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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 08-22-2010, 06:46 PM
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FORDF250HDXLT FORDF250HDXLT is offline
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Maximum Free Flow Rate (gph): 30
Maximum Pressure Range (psi): 5.75
Minimum Free Flow Rate (gph): 30
Minimum Pressure Range (psi): 4.5

Airtex Master/Fuel Pump (60278) | Fuel Pump | 1993 Ford F250 3/4 ton P/U 4WD 8 Cylinders M 7.3L Diesel | AutoZone.com

thats the stock replacement mechanical.
the IDI is indirectly injected.all we need is to supply fuel up to the fuel filter and the ip takes it from there.
to much pressure and you will frig up the injection timing.
that's why there's no reason to pay large sums of $ for your e-pumps.
as long as she flows enough to supply the engine and cool the injectors,and is rated for diesel fuel,you should have it made.
don't run out of fuel,and make sure your tanks are clean,just about any diesel fuel rated pump should do the ticket.
you want it close to the tanks,so gravity feeds it,and then it can push it up to the filter for easy priming and running.
if you run a filter pre-pump,you want to clean/replace it often.if that gets plugged up,then the pump will strain and fail early.
im not running a pre-pump filter.my tank is clean,and poly so it will never rust,and the fuel goes through the stock filter several times during a tank of fuel anyway.
my rear will be a poly tank too once i finish other things first.for now i don't use it,cus it leaks.
i also removed all the metal fuel lines and replaced with rubber fuel rated hose to combat rusty lines inside and out of the fuel system.
the only part im having very bad luck with is the injector install kit caps & lines.
but thanks to the e-pump it doesn't start hard when i have a leak problem.i keep going without missing a beat,and replace whatever is leaking up there at my convenience.so far i haven't had to replace the same section/piece twice.i think i got a poor quality kit from pensacola diesel the first time.the second kit parts i can see are built better.i likely should have just replaced the whole kit again lol.if i stuck with the stock mechanical,i wouldn't have even thought about it of course.
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 11-22-2010, 08:34 PM
hogwildde hogwildde is offline
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Pump keeps running

OK i put on a new Facet e pump i picked up from napa...It cured my starting problem, I wired this with a in line 10 amp fuse to a cabin switch, I have now found out that with the engine shut down the pump continues to run NON stop...is this normal???
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Old 11-22-2010, 08:52 PM
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first off, welcome. did you wire it to a toggle switch or did you tap into a ignition wire?
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Old 11-22-2010, 09:33 PM
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If the pump has power to it it will run wether the engine is running or not.

If you are going to change over to an electric pump it is best to repair your fuel system to where it starts like it is supposed to first, anything else and you are just going around a problem that is still there. If you are using it for your primary fuel pump always at least unhook the mechanical pump.
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Old 11-22-2010, 09:35 PM
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The pump should only run when the ignition is on
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Old 11-22-2010, 09:50 PM
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Here are some pics of my install.
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Old 11-22-2010, 09:57 PM
starmilt starmilt is offline
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Man I just got me some glasses and I'm still blind. I can't make heads or tales from them pics. lol
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Old 11-22-2010, 10:03 PM
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I have since changed the plastic crimp to a soldered connection at the fuel shut off solenoid where I picked up my hot wire to run the relay. Then I have a hot coming from the starter solenoid to my relay with a weather-proof blade style fuse. The small red wire close to the fire wall is a ground. The other small red wire is the hot coming from the fuel shut-off. The large orange wire is the power coming in to the relay to run the pump, the large red wire is the hot going to the pump.
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Old 11-22-2010, 10:13 PM
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I'm not sure if I will keep the filter down on the frame rail. That may get deleted, we'll see how it does this winter. I thought it was a good idea at the time to protect the pump but I could see how it may be a place for fuel to gel up in the winter.
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Old 11-23-2010, 11:31 AM
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i dont understand how it will work because the racor has a max cap of 15 gph and the carter has 72 gph flow rates that would mean the carter is working too hard to pump the fuel out and mechanical pump has about 35 gph flow
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Old 11-23-2010, 03:37 PM
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If was going to put an electric pump on any of my trucks I would go with the electric pump GM used on there 6.5's. They feed a pump basically like these and run the oil pressure switch to ground the pump relay. Like GM. Worked around them for several years and very seldom did you see problems. Delco number is EP 309 or EP 318. Another thing is they would be easy to get.
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Old 01-22-2014, 12:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by catfish101 View Post
If was going to put an electric pump on any of my trucks I would go with the electric pump GM used on there 6.5's. They feed a pump basically like these and run the oil pressure switch to ground the pump relay. Like GM. Worked around them for several years and very seldom did you see problems. Delco number is EP 309 or EP 318. Another thing is they would be easy to get.
My truck has been sidelined for months and I just found this thread. I pulled the tanks and FSV. Replaced the pickup tubes and cleaned the FSV thinking it might be plugged. I'm still getting little to no fuel at the Schrader valve and risking burning up the starter. So, I have been trying to find out if a new in the box pump from an old 6.5 will work and here's my answer. Good deal !

If anyone can clarify the ops to ground relay idea, that would sure help me out. I gotta get this truck on the road but want to wire this up safely and to the switch if possible.
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Old 01-22-2014, 09:43 PM
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on IDI engine's the FSS wire is a good choice to trigger the relay, for the pump, a pre filter is a good idea, as most manufactures require one. the engine, will consume about 9 oz a minute at 60 mph, plus what travels down the return from the orifice in the filter head, 9oz x 2 x 60 min / 128 =8.4375 gallons per hr so 16 -25 gph for stock engine. factory filter of 10-12 micron is good 6 micron is better, 2 is unnecessary. imo. use a hunk of rubber, (muffler mount) to reduce noise. mounting after the fuel tank selector valve allows the pump to push instead of pull fuel.
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Old 01-23-2014, 03:49 PM
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Thanks ! I just went out and pulled the core from the Schrader valve one more time to test. Absolutely no fuel from the manual pump. I also found the electric one I plan to install, Part#AP63440 Fuel Transfer Pump. I also plan to pull out of the loop the Tank selector and just run off of the rear for now. I wish I could find a metal flared tubing connector that would hook into the clip down stock fittings. I'm trying to eliminate anything that might be the culprit and get this thing running. Hope this works.......
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Old 02-07-2014, 06:16 PM
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Well, she's running like a scalded dog ! I'm real glad I found this post. The wiring help provided here made it happen. It did not go easy though. I dropped the rear tank (from underneath), plumbed in a new pickup tube with a V notch. Hooked everything up and got her started. Made it about 5 miles down the road and she would not stay running. Had to get my wife to pull me home. After checking it out, I could hear the fuel sucking in the rear tank. Too much air was getting to the filter.

I decided then to drop the front tank, plumb in the new pickup and reinstall. That was a nasty *** 18 beer job there (over 3 different attempts). Hooked it all up and got good fuel to the filter. She fired right up so I drove it about 120 miles. This truck has never smoked so little and run so strong for me. This thing has been starved for fuel for the 15,000 miles I've owned it. Now I need to drop the rear again and find out what's up there. We plan on taking a road trip soon, I think she will make it ! Electric pumps are the way to go.
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Old 02-07-2014, 06:16 PM
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