Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Older, Classic & Antique Trucks > 1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?


1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Reply
 
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 08-14-2010, 10:05 PM
CdnWillyG's Avatar
CdnWillyG CdnWillyG is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Stony Plain,AB Canada
Posts: 370
CdnWillyG is starting off with a positive reputation.
F100 Drip rail removal

Went to a car show today and saw a 54 Merc F100 with its drip rails removed...must have this on my truck!
Click the image to open in full size.
Any cautions, tips, or advice on how to get this done? I have been told it could cause major grief if not done right.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 08-14-2010, 10:10 PM
sdetweil's Avatar
sdetweil sdetweil is offline
Post Fiend
 
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Liberty Hill, tx
Posts: 9,732
sdetweil has much to be proud ofsdetweil has much to be proud ofsdetweil has much to be proud ofsdetweil has much to be proud ofsdetweil has much to be proud ofsdetweil has much to be proud ofsdetweil has much to be proud ofsdetweil has much to be proud ofsdetweil has much to be proud ofsdetweil has much to be proud of
do it slow.. one section at a time.. cut, weld closed,
cut, weld closed.. repeat.. 2-3 inches at a time.

removed on my 55.

note to self, round the top front corner of the door and cab to match

no other closeups

you have to fill and make the edge to match the cab lip

Sam
Attached Images
   
__________________
Sam

1955 F100 460/c6, 3.55ls - 436 hp, 489 tq
2012 F350 4x4, DRW, 3.73ls, CC, LB, 400 hp, 800 tq
2013 Keystone Alpine 3720FB 5th wheel. 40', 15,500gvwr
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 08-14-2010, 10:13 PM
52 Merc's Avatar
52 Merc 52 Merc is offline
Post Fiend
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Kennewick, WA
Posts: 5,752
52 Merc is a name known to all52 Merc is a name known to all52 Merc is a name known to all52 Merc is a name known to all52 Merc is a name known to all52 Merc is a name known to all
I suppose you were probably told correct. The drip rail is one of several pieces of metal sandwiched and spot welded together around the perimiter of the roof skin and the inner structure. Seam sealer is layed in the trough to keep moisture from entering the "sandwich." Removing the drip rail leaves an open gap that needs to be sealed shut by continuous welding all around the cab. It's a lot of work of welding and grinding and filling and smoothing. But the end results, as you've noticed, are quite striking.
__________________

Wayne
52 Mercury M-1
among other things.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 08-14-2010, 11:09 PM
CdnWillyG's Avatar
CdnWillyG CdnWillyG is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Stony Plain,AB Canada
Posts: 370
CdnWillyG is starting off with a positive reputation.
Sam, as you cut and welded the 2-3" openings do you jump around the drip rail(opposite ends for example), like when you weld up a seam or can you go in a continuous line? When you said you have to make the edge match the cab lip, is that the part from the roof skin to the window raised part? On a scale of 1-10 how difficult is it, if lets say filling up the back roof seam and getting it straight is a 3?
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 08-14-2010, 11:36 PM
sdetweil's Avatar
sdetweil sdetweil is offline
Post Fiend
 
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Liberty Hill, tx
Posts: 9,732
sdetweil has much to be proud ofsdetweil has much to be proud ofsdetweil has much to be proud ofsdetweil has much to be proud ofsdetweil has much to be proud ofsdetweil has much to be proud ofsdetweil has much to be proud ofsdetweil has much to be proud ofsdetweil has much to be proud ofsdetweil has much to be proud of
yes, you have to move around, sheet metal is sheet metal.. same rules apply.. hard part is when you get closer to the middle..

I'd say this is an 8..

yes, the part from the back edge of the door, over the door and around the front of the cab.. the back edge is easy, and over the door is pretty easy as the drip rail sits right at this line.. but on the front, there is no ridge, u have to form it yourself.
you can see the ridge in the second photo over the door edge.. but over the windshield once you cut out the drip rail it gets flat, so that ridge disappears and looks weird

I have a pic of a 54 from GoodGuys Tx that had a shaved rail and it was just flat here.. can't find it at the moment..

Sam
Attached Images
  
__________________
Sam

1955 F100 460/c6, 3.55ls - 436 hp, 489 tq
2012 F350 4x4, DRW, 3.73ls, CC, LB, 400 hp, 800 tq
2013 Keystone Alpine 3720FB 5th wheel. 40', 15,500gvwr
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 08-15-2010, 01:03 AM
whateg01's Avatar
whateg01 whateg01 is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Wichita, KS
Posts: 467
whateg01 is starting off with a positive reputation.
This came up in a discussion at work the other day... I'm thinking of shaving the drip rail on my project truck because it is in pretty bad shape and will probably need to be reconstructed if I don't. But when you shave the drip rail, do you have to do anything extra to keep the weather from entering the cab around the top of the door?

