Well I'm looking for headers now... Found a place that does 5% off...

 

I'll ask again: What's wrong with the set of headers you already have?

Stewart

 

Im interested in this project. Please post pics if you happen to take some. Im bad at that because I get caught up in the project and I usually dont want to get grubby hands all over my phone.

 

"Lifetime stainless steel construction never cracks or blows"

Send them a question on what grade stainless these are. If they are 409 they are over priced by about $300

 

They have the EGR bung, an extra o2 sensor bung and bad memories of a wasted weekend There is so much else I could have done both with my truck and just in general with Matt and Razzi when I was visiting them in Houston and instead I was fighting these headers. I wish I had got to spend more one on one time just hanging out with Razzi. The few hours we did spend just talking the two of us was awesome. You don't find many people in this world worth the time to hang out with much less want to hang out with. Razzi and I had a lot in common and agreed on a lot of things and instead of sitting back and relaxing and having "The best weekend ever" I had to **** with these damn headers.


That being said... if Snowseeker thinks a local shop should be able to remove and cover the 2 bungs then I'm fine with wrapping them in header wrap and slapping them on

 

Just put a threaded plug in...in case you need the bung later. In my carbureted car I use the bung for O2 and to measure back pressure. There may be times where you need an independent AFR measurement. If you need plugs, let me know.

 

Absolutely they could be plugged, welded shut, or removed and patched. I wish I would have known when they were here I could have covered them.

I have some o2 bung plugs (lol) laying around somewhere I could send you if I could find them.

 

I put the Hellwig on the Ex
Replaces passenger side universal joint
replaces all the seals and the Needle bearing (bad universal took it out)

Going Camping this weekend about a 100 mile back road tow with new Strait-line hitch new Shocks and the Hellwig hope it helps.

 

It seems relative to the area. I have been looking at some of the 16" lariat wheels for my truck and they go from $300-700 depending on tires.

 

I sold my 2002 limited rims for $400 with some bald, dry rotted Pirellis on them. After selling the 4 Harley center caps for $100.... my Harley rims only ended up costing me $50. lmao

 

Plugging the EGR bung is easy enough, how many O2 bungs are there? Your V-10 needs 2. Every set of wrapped headers on street cars I have ever had anything to do with developed cracks, I think wrap only belongs on a track car's headers personally.
If you buy new headers they will be used headers just like your current Borlas in a week.
When I was shopping for mine Banks direct offered me 20% off list with free shipping.

 

Snow, I really don't know the answer but from my reading and research on the subject it's my understanding that the 300 series stainless is the true stainless steel and will remain bright (with heat coloring) but is more brittle (especially near welds without proper post weld heat treating) and prone to cracking. The 400 series stainless will develope a certain amount of surface oxidation and will attract a magnet but is less brittle and less affected by localized weld heating making it less prone to cracking without post weld heat treating.
I read a few online articles on this and my refinery metallurgical inspector agrees as does the one contractor we use for our post weld heat treating on our more exotic metals. Various code certified pipe fitter welders also said basically the same thing too. But like I said, I really don't know, just passing on what I've been told. I have gone through several sets of various makers and quality headers on street and track cars, all the SS ones lasted better than the carbon steel ones and so far my 400 series Banks do have a light oxidation on them and are otherwise doing fine.

 

Which heat shield gave you the biggest problem and needed modification? I must have tried 20 times to get that starter motor shield in place on mine!

I had the wrap in my garage from when we used to race Quartermidgets, we wrapped those pipes to save our hands and forearms while doing frequent gear swaps on hot cars. I still have some around I think, how much do you need?

 

The one that caused me the most pain was the driver side one. I had no idea where to connect the brace for it. I used the hole where the axle breather was at up front to bolt the front of the shield up. The instructions said mount it to the sway bar endlink, and I was like.... wtf? I eventually went ahead and pulled it off, and then turned out the hole was too small, and then I ended up having to re bend it so it didn't touch the end link. After that it all lined up and went into the supplied hole.

I got lucky and my starter heat shield went right in! Thanks to Tom and Christina's awesome pictures!

The only places I worry about not having enough heat shielding on my brake lines on the passenger side. Mine came with a little fiberglass wrapped in foil sort of "blanket" but I don't think it is long enough. I might make my own sheet metal heat shield, kinda like the one on the driver side next time I take the fender wells out.

I don't think I would need very much to wrap up what's left. I actually have quite a bit of room away from the majority of it that isn't shielded by the parts that came from Banks. I'll be keeping an eye on things the next few weeks to make sure that nothing is getting too hot and melting. Anything under the hood is designed to take a decent amount of heat, but you can't be too careful!

 

It's done all the time.

^^^This.

Awesome offer!

Stewart