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Home Safe! 620 miles later. Road was in Awesome shape! went much faster then i thought. All the traffic was heading out of town as we were heading in, made great time.
Snow, I really don't know the answer but from my reading and research on the subject it's my understanding that the 300 series stainless is the true stainless steel and will remain bright (with heat coloring) but is more brittle (especially near welds without proper post weld heat treating) and prone to cracking. The 400 series stainless will develope a certain amount of surface oxidation and will attract a magnet but is less brittle and less affected by localized weld heating making it less prone to cracking without post weld heat treating.
I read a few online articles on this and my refinery metallurgical inspector agrees as does the one contractor we use for our post weld heat treating on our more exotic metals. Various code certified pipe fitter welders also said basically the same thing too. But like I said, I really don't know, just passing on what I've been told. I have gone through several sets of various makers and quality headers on street and track cars, all the SS ones lasted better than the carbon steel ones and so far my 400 series Banks do have a light oxidation on them and are otherwise doing fine.
I have personally fixed more cracked 409 exhausts and headers (apocs for one) than other metals but that may be because if a company skimps out on the stainless they also skimp out on thickness as well making them as thin as possible to save every penny possible and make the final product "ebay cheap".
Normally 300 grade stainless has more nickle in it which is known to be "softer" and more forgiving which is why many times people use 308 as the go to filler for cast weld repairs.
I agree any stainless is more prone to cracking than mild steel and poor welding processes amplify this. Stainless needs to be covered from all sides while welding to keep from "sugaring" which happens when impurities (contamination) enter the weld from the air. It make the weld react and bubble up and get hairline fractures and cracks in it that isn't visible from the front side (weld side) all the time. This sugaring is what makes stainless crack along or down the middle of welds. "Back purging" with argon gas is how this is prevented most times. It does help in pretty much all metals being welded that doesn't have some sort of backing.
I will say 409 is better than just plain steel but I feel not by much. It does rot out, it rusts, and cracks and all. Personally I use it and consider it as a "steel", I don't consider 409 a "stainless" since it isn't actually stain-less. When I want or if a customer wants stainless I always always go for a 300 grade.
I have personally fixed more cracked 409 exhausts and headers (apocs for one) than other metals but that may be because if a company skimps out on the stainless they also skimp out on thickness as well making them as thin as possible to save every penny possible and make the final product "ebay cheap".
Normally 300 grade stainless has more nickle in it which is known to be "softer" and more forgiving which is why many times people use 308 as the go to filler for cast weld repairs.
I agree any stainless is more prone to cracking than mild steel and poor welding processes amplify this. Stainless needs to be covered from all sides while welding to keep from "sugaring" which happens when impurities (contamination) enter the weld from the air. It make the weld react and bubble up and get hairline fractures and cracks in it that isn't visible from the front side (weld side) all the time. This sugaring is what makes stainless crack along or down the middle of welds. "Back purging" with argon gas is how this is prevented most times. It does help in pretty much all metals being welded that doesn't have some sort of backing.
I will say 409 is better than just plain steel but I feel not by much. It does rot out, it rusts, and cracks and all. Personally I use it and consider it as a "steel", I don't consider 409 a "stainless" since it isn't actually stain-less. When I want or if a customer wants stainless I always always go for a 300 grade.
So the Banks torque tubes are low quality stainless and they will crack like the other brands?
I think Michael dropped off the forum for the weekend. He's probably sitting in a mud bath being fanned by naked virgins and being fed grapes as Kenny G plays in the background... not a CD, but THE Kenny G.
If you're out in the Eastern part let me know! Wendy somehow got a 4 day weekend and we would love to meet you guys
Originally Posted by 2wdDezlX
We can also meet up if available this weekend!
Originally Posted by Apocalypse
I think Michael dropped off the forum for the weekend. He's probably sitting in a mud bath being fanned by naked virgins and being fed grapes as Kenny G plays in the background... not a CD, but THE Kenny G.
We will be staying in Garlinburg until Monday... than most likely shoot down to Savannah for 1 night and I'm not sure yet but either 1 or 2 night at a beach house around st Augustine. Or Mecdac might even invite us to stay at his compound in JO-JUH .
In other related excursion news, she's running great! I had a country boy with a hot tune (rolling coal) come up next to me at a light yesterday. His Cummings didn't stand a chance it felt great representing the 6.0 class. Now my wife knows why I only run my tuner in stage 3 (my mild version of rolling coal).
My only problem, seams like all this teasing Nate about deletes has come back to haunt me. My rear drivers side cladding is starting to separate, I'm thinking it's all the damn humidity in florida.
Well my other problem is there's no freakin car washes here that I fit in or someone to hand wash. I see a business opportunity
Better get that fixed Michael, it's a slippery slope!
Picked up my CAT delete yesterday...... Unfortunately my muffler delete was delayed even though they came from the same place and left at the same time. Will have to make another trip to the border later this month to pick it up along with my Powerstroke badges (I won).
Better get that fixed Michael, it's a slippery slope!
Picked up my CAT delete yesterday...... Unfortunately my muffler delete was delayed even though they came from the same place and left at the same time. Will have to make another trip to the border later this month to pick it up along with my Powerstroke badges (I won).
Cheers,
Nate
I sleep with my exhaust parts before installing them too.
Installed some fog lights. Rigid's new DOT approved jobbies. Will try and snap some beam pics tonight when I adjust them. They have a very flat/wide beam to them.
Yesterday afternoon I tackled my spark plugs and boots. Was bad, but not as bad as I was expecting, haha. Took maybe 2 1/2 hours, but I wasn't trying to rush at all. Plugs weren't all that bad really, but a lot of the boots were pretty dry, and the holes had a lot of dirt and stuff in them. A few of the plugs weren't torqued down much, seemed the weight of the ratchet alone broke them loose. No seizing problems at all, and everything torqued down nice Around 150k on the vehicle now, hopefully won't have to do them again for a good while!
05-22-2015, 06:25 PM
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Around 150k on the vehicle now, hopefully won't have to do them again for a good while!