Dave
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 08-15-2010, 01:20 AM
AXracer's Avatar
AXracer AXracer is offline
Post Fiend
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Durham NC
Posts: 14,472
AXracer is a splendid one to beholdAXracer is a splendid one to beholdAXracer is a splendid one to beholdAXracer is a splendid one to beholdAXracer is a splendid one to beholdAXracer is a splendid one to beholdAXracer is a splendid one to behold
Chuck Frank
Quote:
Originally Posted by whateg01 View Post
This came up in a discussion at work the other day... I'm thinking of shaving the drip rail on my project truck because it is in pretty bad shape and will probably need to be reconstructed if I don't. But when you shave the drip rail, do you have to do anything extra to keep the weather from entering the cab around the top of the door?

Dave
Don't drive in bad weather???



(serious answer) Make sure to adjust the door so the weather stripping actually seals. Test with a sheet of printer paper closed in the door. I agree with the note to self: rounding the upper front corner of the door should be part of the process.
__________________
Passionate about autocross racing!

1956 F100 Panel "GRACIE"
2007 Solstice GXP racer, the "KRAZED KANARY"
Third place finish 2009 SCCA National Championships
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 08-15-2010, 07:55 AM
sdetweil's Avatar
sdetweil sdetweil is offline
Post Fiend
 
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Liberty Hill, tx
Posts: 9,732
sdetweil has much to be proud ofsdetweil has much to be proud ofsdetweil has much to be proud ofsdetweil has much to be proud ofsdetweil has much to be proud ofsdetweil has much to be proud ofsdetweil has much to be proud ofsdetweil has much to be proud ofsdetweil has much to be proud ofsdetweil has much to be proud of
Quote:
Originally Posted by whateg01 View Post
This came up in a discussion at work the other day... I'm thinking of shaving the drip rail on my project truck because it is in pretty bad shape and will probably need to be reconstructed if I don't. But when you shave the drip rail, do you have to do anything extra to keep the weather from entering the cab around the top of the door?

Dave
no..

thats one of the reasons you need that ridge continued, water deflection..

but as AX said, the door gasket will need to work here..

Sam
__________________
Sam

1955 F100 460/c6, 3.55ls - 436 hp, 489 tq
2012 F350 4x4, DRW, 3.73ls, CC, LB, 400 hp, 800 tq
2013 Keystone Alpine 3720FB 5th wheel. 40', 15,500gvwr
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 08-15-2010, 02:41 PM
whateg01's Avatar
whateg01 whateg01 is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Wichita, KS
Posts: 467
whateg01 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Ok. That was kinda what I had guessed, but having never done one like this, wasn't sure. IMHO, it seems like for a vehicle that might get driven in the rain occasionally, it would be ok to shave the drip rails, but for a vehicle that gets driven daily, sometimes in heavy rain, it might be better not to tempt fate and just leave the drip rails in place. Now I gotta think this over a bit...

Dave
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 08-15-2010, 08:04 PM
CdnWillyG's Avatar
CdnWillyG CdnWillyG is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Stony Plain,AB Canada
Posts: 370
CdnWillyG is starting off with a positive reputation.
Sam, in building the front cab ridge to match the door ridge, what did you do? If this is made out of metal how did you build it?
I would like to see the pic without the ridge as I didn't realize that this was not the result of just cutting the drip rail off.
Not sure I have the tools or the ability to take that on!
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 08-15-2010, 08:42 PM
sdetweil's Avatar
sdetweil sdetweil is offline
Post Fiend
 
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Liberty Hill, tx
Posts: 9,732
sdetweil has much to be proud ofsdetweil has much to be proud ofsdetweil has much to be proud ofsdetweil has much to be proud ofsdetweil has much to be proud ofsdetweil has much to be proud ofsdetweil has much to be proud ofsdetweil has much to be proud ofsdetweil has much to be proud ofsdetweil has much to be proud of
Quote:
Originally Posted by whateg01 View Post
Ok. That was kinda what I had guessed, but having never done one like this, wasn't sure. IMHO, it seems like for a vehicle that might get driven in the rain occasionally, it would be ok to shave the drip rails, but for a vehicle that gets driven daily, sometimes in heavy rain, it might be better not to tempt fate and just leave the drip rails in place. Now I gotta think this over a bit...

