352 FE "S-Code" 4-BBL Intake Manifold
#1
352 FE "S-Code" 4-BBL Intake Manifold
Hi -
I have an opportunity to buy a 4-barrel "S-Code" cast iron intake manifold for my 1966 Ford F100 that has the stock 352 V-8 engine with 2-barrel carb. From what I've researched, it sounds like the 4-barrel intake will perform slightly better and get better mpg than the stock setup. Is switching to a 4-barrel setup worthwhile? Also, how much is an "S-Code" intake worth?
Thanks!
Dan M.
1966 Ford F100 (x2)
I have an opportunity to buy a 4-barrel "S-Code" cast iron intake manifold for my 1966 Ford F100 that has the stock 352 V-8 engine with 2-barrel carb. From what I've researched, it sounds like the 4-barrel intake will perform slightly better and get better mpg than the stock setup. Is switching to a 4-barrel setup worthwhile? Also, how much is an "S-Code" intake worth?
Thanks!
Dan M.
1966 Ford F100 (x2)
#2
Depends on how much they are asking?
I moved to a 4-barrel. In fact, I would try and find an aluminum intake manifold. I picked one up with a Carter carb with an electric choke on it at a swap meet for $200. The rebuild kit on the carb only cost $15. Those cast iron intakes are sooo heavy. It practically takes a cherry picker just to lift it off the block (haha).
I moved to a 4-barrel. In fact, I would try and find an aluminum intake manifold. I picked one up with a Carter carb with an electric choke on it at a swap meet for $200. The rebuild kit on the carb only cost $15. Those cast iron intakes are sooo heavy. It practically takes a cherry picker just to lift it off the block (haha).
#3
#4
352 "S Code" 4-BBL Intake Manifold
S is the VIN engine code for 1966/69 390 4V Passenger Cars.
No 352 came from the factory after 1964 w/a 4V, all were 2V's.
The manifold will fit, I had one on my 1965 F100, but it's heavy, weighs around 90 lbs. and you will also need a 4V carburetor and linkage.
#5
I was disappointed when I added a 4 barrel to my truck. When I rebuilt the engine and specked it towards using a 4 barrel it performed better.
While our resident parts number guru claims no knowledge, some of us unlearned know the street lingo, and can provide photos to show that we can relate.
4 barrel intake known as S, recognized on the front runner.
John
While our resident parts number guru claims no knowledge, some of us unlearned know the street lingo, and can provide photos to show that we can relate.
4 barrel intake known as S, recognized on the front runner.
John
#7
1966/69 390 4V Passenger Car Intake Manifold. 1965 is different, as the thermostat is larger in diameter, has a C5AE casting number prefix. 1958/64 has the provision for the oil fill tube.
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#8
Thanks Guys! It is my understanding that there never was a factory 4-bbl intake for a 352. The 4-bbl intake I'm looking at supposedly came off of a 390 passenger car like Bill suggests. I still would like to know what the stock cast iron "S-code" 4-bbl intake is really worth. Is there any performance difference between an "S-code" 4-bbl intake and a "non-S-code" 4-bbl intake?
Thanks,
Dan M.
Thanks,
Dan M.
#11
i did a lot of research on this when i built my 390. in terms of performance, i dont think they are worth anything more than any other fe manifold. i put 4bbl fe manifolds out by the dumspter for the scrap guys to take i dont know the numbers anymore but i recall the flow from a 60's car intake is about the same as a 70's truck intake which is about the same as an S-code intake. If anything, the early 60s manifolds could be better than the later s-code one??.
