Since you posted that I remembered taking a snap shot one morning while at homedepot... this was taken a few days before I painted the front end black but I decided to posted because I thought it was sort of funny. I was afraid a car may hit me like this but I didn't wanna park so far.

 

I ran into town to the post office today and on my way back, I decided to snap a picture as I went by the buildings It's a little blurry, sorry about that.



Then I came home and washed it...

 

Got a little package today. My precious...

 

Alright TX. Welcome to the perma grin club. What tunes did you get?

 

I had them put the No Start tune in all the spots... Starting to think that was a bad idea...

 

Got my MBRP in from Clay and ordered my FTE resonator. Can't wait to install it next week

 

Huh??? All the positions?

 

It was a joke. I got no start, stock, hi - idle 1200, 80 e, and 120 vroom vroom.

 

TX, good for you man, thats great, G

 

Picked up another 25' of 1/0 gauge for the inverter (that little bugger is getting expensive to install!) Did a little mild off-roading, chasing off some kids trespassing in the vernal pools behind the neighborhood - tearing up the pools with their trucks.

Even with the weak front springs, I don't think I bounced the bump stops more than once or twice. Put it 4 high and it didn't blink.

 

Put my DP Tuner F5 in Wednesday night. I got No-Start, Stock, Hi-Idle 1300, 60 Econ, 80 Econ, 80 Tow. In 80 Econ my 0-60 time is ~10.6 seconds...compared to ~15.4 in Stock. And when I'm not romping on it my fuel mileage is also way better. I haven't done a reliabile mileage test yet but the overhead display has shown as high as 22mpg compared to the average 15s. I can't wait to tow with this extra power.

Question: I had the speedometer recalibrated for my 285s. The speedometer is dead on with my GPS. Does anyone know if the overhead display is corrected also or is it still off? And for that matter, the odometer/tripometer? I assume at least the odometer and tripometer are corrected with the speedometer.

 

Rethinking my wiring for my inverter and amps. Rather than running two sets of leads - one dedicated for the inverter and another for the amps, I'm wondering if I can take advantage of the 1/0 leads to the inverter and simply run leads from the inverter terminals to the Kinetic battery (acts as a large capacitor to protect from spikes from the amps) then on through a circuit breaker to the amps:


I posted this in the amps/stereo install thread, but I'd like a few more eyes to see it who may not follow that thread.

A little back story - the most I'd run through the inverter when the amps are on would be small stuff like laptops and radio chargers. During times when I'd use the inverter heavy, I'd have the speakers for the sub removed and the sub amp disabled from a cutoff switch for the remote lead. I'd also probably have the stereo off so I could hear the UHF/VHF.

After that little blurb and the diagram...any thoughts on if this is safe to do?

 

Aside from a battery imbalance situation with the two batteries of diff size and type, If the cables are just clamped together at the inberter with a bolt, then I would just say to make sure your wires are sized for the appropriate currrent running through them and (very important) sized for the proper voltage drop.

Be sure to put the breaker right at the kinetic battery.

I don't know if you read this before, but I'll post the link anyway.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-and-type.html

 

I'll take a look at that link...the Kinetic is actually more of a battery shaped capacitor - designed for rapid discharge and charging. It provides more power than one of those "can" capacitors (this one I think is a 600 farad).

It's not meant for deep cycle work like a regular battery, it's there to provide just enough power to prevent the lights from dimming when the amp hits.

I ran it on my Expedition and it worked great.

Knowing that, do you still see a problem with it being in the mix?

As for the wiring, I am running:
1/0 gauge from the inverter (2300/4600 peak) to the main battery
4ga from the inverter to the Kinetic and the Kinetic to the distribution block
4ga from the distribution block to the sub amp (600x2 bridged at 1ohm if memory serves)
Either 4 or 8ga from the distribution block to the Kenwoods (100x2)

The amps and Kinetic would all share the 1/0 as a power feed, and the amps would ground via 4 or 8ga.

 

The 7.3 needing a parking spot at lunch.

All I needed was a Prius parked next to me.