So I picked up this dual quad manifold off of Ebay to use on my 292 in the 64 F100 and I would really like to find out more about it.
There are several casting numbers, one that looks like a date, but nothing that points to a manufacturer.
Can anyone help me with this?

Thank you in advance.

Here's a pic from above


Here is the casting that looks like a date 5 28 57


Bottom view


Casting numbers on the bottom


The S casting on the bottom


and the casting that looks like ECG9424-D

 

This is a ford factory manifold for a 1957 "E" code 312 engine. 'Timmys Y block page' has a writeup on it. Says you need a special valley pan for it. If you dont have that talk to murmmet as he may have a solution for you.

I may be wrong here but I belive the "S" means service part. So it was probobly not original.

You are going to have to have some low gears and high revs to run that on a 292 buddy. That is alot of AF potential on a street 292 and will probobly drive like $#1T.

 

Factory Ford huh? Well I am very surprised to hear that. Cool though, thanks for the info.

I know it's prolly going to be a major pain to run on my 292, but I feel that I can make it work and if I can I'll be pretty excited. I will love the look on my truck. We'll see if I can pull it off.

 

That manifold should perform quite well. It's about equal to the Blue Thunder manifold.
It's very close to the ECZ-B single 4 manifold up to about 3500rpm. After that, the dual quad manifold dominates.

Third set of graphs down: Intake manifold testing on the new heads

 

It will work. Just run like crap with a ton of boggin and poor fuel economy.

This was designed to be used in stock class drag racing. Not on a street car.
You need a lumpy cam, big valve heads, high CR, hipo exhaust. And lots of hot spark.

This is a racing manifold man. For puling standard quarters against a 283 HIPO chevy belair in your Tbird. Swap in a set of 5.70 gears and build the gills out of the engine. Install a lenco and a rollcage and go run at the drags. If not sell it for a profit and buy a blue thunder or a standard iron "B" manifold.

 

I know others will tell you differently but I am firmly set on this being a poor idea for a driven vehicle.

90% of people over carb engines.

Find two teapots. A carb that is not that great to begin with. Now get two of them running correctly?

Yes it can be done folks. WHy did ford only use the teapot for 3 years? They suck! I want one for nostalgia purposes, but that is it. Tuning this is going to be a pain. Do what you like but I have to say this is a race manifold not a street manifold. I got a pretty stiff spring in my holley 390 and still experience lean bog at WOT! this would suck if you decided to ram it to the floor at a stoplight. UGH! Everyone wants to overcarb every engine. All those 650 and 750 carbs sitting on 302 fords and 350 chevys are nearly half again too big.. That is why they suck so much fuel and have a pause upon acceleration.

The huge carbs and intakes mounted on stock engines of the 50s-early 70s are due to stock class drag racing. Not for any other purpose. Yes they can run. But poorly in street vehicles.

Look at the graphs.

THis is a 322 CID stroker engine with murmmets high CR big valve heads. Not a 292 with C1TE heads. YOur CR is about 7.9 vs that engines 10.5. You have a 1.60 intake vs the 1.90 on the aftermarket heads. He was probobly running into a set of straight dumped headers on a test stand in a climate controled dyno lab. His intake and carbs have probly been tuned on a flow bench with the benifit of a O2 sensor for finishing. There is a large difference between a bench dyno toy engine and somthing you drive on the street.

Murrmet is great at what he does but this is an apples and oranges scenario. Not peaches and necterines.

 

I doubt I even want to know the answer to this, but what should you expect to pay for a manifold like this?

 

I respectfully disagree. Have you seen an E-code perform in person or go for a ride in one? Come to the Y-Block nationals. You may just see an E-code or two. They have what I would call good street characteristics when set up right. Mileage won't be the best but who uses dual 4s for mileage.

I will agree that for the absolutely best low end street performance, the iron manifold is the way to go but based on what I've seen and experienced and the dyno testing which now confirms it, the e-code is no slouch on the street or strip.

Now if we're talking about the whole package, I don't know what it will do on a low compression truck motor. I can speculate but I have not experienced that in any way. I've only seen them on genuine e-codes which are higher compression, with bigger valves and bigger cams.

 

I hear you, and honestly I feel you too. Maybe I won't be able to get it working the way I want, but I'm still hoping I will.
I have access to some pretty good engine builders and fabricators and I'm hoping that I can find some way to fun this manifold and have the truck run right.
If I can't, well then I'll go back to the drawing board and use a BT or some other manifold I guess.
Thanks for the imput, I am sure you're right, but I hope not.

 

I have no experience with the manifold. But it makes sense that it wasnt designed for a 7.5 compression ratio stock 64 292. To use it well will take a lot of engine work.

 

It won't be stock for long. ;-)

 

We called the carbs you need "Mars Tops" back in the late '50s and they can be made to run good. That intake came from a 245(?) or 270 hp 312 engine. They had higher compression and an Isky E2 cam. You will have a hard time getting the usual carbs to work as the originals were a matched pair and they are very highly prized now and have been for a lot of years. You might be able to find a set up at one of the T-Bird restoration shops or sites. Good luck with it.

 

I immagine 200-350 ish.

You can sell this to pay for a "B" manifold and a used carb. plus a pertronix setup.

Sorry man this thing is for racing on an engine designed for racing. Not grandpas seed hauler.

 

I think it will be fine.

I was trying to figure out where you got the 322 stroker from. The motor used in the test I referenced is not a stroker. It's a .060 over 312 (322.04). No fancy bottom end. With stock G heads it has 9.2:1 compression. Full specs of the cam are not listed but 238@.050 and 110 separation is given. It's representative of a hot rodder's typical engine (and prety close to the build of a stock e-code engine). It's far from a racing engine but it is far different than a truck engine
The aluminum heads were used because the iron heads would have capped the power at about 290hp and as can be seen, the potential of the manifolds would not have been realized.
With all this in mind, the 10 to 15 ftlbs shortfall of the 2-4 from 2500 to 3300 vs the iron single 4 is not much and it's still over 295ftlbs from 2500rpm. At that low an rpm, there is not much difference between the aluminum and iron heads.

Fakirone, keep us posted. I'm curious to hear how it turns out.

 

I got one tea pot. Or flame thrower as my brother calls it if you are interested.