Hey guys, somewhat new here, was an old registered lurker when I had my old '62 Unibody short bed, since sold that and moved on, but with any good possibility should be buying another soon enough (y block, auto, neat truck) But anywho, this is about my car hauler, my air conditioned work horse, the apple of my eye, my beloved '92 IDI F350.

Long/short...I bought it about a year ago, had a plow on it, and after getting it home small things started popping up that lead me to believe it wasn't very cared for. Every once in awhile the O/D off light would flash, and it would start shifting hard. Usually from accellerating too quickly from a stand still. Well, that would be once in a blue, and a shut off would take care of it. The past week or two it's been every day, every trip. Went to Aamco near me, and they were unable to communicate with the computer. Took out my trusty old 1960's voltmeter and was able to pull the codes myself. I had an O2 code, but the relevant ones were 23, saying the TPS was out of "self test range" and a 59, auto trans slip. Duh. Anywho, foolishly I replaced the TPS, and still get that same code. Tested it, and from closed to WOT it tests within spec.

Then I pulled a code 29 when I scanned it right after the OD light came on, saying "insufficient data from vehicle speed sensor". Replaced that guy, and havent gotten the code since. But alas, light flashes on the first trip, and now the code is a 49 (which I couldnt find by seaching here) saying "electronic transmission shift error" and I have no idea what that means.

So, in a long winded, that's my story kinda way...

1. What does the TPS being out of self test range mean? Especially since to my voltmeter it seems OK?
and...
2. What could code 49 "electronic transmission shift error" possibly mean?

Thanks!

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...-flashing.html Have a read here for correct adjustment of the FIPL sensor (TPS). May solve a lot of problems.

 

Thanks Lazy K! I took a look at that, but before doing any of it I had a thought and read around here some advise, turns out that there is a checklist of things to do while performing the KoEo test, which I didn't do. Once I hit the brake, clicked the OD switch and went WOT with the throttle, my test came back fine.

Transmission is still on the disabled list tho, now here is where we are. Im consistently getting codes 29 and 49 stored, insufficient data from VSS and electronic transmission shift error. I am assuming (correct me if I am wrong) that the problem leading to 29 would cause 49 to come after it detects an electronically controlled shift problem? So, unless I am wrong I am going to focus more on the 29 for now.

I have taken the easy route and just replaced the VSS on the rear axle. Until tomorrow there is no way for me to safely test the new VSS (I dont want the thing on jack stands in drive without someone in it to operate the brake should we have a freak earthquake or something, that would be my luck) but I am wondering if there could be a problem from the wiring out of the VSS? It looks like a green with black stripe and red with pink stripe, where do they terminate? The PSOM? Thanks!

 

Also, one quick question, I am assuming from what Ive read the red/pink wire is signal, so the green/black would be what? 12v+ w/ key on? I really feel like Im getting close here.

 

OK you need to check the voltages you are getting at the FIPL sensor. You should it so that you get 1.0-1.5v at idle and 4.0-4.3v at WOT.
Code 49 is 1-2 shift error. Probably means either a bad 1-2 shift solenoid or bad wiring connection.
Now, if memory serves me correctly, for pulling codes on your truck you should have the gas pedal pressed fully down before starting the test and during it.
Since you have replaced the FIPL sensor, I think I would be inclined to adjust it to the specs above and then clear the codes. Drive it and and see what it is like. Then check for any new codes.

 

Lazy K, he said he put the hammer down last time when performing the KOEO test and the 23 code for the FIPL went away, so that's take care of.

On the VSS issue, check the wiring where it passes near the edge of the frame rail, it's kinda scary there frame on one side and the tank on the other, maybe the wires got damaged from rubbing on either? But yes, they will go to the PSOM, is your speedometer working fine?

The 1-2 shif solenoid, it could be bad yes, but before that let's rule out the harness itself - pull every single connector on the trans (should be at least two, one for the MLPS on the driver side and one for the solenoid pack on the passenger side behind a small heat shield) and clean them good then pack with dielectric grease and plug back in. Then under the brake booster there is another pack of three connectors, all three attached to the same meta plate - again pull apart, clean and reassemble. Additionally I had a big issue with the harness end of the solenoid pack connector itself - where the wires go through the plastic plate that closes off its back end the plastic plate had sharp edges on the holes and rubbed through the wires insulation, some were actually touching - I had to pull that connector apart, pull every single pin out, repair whichever wires were frayed, then insulate every single one with a double layer of heat-shrink of course now the rubber seal would not fit over the wires, so I discarded it and the plastic plate that caused the whole mess to begin with, and packed the connector solid with JB-weld - should be good for the life of the truck and then some...

