instrument cluster voltage regulator
#1
08-19-2010, 07:13 AM
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: nova scotia
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#2
08-19-2010, 09:06 AM
They are usually intermittent, so it's hard to test them. You have to take the cluster out and power it up to test them anyway.
When they act up again, wiggle the keyswitch lightly and see if they come around. These trucks are famous for the ignition switch and key assembly not returning back to the right spot and some of the electrical will decide to not to work.
What's funny is I just inherited a 86 Ford Ranger with some problems. Working through them, I noticed the fuel gauge would not work. Took it for a test ride and it happened to start raining, and the wipers would not work also. So I figured all this would need work/replacing. During the test ride, the wipers suddenly started working as well as the fuel gauge.
The next day nothing would work again. I got suspicious and after I got it started, I wiggled the keyswitch. Suddenly the wipers started working, the fuel gauge started reading, and the radio started blaring.
So it seems this problem is not confined to the big trucks only. I am going to replace the ignition switch under the dash and go from there.
When they act up again, wiggle the keyswitch lightly and see if they come around. These trucks are famous for the ignition switch and key assembly not returning back to the right spot and some of the electrical will decide to not to work.
What's funny is I just inherited a 86 Ford Ranger with some problems. Working through them, I noticed the fuel gauge would not work. Took it for a test ride and it happened to start raining, and the wipers would not work also. So I figured all this would need work/replacing. During the test ride, the wipers suddenly started working as well as the fuel gauge.
The next day nothing would work again. I got suspicious and after I got it started, I wiggled the keyswitch. Suddenly the wipers started working, the fuel gauge started reading, and the radio started blaring.
So it seems this problem is not confined to the big trucks only. I am going to replace the ignition switch under the dash and go from there.
#3
08-20-2010, 08:30 PM
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Minnesota
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Just did a "go round" with the IVR on Clyde. No working fuel, temp or oil pressure gauges. Had done the "key-wiggle thing" before but this time it didn't fix it.
As long as I was going to dive into this I ended up swapping in a new gauge cluster with a tach and trip odometer I'd pulled from a neighbors Bronco before he junked it. The salvaged IVR may have been fine, but before I installed the new gauge set I replaced the IVR with an electronic one from an ebay seller named "jpinkypink". I told Ivan that I needed one set up to work with my 84 F250 and he sent me the right regulator with the correct connections for $27.50 in my mailbox.
Gauges work like a champ ..... solid 4.98V output and no worries about using an old one that may die anyday like the OE one did.
Now if I could just get the new tach to work without having to "superheat" it.
As long as I was going to dive into this I ended up swapping in a new gauge cluster with a tach and trip odometer I'd pulled from a neighbors Bronco before he junked it. The salvaged IVR may have been fine, but before I installed the new gauge set I replaced the IVR with an electronic one from an ebay seller named "jpinkypink". I told Ivan that I needed one set up to work with my 84 F250 and he sent me the right regulator with the correct connections for $27.50 in my mailbox.
Gauges work like a champ ..... solid 4.98V output and no worries about using an old one that may die anyday like the OE one did.
Now if I could just get the new tach to work without having to "superheat" it.
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