2006 F250 Lift Setup - Will this work?
#1
2006 F250 Lift Setup - Will this work?
I have a bone stock 2006 F250 Super Duty 6.0L that I am looking to beef up a bit and I would like to know if the setup that I'm looking at will work or what alternatives any of you might provide.
ReadyLift #69-2537 providing 3.5" front end / 3" back end lift
2005-2007 Ford Super Duty 4WD 3.5" SST Lift Kit -- 69-2537
MotoMetal M951 17x9 wheels
moto metal 951
Mickey Thompson Baja Claw 35x12.50R17LT
Mickey Thompson Performance Tires & Wheels
Bushwacker Pocket style Fender Flares # 20914-02
http://motors.shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=bushwacker+ford+pocket
Here's my truck now:
ReadyLift #69-2537 providing 3.5" front end / 3" back end lift
2005-2007 Ford Super Duty 4WD 3.5" SST Lift Kit -- 69-2537
MotoMetal M951 17x9 wheels
moto metal 951
Mickey Thompson Baja Claw 35x12.50R17LT
Mickey Thompson Performance Tires & Wheels
Bushwacker Pocket style Fender Flares # 20914-02
http://motors.shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=bushwacker+ford+pocket
Here's my truck now:
#4
What if I were to go with a separate 2.5" front leveling kit (TrailMaster FL222) and a set of 4" blocks for the rear (i.e. 2" lift over stock 2" rear blocks)? I can get all of that for a little over $300.
#5
That lift is way over priced. For $300 more you can get a BDS 4" lift, with new coils, radius arm relocation brackets that aren't made of tin foil, drop pitman arm, and four new shocks. That's a WHOLE LOT MORE STUFF, and it's a spring front lift instead of a spacer. You can get real creative, and order just the BDS front lift, get Bilstein 5100 shocks, and order a rear AAL and taller block instead of stacking blocks, and still probably come in under $1200. Then you have a bada$$ lift instead of a glorified set of spacers for everything.
Without customizing the kits at all, just taking what they give you:
BDS 4" lift- $1099
Icon 4.5" lift- $1865
CST 4.5" lift- $1167
RCD 4" lift- $1415
Those kits all have replacement coils, which is a lot better than a 3.5" spacer.
Without customizing the kits at all, just taking what they give you:
BDS 4" lift- $1099
Icon 4.5" lift- $1865
CST 4.5" lift- $1167
RCD 4" lift- $1415
Those kits all have replacement coils, which is a lot better than a 3.5" spacer.
#6
You can get real creative, and order just the BDS front lift, get Bilstein 5100 shocks, and order a rear AAL and taller block instead of stacking blocks, and still probably come in under $1200. Then you have a bada$$ lift instead of a glorified set of spacers for everything.
The only reason I want to lift the rear is to get a little rake back after leveling the front so I can fit the 35's in there.
#7
Leveling the front is a 2" goal, not a 3.5-4" goal. Factory 350 blocks and factory ubolts will cost you maybe $100 if you look around, front lower spacer will cost you $75. Buy the shocks of your choice the replace the front ones, maybe $65 a stick, and you're done. Once you break the 3" mark is when you have to really start replacing and moving front end components.
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#9
The jackass with 44" BFG K/Os crusing speedbumps at the mall, but when you look at the truck it's a disaster of chrome plated everything, random tubes welded to random things to 'brace' the 85 extra shocks, 10" body lifts, obscene neon green paint jobs, European techno music, all driven by a guy from Married-my-cousin-ville, Hicktown with 3 teeth, 2 dogs, and 1 sister in the passenger seat.
Stacking blocks is just a bad idea, it's frowned upon by people who spend time lifting trucks correctly, and it makes you look like a poseur who will sacrifice function for looks.
Stacking blocks is just a bad idea, it's frowned upon by people who spend time lifting trucks correctly, and it makes you look like a poseur who will sacrifice function for looks.
#10
The jackass with 44" BFG K/Os crusing speedbumps at the mall, but when you look at the truck it's a disaster of chrome plated everything, random tubes welded to random things to 'brace' the 85 extra shocks, 10" body lifts, obscene neon green paint jobs, European techno music, all driven by a guy from Married-my-cousin-ville, Hicktown with 3 teeth, 2 dogs, and 1 sister in the passenger seat.
Stacking blocks is just a bad idea, it's frowned upon by people who spend time lifting trucks correctly, and it makes you look like a poseur who will sacrifice function for looks.
Stacking blocks is just a bad idea, it's frowned upon by people who spend time lifting trucks correctly, and it makes you look like a poseur who will sacrifice function for looks.
