So my brake line rusted out and started leaking between the fuel tank and the frame rail. It seems that Ford doesn't sell a pre-bent replacement. Instead of bending my own tubing are there any other options? Is it 1/4"?

 

That is the same place mine blew out on Friday Chris. I have to replace it as well.

 

I have gotten pre-bent stainless lines for other projects from Inline Tube before, and was very happy with the product. Unfortunately I just look a look at their web site and it doesn't look like they have anything for trucks as "new" as ours are

I would go with a stainless replacement if at all possible. Generally they are not all that much more expensive then steel ones. I'm gonna keep looking online and will post up if I find any links.

 

You can add a new section in if part of the line is still good.you will need a double flair tool , a couple couplings and a new piece of brake line

 

My whole line looks like its about to fall apart. Is there any kind of flexible tubing that can be used? I really don't feel like taking off the bed or dropping the tank, but I think I don't have much of a choice.

 

Chris - my truck is a northern truck and I blew a line while stopping at a light. luckily no one was in front of me. When I climbed under the truck I saw the whole line was shot. Bought a few of the longest lines from autozone (8ft lengths I think) and replaced them all. I would rec. doing the whole thing tho for safety.

 

Thats what i did when i had my brake line go bad between the rail and tank!I just fished the new line through and used coupling to connect the new line!So it can be done,but some ppl just pull the tank!

 

What size was the line? This way I can get it before I cut it out of there.

 

hey guys?
steel tubing comes in 25foot rolls..
just feed it through like you would a wire in a wall.. slip on a tube nut, double flare, bleed, drive.

 

It doesn't look like you have done the Hutch/Harpoon mods yet. Get the 8' bendable line from AZ/NAPA/Advance. There is a joint close to the fuel pump that you can disconnect. Disconnect the back joint. Persuade your new flexible tubing to the general vacinity.

When you do your hutch/harpoon, you can make your bends a little better and zip tie the line to hold it better.

Mine went out 700 miles from home. Dealer want $300 to fix it, but had to wait overnight. I went through rush hour in both Jacksonville, FL and Birmingham, AL with only the brakes on my camper.

 

I bought the longest sections of line AZ had a union and a couple fittings. It took a hour or so for me to fish it back up the frame like I wanted but it can be done. Make sure to bleed the system good.

 

Thanks for all the input everyone. Well it looks like I'm going to try and fix it this week. Can anyone tell me exactly what I'll need to do it (materials,tools,ect.)? Do you think it would be hard to do without dropping the tank or removing the bed?

 

I just repaired mine several weeks ago.. not to bad of a job, time consuming some what.. I want to say I bought 2-5 foot sections and 1 3 foot section.. I have a srw crew cab short bed.. I did have to drop the tank.( went ahead and done the hutch/harpoon mods). I was able to remove the line in one section with out bending it.. Its a little tricky around the Fuel pump..I took the old line and put it in a vise/laid new line over it and started bending to match old line..I did make sure to not have any connections behind the tank..all in all not to bad,just make sure line doesnt rub anywhere on frame..I bought my line from napa it has a pvc coating to prevent rust..