Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Older, Classic & Antique Trucks > 1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?


1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

Reply
 
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 08-03-2010, 05:39 PM
bagpype bagpype is offline
Junior User
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 79
bagpype is starting off with a positive reputation.
Lug bolt removal

As my ongoing fight to get my truck rolling due to wheel issues continues, my next battle involves stripped lug bolts. How do I remove them? Where do I buy them? What size do I need?
Thanks everyone!
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 08-03-2010, 06:31 PM
jowilker's Avatar
jowilker jowilker is offline
Post Fiend
 
Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: Creedmoor, North Carolina
Posts: 22,863
jowilker is a splendid one to beholdjowilker is a splendid one to beholdjowilker is a splendid one to beholdjowilker is a splendid one to beholdjowilker is a splendid one to beholdjowilker is a splendid one to behold
https://www.facebook.com/?ref=tn_tnmn jowilker
Bill will have the size. They are splined rear entry. Beat them out backwards and reverse the action with the new ones. You can pull them in nice and snug with a pull handle or air wrench.

or at least that is the poor mans method.




John
__________________
In the cool still quiet hours of night, you can hear chevies rusting away.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 08-03-2010, 06:33 PM
63' f100 63' f100 is offline
Elder User
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 552
63' f100 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Its super easy. I've broken several on my truck because they were rusty. Just take the nut off, cut it if you have to. Then take a 16 oz. hammer and hit it. You want to hit it so that the bolt goes in towards the brake drum. You need to take the drum off by the way ( it just pulls off). When you hit the bolt it should just knock out. The bolts are just a press fit. Take it to Napa or any other auto store and tell them you need another one.

PS- If you can't get it out with a 16 oz. hammer... get a bigger hammer.
__________________
CHEVROLET- Clutch Hangs Every Valve Rattles Oil Leaks Every Time

FORD- For Off Road Duty
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 08-04-2010, 01:48 PM
NumberDummy's Avatar
NumberDummy NumberDummy is offline
Ford Parts Specialist
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Hacienda Heights CA
Posts: 56,170
NumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputation
Quote:
Originally Posted by bagpype View Post
As my ongoing fight to get my truck rolling due to wheel issues continues, my next battle involves stripped lug bolts. How do I remove them? Where do I buy them? What size do I need?
Thanks everyone!
A9AZ1107B .. Lug Bolt / 1/2" -20 x 1 5/8"

Fits: 1948/52 F1 // 1953/66 F100 // 1966/77 Bronco // Myriad 1949/72 Passenger Cars.

Available at most autoparts stores.
__________________
Bill / Retired Ford Parts Manager / SoCal Chapter Member / Part number research: 1928/2001 trucks & 1928/89 passenger cars.

2013 Escape FWD 2.0L Eco-Boost
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 08-04-2010, 01:59 PM
howdy71475 howdy71475 is offline
Junior User
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Southwest KS
Posts: 69
howdy71475 is starting off with a positive reputation.
The correct way to put a lug stud in is to use a press. Hitting with a hammer can damage the head, causing it not to seat tightly (the hammer is harder than the stud). If you do not have a press then use a brass punch to install it. Never use an air wrench to "pull" a stud into place as it will stretch the threads and shorten the life of the new new stud or in worse case cause the wheel to come loose, or off. If you are installing new studs use new nuts too, it's worth it in the long run.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 08-04-2010, 02:12 PM
bagpype bagpype is offline
Junior User
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 79
bagpype is starting off with a positive reputation.
Pardon my ignorance but how would you go about installing the lug bolt with a punch? I think he was saying to remove them with a hammer not install them with one.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 08-04-2010, 02:21 PM
NumberDummy's Avatar
NumberDummy NumberDummy is offline
Ford Parts Specialist
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Hacienda Heights CA
Posts: 56,170
NumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputation
Quote:
Originally Posted by howdy71475 View Post
The correct way to put a lug stud in is to use a press. Hitting with a hammer can damage the head, causing it not to seat tightly (the hammer is harder than the stud). If you do not have a press then use a brass punch to install it. Never use an air wrench to "pull" a stud into place as it will stretch the threads and shorten the life of the new new stud or in worse case cause the wheel to come loose, or off. If you are installing new studs use new nuts too, it's worth it in the long run.
I've said this before...and got into the usual arguments with some peeps here, but I'll say it again.

Studs should be pressed out, new studs should be pressed in. Since most peeps don't have a press, autoparts stores w/a machine shop can do this and usually have new lug bolts.