So, as you can tell - I'm just learning about this stuff. I'll be doing the install myself - and just trying to learn as much as I can before I make any purchases and start tackling the beast.
So, I'm looking at the BDS "Pro Ride System". There are a couple of versions. What's the difference between the "Standard Kit" and the "4 Link System"?
Standard:
Front Coil Springs (Diesel)
Front Box Kit
Rear Block Kit w/ top overload
Stabilizer Cylinder
Front Shock
Rear Shock
4 Link:
Front Coil Springs (Diesel)
4-Link Kit Box 1 of 2 ***
4-Link Kit Box 2 of 2 ***
Rear Block Kit w/ top overload
Stabilizer Cylinder
Front Shock
Rear Shock
#11
The 4-link kit replaces the radius arms with two links, one mounts to the top of the axle tube, one to the bottom, and then mount to the frame roughly where the radius arm used to. 4-linking the front (or custom radius arms) is basically a requirement on any lift over 6" (and is perfered even on smaller lifts) because the factory arms aren't long enough to keep the axle centered in the wheel wells while still keeping the C's at an angle that doesn't destroy your alignment, while still allowing the suspension to droop without the wheels backsiding the fender because of how short the wheel arc is. Each link can be adjusted individually to control the alignment settings (specifically caster) and keep the axle vertical (mainly the spring perch to keep the coils straight); the links can be made as long as you need to push the axle forward and back to the center of the wheel well. On 4 link kits sold my major manufacturers, the links normally aren't adjustable, because they've spend the time making sure the links are the correct length.
One side of a 4-link:
Radius arm bracket:
#12
First off,
if you don't off road or do lightly the Readylift is a quality kit and better made than most leveling kits. Don't call it junk unless you have experience with one. Although the 3.5" kit is a bit pricey, i think the 2.5" kit they make is better priced. You can get the 2.5" front end leveling kit: Ford F250/F350 SUPER DUTY, 2005-2007, 4WD ONLY - 2.5" w/ track bar bracket for a much more reasonable price of $400.
Purchase 4" OEM blocks from a 350 with new u-bolts for more savings. These can be purchased at a good price from parts guy Ed or e-bay.
I pieced mine together with the top-hat spacers from top-gun customz and fabed my own poly insulators. I didn't want the shock extenders as i was going to Bilstein 5100's.
Whichever kit you decide on consider a proper alignment from a quality alignment shop that deals with lifted trucks.
Remember the kit is not designed to be used as an off road "lift" as are all spacer type level/lifts. Again, you have to decide how the truck will be used. If you do off-road go with a full coil lift as mentioned.
if you don't off road or do lightly the Readylift is a quality kit and better made than most leveling kits. Don't call it junk unless you have experience with one. Although the 3.5" kit is a bit pricey, i think the 2.5" kit they make is better priced. You can get the 2.5" front end leveling kit: Ford F250/F350 SUPER DUTY, 2005-2007, 4WD ONLY - 2.5" w/ track bar bracket for a much more reasonable price of $400.
Purchase 4" OEM blocks from a 350 with new u-bolts for more savings. These can be purchased at a good price from parts guy Ed or e-bay.
I pieced mine together with the top-hat spacers from top-gun customz and fabed my own poly insulators. I didn't want the shock extenders as i was going to Bilstein 5100's.
Whichever kit you decide on consider a proper alignment from a quality alignment shop that deals with lifted trucks.
Remember the kit is not designed to be used as an off road "lift" as are all spacer type level/lifts. Again, you have to decide how the truck will be used. If you do off-road go with a full coil lift as mentioned.
#13
The actual construction and quality of the ReadyLift is probably pretty good, but a 3.5" top hat spacer that costs as much as a new 4" lift coil? Cmon, that's kinda crappy, as far as what you're getting for your money. It might be an awesome spacer, but when you're talking basically a 4" lift, it's time for new coils. I think that's what fordfanatic was saying, you're paying a lot for something that is for "non-offroad use" when you can pay the same amount, and get a better "non-offroad" ride, and gain suspension flex at the same time.
#14
I fully agree,
I just wanted to clarify the quality of the kit he was inquiring about. As i did more to recommend the lower leveling kit (2.5") priced some $600-700 cheaper than the standard BDS kit. The OP needs to learn the many options that are available to him but first needs to determine how he will best use his truck and the money he wants or can afford to spend.
I just wanted to clarify the quality of the kit he was inquiring about. As i did more to recommend the lower leveling kit (2.5") priced some $600-700 cheaper than the standard BDS kit. The OP needs to learn the many options that are available to him but first needs to determine how he will best use his truck and the money he wants or can afford to spend.
#15
I'm a cheap bastage!