 400M, but the 460 will have a 1-pc. fiberglass front clip with flared front fenders and flared fiberglass bedsides (a desert truck) with the stock frame being cut-off behind the cab and a tube frame from their back plus a full cab roll-cage and tube engine cage tied into the stock frame.
Thanks!
#5
Inside the frame causes all kinds of possible issues when it comes to exhaust system time, especially if they dump out in front of the xmsn cross member.
I had set on a F150 4x4, was a pain putting exhaust sys on, and starter changes are a PITA.
Fenderwell is the way to go IMO, makes everything easier.
I had set on a F150 4x4, was a pain putting exhaust sys on, and starter changes are a PITA.
Fenderwell is the way to go IMO, makes everything easier.
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#8
Fenderwell exit next time around for me (this coming winter's resto). I've had Hookers on it for 25 years, and although they fit well and the kit that goes with them fits well, they are a pain for maintenance of any kind to the trans or t-case, and heat the tranny oil big-time because of the proximity to the pan. Fenderwells get rid of ALL the routing and maintenance problems- worth every penny from what I've seen.
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There are 3 things that I do not like about fenderwell exits though...
1) They are very close to the flex line for the brakes on the front axle (where the hard line comes from the Prop. valve to the connector on the frame for the rubber line).
2) You need at least a 4" lift and/or bumpstops to keep your radius arms from smacking the headers.
3) You have to adjust your steering stops so your tire won't rub them.
1) They are very close to the flex line for the brakes on the front axle (where the hard line comes from the Prop. valve to the connector on the frame for the rubber line).
2) You need at least a 4" lift and/or bumpstops to keep your radius arms from smacking the headers.
3) You have to adjust your steering stops so your tire won't rub them.
#15