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The idea is that pre-strained (through cloth) oil is pumped from one drum into a second "clean" drum. I know it would take some time to perform but time is something I have. Does this seem like a decent idea?
I think it could work, although I also believe filtration is the easy part of WVO/biodiesel processing. The challenging part is the dewatering. From what I have seen thus far, through another alternative fuel forum I belong to, a system called the cold upflow system is one of the most effective and cheapest ways of making clear, dry oil. I prefer the heat and settle method since it is quicker, and I spray dry my oil anyway just before I react it to make bio.
Here is a link to one of many threads on the subject of drying wvo, (163 pages worth), so there's plenty of reading:
The 10mic Goldenrod would be a much better idea than any 'oil filter'. (I actually prefer the Nat'l Spencer brand housing National Spencer Farm Filter (NS10) it is clear not 'golden' and the metal does not react with VO like g-rod does) The oil filter is a 'nominal' rated filter - ultimately, you want a 'absolute' rated filter... I get g-rod elements cheapest at Tractor Supply - about $6ea. In my set-up, these filter 100's of gallons and save on the more expensive 2mic filters. I used to use a 10mic WIX filter (24006), but they've gone from $5ea when I started to over $9ea. Oh, and don't waste your money on any kind of 'water-block' filters - they WILL NOT remove water from VO. And, don't use galvanized pipe anywhere in contact with VO....
Hand pump is fine, but a $35ish Harbor Frieght '1" Clear Water Pump' will move all but the coldest oil at between 5 and 10 gals/minute - there is no more economical store-bought electric pump. This pump will not self-prime, you either have to keep head pressure on it or use a check valve/foot valve on the end of your hose to keep liquid in the hose and pump. Also, search on Frybrid for how to turn a $20 SBC oil pump into a sweeeeeet VO pump.
I pre-settle in my 275gal 'collection tote' for a couple weeks after collecting WVO. Then, I drain the nasty off the bottom and pump the rest thru a 200mic nylon screen (paint strainer) into my 275gal 'dirty tote' where it settles for another couple weeks. I have a foot valve on the end of suction hose to HF pump and the end of hose/valve are fastened to a 2 liter bottle that floats on the top of the oil in 'dirty tote'. I pull nice, clean, mostly dry oil off the top and pump it into a water heater. The water heater is re-wired to 110v and only the bottom element is used. I heat to 110-120* MAX and let settle 48hrs. Drain a couple gals off the bottom, then Hot Pan Test. If it is dry, use compressed air to push oil thru g-rod and 2mic filters to a fuel nozzle I use to fill my trucks. Then the VO system heats the oil to 180*+ before the engine...
Someday, I'll set up my gravity-fed centrifuge from WVO Designs and dewater my oil while filtering to under .5mic - ridiculously FASTER than what I'm doing now... time is NOT something I have alot of!!!
__________________ 2001 F350 CC flatbed - headstuds, AC codes, T4/S366, custom leather interior, '07 facelift, big honkin bumper, 180k miles on DIY veggie conversion and a few other things... 2000 Excursion, Limited, 4x4, BTS trans, 120k on veggie! - wrecked spring 2013 - RIP veggiegarage.com authorized installer
Bio-diesel, Propane & Alternative Diesel Engine Fuels
01-04-2007 09:11 PM
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