Anyone tried this set up from Crutchfield. Seems like a good option. Would be about $200 more than similarly equipped Boxworkx.


JL Audio Stealthbox® (Black) Custom-fit fiberglass enclosure with 13" TW5-3 subwoofer — fits 2008-up Ford SuperDuty Crew Cab with 60/40 split rear bench seat at Crutchfield.com



I guess it comes down to which area you use more. Behind the seats or under the rear seats.

Was hoping to see more pics of boxworkx set ups in FTE trucks. Especially with the side slave or whatever its called.

Pics anyone. Also curious of the amp installs and locations.

 

Just stumbled across this thread, great stuff. Looks like the sub-woofer is all figured out with that neat as crap PAC unit. Now, as part of the original question, can you add navigation to a truck without it, are the hook ups there?

I have a Lariat and what to add navigation, and a rear camera, is the wiring there, especially the wiring harness that would go to the rear view mirror? Also, did Ford make a multiple CD changer optional in the new radios or as a remote one like I had in my 2000 Excursion that had one in the console?

Inquiring minds want to know!

 

The problem with that setup is that you lose all your underseat storage. The boxworx setup wedges behind the rear seat, which for me is unaccessible anyways since I have 2 car seats in the rear seat. There isn't much to see with the box installed. I can snap a couple pics but it wouldn't show much.

My amp and LOC are both in the small underseat storage bin on the passenger side rear seat (and locks utilizing the factory lock).

The rear camera screen is built into the navigation unit itself (from the factory). If you didn't get the nav unit but got the rear cam, you got the rear view mirror with the backup cam. There isn't a cd changer, but even better is the jukebox. Put your cd in, burn it to the juke box, and never deal with the cd again.

There is a guy in the 6.7 forum that tried to upgrade to the nav system and ran into a bunch of issues. He ended up going aftermarket. There's also 2 or 3 others that did the upgrade with no problems at all and had a very easy install experience. The 6.7 forum is the place to go for anything '11+ SD related (and not just the motor itself).

 

Here are pics of the sub box and amp. I still have to cut the rear carpet to fit around the box which I haven't gotten to you yet. But you get the idea.

I have a set of Polk seperates to put up front to replace my infinity 6x8s. Another thing I haven't gotten to yet...

 

Anyone be able to help me with my PAC interface? All I need is to get the amp to turn on with the ignition, Have a feeling maybe I got a dud PAC, is there a way around this to get my amp to turn on via remote wire? I thought it was just plug and play

Im running a MRP-1000 alpine amp, and stock radio in my truck ( it has sirius, usb, aux in, NO NAV, etc)

any help would be nice, just wanna get this thing put back together and outa my garage today

 

So here is what im up against





this blue wire gets spliced in betwen the PAC,


and then goes off to the deck again, and it just comes all the way through the PAC and out the otherside by the RCA's.



However there is no power coming off this wire when I hook it to my amp, so im not getting power from the other side either, So i need a new ignition wire,




The yellow wire in the harness is a constant 12V+ supply, the red wire does nothing when connected to my amp trigger wire, same with both pinks, blue/white, so all im left to try is the 7 brown wires, two orange wires (orange/black, and orange/white) and of course the ground will do nothing at all. This is very frustrating, everythings ready to go, except the simpliest part in the whole world.

 

I answered your question on my profile page, unfortunately I'm not familiar with the PAC devices, not using one personally so I can't say. I uploaded a wiring schematic for the 11+ stereos in case that helps at all.

If you're set on just getting it done, I'd run a separate wire off the fuse block (hot with the key on, mini fuse taps are good for this) and run it to the amp.

 

Silverbullet, thanks for the radio wiring diagram. I want to try and use the wiring from the existing POS sub and amp they have in my 2011 350 Lariate with a new sub and amp in a new box.

Does anyone have the dimensions I need to build a box for behind the seat of a 350 CC with electric rear window? It's mainly the depth I'm looking for, but anything and everything helps. I guess I'm just too cheap to pay $200 for a box that would cost me $15 to make myself, since I have all the stuff laying around here.

Thanks again......

 

Thanks a whole bunch Silverbullet!! I got another wire ran, im currently just trying to find one that is hot with the key, the radio once is constantly hot, and so is the spot for the subwoofer, I got a mini fuse connector thing from canadian tire, but finding one that is hot with key is turning out hard too

 

I have that same configuration and I'd measure mine but taking the car seats out is kind of a pain. I can tell you the box is wedged tight between the seat and the rear cab wall, and sits all the way down on the floor. The sub fires against the drivers side rear seat.

For the wiring, I just tapped into the existing pos/neg wires (SW+ = violet/green stripe, SW- = green/white stripe) to feed my line output converter, then used larger wire for turn on/12v/ground.

I'm currently tapped into the fuse for the upfitter switches. Those only work with the ignition on and I'm not using them for anything now anyways. It's only temporary but works fine. I believe it was fuse #44 that I tapped into.

 

Yep fuse #44 is perfect for a ignition wire!! Works wonderful!! And wow! Two - 12" Rockford fosgates in a ported box from boxworxs @ 2ohms is a CRAZY amount of bass!! I actually turned it down a lot, and I'd almost suggest just a single 12"

This truck is very friendly for a sub install, even give you a nice place to run the wire through the firewall, gotta cut the one end of it off, pull the plug on the other end of the rubber, soap your wire up, and pull it through.

Hardest part was pulling the rear sears, and well cutting a brand new truck carpet out to get the box to fit, and knocking those vents out (kind hurts to do). But I guess if I ever go to sell it and someone doesnt want the subs, the box will get pulled, and vents reinstalled, and a new back carpet.

I'd almost suggest pulling that back carpet right out, and saving it. instead of cutting it, kinda wish I had done that now.

Thanks everyone for your help!! and I'll edit this and put pics of my set up on here for everyone!

 

Yeah definitely post up some pics. Let me know when you're ready to do the doors.

I rewired everything and added 2 sets of C-570's, huge difference over factory.

 

I'm wanting to add the pac aoem-frd24 to my 2011 f350 lariat with the factory nav. Will this pac unit work with my setup?

 

It should still work, but remember you will have to add a wire to turn the amp on, because the remote wire on the PAC doesnt work in these trucks, (may be different for the nav but doubt it). Other than that it should work flawlessly. Let us know what you end up doing and how it goes

 

What did you end up doing for a remote wire?