 

Absolutely, I am no longer really looking toward the fipl since I performed the test right and it came back within spec. That would have been really killer had I done that before last Saturday (when I woke up with a tinge of a hangover at 6 am to drive an hour to a friends parts store that stocks Motorcraft haha) But we live and we learn.

OK, here is where we are, I just tested the harness @ the VSS, at key on I have 5v. Good. So, what I did was run a wire from the ground side of the battery (to the black wire on my multimeter) and put a scotchlock in the green wire (signal back from VSS toward PCM) and drove around. Nada, I have zero signal. At startup I have a very slight read, like .05v, but it doesnt get any higher. I went back there and the connector was broken on one side (the click in ear) and I noticed that I could easily pull it off without any hesitation. So...at this point I am going to splice some spade connectors and tape them up well to try and push on to the VSS harness connections, drive it around and see if I get a good sweep of voltage under acceleration.

 

Oh, forgot to add that, yes my Speedo is working fine, but I seem to have no signal from the VSS. Could it be relying on info elsewhere? Tranmission? I do also notice I have intermittent Rear ABS light on....this is starting to make either complete sense, or none.

 

Ok, so....breaking for lunch, but here is where we are. I scotchlocked in a jumper wire and drove around, reading really low. So I cut out the connector and spliced in some wires, nada. Still same low readings. Going to eat my dino-shaped mac and cheese, then just connect the signal wire, run a test wire off the other side of the VSS and see what happens voltage wise while I drive around my yard. If it seems to be acting normally I may have a short in the wire going to the PSOM, if not, then either I got a bad VSS out of the box or....there is a serious problem in the rear. Let's hope for the broken wire...

 

The VSS on the rear axle is the only one. So if the speedo is working it must be gererating a signal. You should probably be looking for a frequency from it rather than a voltage.
Maybe pull the RABS fuse and see if you still get the VSS code.

 

Youre right, I guess that does stand to reason I would be looking for resistance.

What would pulling the (rear antilock fuse I presume?) show me? Could that be affecting this at all? I followed the wire up to the speedo, good continuity from the VSS to the back of the speedo, which is where I presume the signal goes. From the speedo where does it go, ie where else can I check for bad wiring? I figure it has to go to the pcm no? Does it go there after the speedo?

 

I think the signal from the VSS goes to the PSOM at the back of the speedo then to the speedo, the PCM and the RABS computer.
I may be wrong but disabling the RABS may just eliminate it as a possible problem.
I take it that your tach is working properly?

 

The VSS signal feeds into the RABS module. From there it continues on to the PSOM. The PSOM feeds the converted pulses (divided down to ~8000 pulses per mile) to the speedometer and PCM.

 

I am trying to find out where the fuse for it is, (abs) so far no luck but Im going to keep on looking. I did (as per another thread I read) disconnected the speed control module under the hood and took it for a spin, nada. My speedo and tach are working flawlessly. My cruise control does not work, and has never worked since I owned this.

Still only pulling 29 (low input from VSS) and 49 (electronic shift error). Oddly enough it's happening consistently now. It seems as either it shifts into fourth or as the converter locks in third the overdrive light trips. Before today (which is what made my postpone the work I had to get done and dive back into this) it would happen whenever it wanted to....a year ago it would happen once a month or so, in the past month every trip it will happen, and now it is ALWAYS that third to fourth gear, or lockup. It is the fourth time the tach drops as you are accelerating, so I am assuming the converter locking up?

 

If you see four engine speed drops on the tach that means your converter is working - the regular shift pattern is something like 1-2-3-3lock-4lock, which is why this 4-spd trans feels like a 5-speed (as compared to say an AOD that shifts 1-2-3lock-4lock so three upshifts only). The converter actually does unlock before shifting into OD and then immediately locks up again but it's so fast you really can't feel it so for all intents and purposes it feels like she's going from 3lock straight into 4lock.