Dave
yes, mine is a show truck.. not a daily driver

had its first rain experience last month at Pigeon Forge..

there is a seam at the top front of the door, on the body side.. I did not have the door gasket right, and the water flowed in there.. still have to fix that, but am going to put on the hollow core gaskets (when its cool enough to go out in the shop again)

Sam
__________________
Sam

1955 F100 460/c6, 3.55ls - 436 hp, 489 tq
2012 F350 4x4, DRW, 3.73ls, CC, LB, 400 hp, 800 tq
2013 Keystone Alpine 3720FB 5th wheel. 40', 15,500gvwr
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 08-15-2010, 08:46 PM
sdetweil's Avatar
sdetweil sdetweil is offline
Post Fiend
 
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Liberty Hill, tx
Posts: 9,732
sdetweil has much to be proud ofsdetweil has much to be proud ofsdetweil has much to be proud ofsdetweil has much to be proud ofsdetweil has much to be proud ofsdetweil has much to be proud ofsdetweil has much to be proud ofsdetweil has much to be proud ofsdetweil has much to be proud ofsdetweil has much to be proud of
Quote:
Originally Posted by CdnWillyG View Post
Sam, in building the front cab ridge to match the door ridge, what did you do? If this is made out of metal how did you build it?
I would like to see the pic without the ridge as I didn't realize that this was not the result of just cutting the drip rail off.
Not sure I have the tools or the ability to take that on!
I don't have a pic of the front with just the drip rail shaved off.
I am disappointed about that.

I will take some pics of my 54 cab in the shop (still with drip rail) probably tomorrow

Sam
__________________
Sam

1955 F100 460/c6, 3.55ls - 436 hp, 489 tq
2012 F350 4x4, DRW, 3.73ls, CC, LB, 400 hp, 800 tq
2013 Keystone Alpine 3720FB 5th wheel. 40', 15,500gvwr
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 08-15-2010, 10:30 PM
CdnWillyG's Avatar
CdnWillyG CdnWillyG is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Stony Plain,AB Canada
Posts: 370
CdnWillyG is starting off with a positive reputation.
Sam forget my earlier question but....
Quote:
Originally Posted by sdetweil View Post
do it slow.. one section at a time.. cut, weld closed,
cut, weld closed.. repeat.. 2-3 inches at a time.

removed on my 55.

note to self, round the top front corner of the door and cab to match

no other closeups

you have to fill and make the edge to match the cab lip

Sam
What are you meaning about your comment "you have to fill and make the edge to match the cab lip"? Is this about rounding of the door corner and then making the lip match that?
After looking at the drip rail on my truck that raised ridge is there all across the front of the cab, which will remain once the drip rail is cut off. I don't think this will be that big a deal!
Innocents and no experience maybe coming out here!!
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 08-15-2010, 10:38 PM
sdetweil's Avatar
sdetweil sdetweil is offline
Post Fiend
 
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Liberty Hill, tx
Posts: 9,732
sdetweil has much to be proud ofsdetweil has much to be proud ofsdetweil has much to be proud ofsdetweil has much to be proud ofsdetweil has much to be proud ofsdetweil has much to be proud ofsdetweil has much to be proud ofsdetweil has much to be proud ofsdetweil has much to be proud ofsdetweil has much to be proud of
hm.. as I recall (now 3 yrs back) the ridge over the cab didn't look the same when we took off the rail.. as the ridge over the door.. and we have to do some work to get it all to look the same..

the corner of the door is another problem, just that the picture brought it up..

Sam
__________________
Sam

1955 F100 460/c6, 3.55ls - 436 hp, 489 tq
2012 F350 4x4, DRW, 3.73ls, CC, LB, 400 hp, 800 tq
2013 Keystone Alpine 3720FB 5th wheel. 40', 15,500gvwr
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 08-15-2010, 11:25 PM
e william's Avatar
e william e william is offline
Elder User
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: S.C.
Posts: 927
e william is starting off with a positive reputation.
I'm a fan of the shaved rail as well...just wish I had choped it too...maybe next time! This is a pic just after paint shop, shows the side and rear cab seam filled as well, gives it a smooth oldie look.
Click the image to open in full size.
__________________
What Mama Don't Know....Keeps Daddy Out Of Trouble !!!
Reply With Quote
Old 08-15-2010, 11:25 PM
 
 
 
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
has anybody shaved the drip rails on there 66 juchertf100 1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks 3 09-12-2013 12:33 AM
tips for removing drip rail trim 53-55 bigwin56f100 1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks 9 01-25-2011 04:54 PM
1955 F100 Drip Rail brucewolff 1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks 9 10-18-2004 09:43 AM
removing drip rails nate5812 1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks 2 09-18-2004 11:58 AM
removing drip rail on 67-72 F Series gtex Paint & Bodywork 1 05-04-2003 06:10 PM


Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Older, Classic & Antique Trucks > 1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks

Tags
1955, 54, cab, drip, f100, filing, ford, front, rail, rails, reason, reconstructed, seam, shaved, truck

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

Forum Jump


Participate In The Forums

Create new posts and participate in discussions. It's free!

Sign Up »





All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:31 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7 AC1
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Advertising - Terms of Use - Privacy Statement - Jobs
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford® is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.

vbulletin Admin Backup