I owned a Z code 63 galaxie, and have seen my share of s-code mustangs... visually speaking the runners and everything appear very similar, and similar tolater 4bbl truck intakes. The performer and/or performer rpm flow better and wiegh less than half the stock 4bbl intake. a mustang guy doing a concorse restoration will probabaly pay a pretty penny for a year correct s code intake. but if you are just buying one for your 352, save yourself some cash and pull one off a truck in the boneyard. or if you are looking for performance, get an aftermarket aluminum one (you can find them used from time to time)
I owned a Z code 63 galaxie, and have seen my share of s-code mustangs... visually speaking the runners and everything appear very similar, and similar tolater 4bbl truck intakes. The performer and/or performer rpm flow better and wiegh less than half the stock 4bbl intake. a mustang guy doing a concorse restoration will probabaly pay a pretty penny for a year correct s code intake. but if you are just buying one for your 352, save yourself some cash and pull one off a truck in the boneyard. or if you are looking for performance, get an aftermarket aluminum one (you can find them used from time to time)
#12
Thanks Guys! It is my understanding that there never was a factory 4-bbl intake for a 352. The 4-bbl intake I'm looking at supposedly came off of a 390 passenger car like Bill suggests. I still would like to know what the stock cast iron "S-code" 4-bbl intake is really worth. Is there any performance difference between an "S-code" 4-bbl intake and a "non-S-code" 4-bbl intake?
Thanks,
Dan M.
Thanks,
Dan M.
Guys are paying more than I will, but I'd range the intake price at $50-150.00, much over and I'd look at alum. If you are building a drag truck every ounce off is good, for a daily driver what's another 50 pounds in the real world.
John
#13
#14
I can't quote you numbers but I have been around these FE parts for years and if you are looking for the "performance" cast iron FE intake look at the tallness of the runners. The #1 port on a, lets say, Thunderbird intake actually has to raise up to meet the port on the head. This lowers the runners. These intakes were made that way to allow for hood clearance for the carb and air cleaner, I assume. On the performance intake where they didn't care about clearance the whole set of runners is higher, if you look at the #1 port and it dosen't dip, for my money it's a better intake. "S Code" or not. As far as the weight issue, for me the main drawback it changing it. I do use the cherry picker on the cast iron ones.
#15
Dan M.,
What is your expected outcome?
If your F100, '66 stock 352 still has the same 40+ year old camshaft in it, then I doubt a 'S' manifold or even an aluminum Edelbrock manifold would give you much of a seat-of-the-pants performance difference.
Recall what John said,
ONLY AFTER John freshened his engine and installed a new camshaft designed to be run in combination with a 4-barrel, THEN he noticed the performance difference.
So, unless you plan to freshen your engine and quite likely move up to a "performance" camshaft profile sometime in the near future, the manifold/carb swap won't do much for ya now.
BarnieTrk
P.S.
If an engine still has good compression at all cylinders, I have found that by just putting an EXCELLENT QUALITY tune up on the stock engine ( by a quality tune up I mean using all new Autolite/Motorcraft-quality stuff -- sparkplugs (properly gapped), sparkplug & coil wires, distributor cap, rotor, points (properly gapped), fuel filter, carb rebuild kit, air cleaner, check/adjust the rocker arm clearances, check the output or replace the ignition coil) you can make a MAJOR improvement in the performance department. If the engine is tired with poor compression, then changing to a 4 barrel intake and carb WON'T make it a hot rod.
What is your expected outcome?
If your F100, '66 stock 352 still has the same 40+ year old camshaft in it, then I doubt a 'S' manifold or even an aluminum Edelbrock manifold would give you much of a seat-of-the-pants performance difference.
Recall what John said,
So, unless you plan to freshen your engine and quite likely move up to a "performance" camshaft profile sometime in the near future, the manifold/carb swap won't do much for ya now.
BarnieTrk
P.S.
If an engine still has good compression at all cylinders, I have found that by just putting an EXCELLENT QUALITY tune up on the stock engine ( by a quality tune up I mean using all new Autolite/Motorcraft-quality stuff -- sparkplugs (properly gapped), sparkplug & coil wires, distributor cap, rotor, points (properly gapped), fuel filter, carb rebuild kit, air cleaner, check/adjust the rocker arm clearances, check the output or replace the ignition coil) you can make a MAJOR improvement in the performance department. If the engine is tired with poor compression, then changing to a 4 barrel intake and carb WON'T make it a hot rod.