Tho' I am hardly a woodsman, firstrider reminded me of the one summer in Vermont where my pal and I worked for a lumberjack. Our job was to gather logs that he had cut down, chain them to the "whippletree" and "skid" them down the hill behind his big Percheron draft horses.

The guy even let us drive his big ol' Ford logging truck down the dirt road for a reason that now escapes me. What a great thrill for 15 year olds who were to young to legally drive.

The pay wasn't very good, but the memory of that time is priceless.

thanks, firstrider, for the jog in my memory

himmelberg

 

Got my bed wood off ebay. The guy works at a saw mill. I had to wait a few weeks until he found some black waknut. I think the lighter wood and Red Oak jump out at you when varnished, dominate the scene and detract from the rest of the truck. The wood fit perfect; just had to drill the holes. Ready to install. I just wet, raise the grain and sanded before painting. Seal end grain with glue/water mix. I finished with automotive clear,sanded and buff and am very happing with the way it looks against red paint. But pictures don't come out because of the high shine. I'm a wookworker but the boards have to be wider than are normally sold. This guy was less than Vintage Ford. I think it was $250 and $50 shipping.

 

Is the guy ebay name bigbucks201 because he want respond to my email's

Scott

 

If you decide to DIY this you'll need about 32 board ft ( 1'' x 12''x12'' = 1bft) If you get it rough cut from a mill you will save $ but wil need to plane it and join it. Some mills will even do this for you for more $$ or You can rent these tools Planer and tablesaw from HD or Lowes etc or local high school. Most woodworkers have these now just ask around. Prices for red oak $3.50BFT-$5.00bft (Ontario) kidney and first born (Winnipeg).You can get this at HD or Lowes already Dressed look for Clear or Select.Ash is even cheaper and most people can't tell diff if they are stained. To finish I recommend using WEST SYSTEM 2part epoxy. It's used on boats. I used it on a cedar strip canoe. Low voc doesn't turn wood yellow like other fiberglass resins. It's pricey but it lasts and can be easily repaired. Then apply a quality spar varnish. This should save you some cash $300.00 plus Shipping and Handling... OUCH
Hope this helps.

 

oak floors?? pine ?? mine is concreat...2inches thick..doesn't your truck bounce with no load in the back??

 

I got mine from midwest early ford. Number 1 grade boards. I think its cheaper and for sure more easy to buy the wood then cut/plan/router/sand and sand and sand to get a good board to fit in your bed. Its alot of work just staining and putting 5 coats of sealer on them. unless you are a master wood worker BUY THEM.

 

pic. of my wood bed

 

Looks great.

I guess some people don't have the knack to work with lumber eventhough they might be great fabricators, or tin bangers. You can stretch steel, wood ...not so much. Like everything measure twice and have lots of patience or at least a buddy that does.

 

HEY JULIE COOL are you back ?

 

That was august

Sam

 

I can work pretty good with wood, but when it comes to metal, I am clueless and all thumbs.
If you have the time patience and equipment bed wood could be done really cheap. I am about half way through the assembly process of the 12' stakebed on my F-5. I have more money invested in screws, bolts and hardware that I do in the lumber. Most of the wood I am using is red oak (including the entire frame and beams) and some white oak (for a bit of contrast on the floor). I have not started any work on the stake post and rails, but I think I have enough oak left for those. So far, I have less than $200 invested in lumber.
In the 12' floor I have about $32 in lumber.

 

I got my oak boards at Lowes. Cut the edges with a dato saw blade, about ten coats of poly clear. Take a look at my avatar to see the finished results.

 

Those look very nice, it looks like you didn't stain them at all just clear coated them with poly urethane.

 

Being a master woodworker miiled the rough sawn ash boards and the rabbits . Then applied 3 coats of sealer with 220 sanding block between each coat . Next process was applying 8 coats of Alphatic Urethane ( a 2 part product ) and block sanding with 400 between each coat . A total of 16 hrs. of block sanding . They look like wet glass !!!.

The boards came from my late fathers saw mill in N. Wis. where I grew up .The same place where the truck came from when purchased from my Grand Father for $50.00 in '68 .

 

Thanks, And correct no stain was used, just poly urethane. Firstrider, EXCELLENT JOB!!!