On the end of the lug bolts are serrations, these retain the lug bolts into the hub and drum. Beating them in with a hammer can play havoc with the serrations, won't do the hub/drum any good either.

If the bolts get catty-wampus in the hub/drum while your beatin' away on them, the bolts won't go in correctly, causing the holes to become elongated.

If the lug bolts aren't seated properly, it's possible the drum will "walk away" from the hub. The wheel will come off, tear the hell oughtta the fender...now you aren't going anywhere!
__________________
Bill / Retired Ford Parts Manager / SoCal Chapter Member / Part number research: 1928/2001 trucks & 1928/89 passenger cars.

2013 Escape FWD 2.0L Eco-Boost
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 08-04-2010, 02:27 PM
bagpype bagpype is offline
Junior User
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 79
bagpype is starting off with a positive reputation.
You can't just use the lug nut and some washers to seat the bolt?
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 08-04-2010, 02:30 PM
NumberDummy's Avatar
NumberDummy NumberDummy is offline
Ford Parts Specialist
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Hacienda Heights CA
Posts: 56,170
NumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputationNumberDummy has a superb reputation
Go right on ahead and use that method. But, when the drum walks away from the hub while you're drivin' down the road, don't blame me!

When it comes to wheels, brakes, steering and suspension, doing things on the cheap doesn't cut it.

How much value do you put on your life and the lives of others?
__________________
Bill / Retired Ford Parts Manager / SoCal Chapter Member / Part number research: 1928/2001 trucks & 1928/89 passenger cars.

2013 Escape FWD 2.0L Eco-Boost
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 08-04-2010, 02:33 PM
bagpype bagpype is offline
Junior User
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 79
bagpype is starting off with a positive reputation.
Lol. Touché! I really only need one bolt replaced. Are you suggesting I take the entire hub off and to a machine shop to have it pressed in? If so, how difficult a task is that going to be? The hub removal that is..
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 08-04-2010, 03:08 PM
66crawler 66crawler is offline
Elder User
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 970
66crawler is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
There crazy, ill tell you how Ive done it in there past and never had a problem. Smack the old one out, slide the new one in and just seat it with a firm tap with a hammer so its not going to move, put the wheel on and tighten the lugs but leave the new one for last, when you get to the new one use an impact to seat it, then loosen all the lugs and torque them like normal. You dont need to take apart your brakes for 1 lug but, if your going to do more than one or 2 then you should have them pressed. Ive done as many as 4 lugs on one wheel doing it the backyard way and never had a problem, even with 400+ ftlbs of torque and sticky tires. Its not the way "ford" did it but it works.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 08-04-2010, 05:43 PM
howdy71475 howdy71475 is offline
Junior User
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Southwest KS
Posts: 69
howdy71475 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bagpype View Post
Pardon my ignorance but how would you go about installing the lug bolt with a punch? I think he was saying to remove them with a hammer not install them with one.
I use a 3/8" X 8" brass pin punch with a 2 1/2 lbs hammer
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 08-04-2010, 11:07 PM
OldHarley's Avatar
OldHarley OldHarley is offline
Elder User
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Dallas, Texas
Posts: 825
OldHarley has a good reputation on FTE.OldHarley has a good reputation on FTE.OldHarley has a good reputation on FTE.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bagpype View Post
Lol. Touché! I really only need one bolt replaced. Are you suggesting I take the entire hub off and to a machine shop to have it pressed in? If so, how difficult a task is that going to be? The hub removal that is..
OK, so pay attention. Remember, we will be attempting to remove the ENTIRE HUB. Alright, you're going to have to remove the wheel, but you will have to do that anyway.

And you will have to remove the brake drum, but,.... you're going to have to do that as well no matter what method you use.

Then, and this is the tricky part, there is a total of ONE nut that holds the hub on the spindle, so I guess you will have to remove that ONE nut!

I can't think of any other way around it!
__________________
Greg


2007 F150 Harley-Davidson Black/Orange
1966 F100 Custom Cab, 352 V-8, Ford 3 speed manual
1941 Harley-Davidson WLD
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 08-04-2010, 11:16 PM
bagpype bagpype is offline
Junior User
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 79
bagpype is starting off with a positive reputation.
Lol. Thanks greg. Apparently this won't be too hard then. I've nevee taken the drums apart.
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 08-04-2010, 11:47 PM
OldHarley's Avatar
OldHarley OldHarley is offline
Elder User
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Dallas, Texas
Posts: 825
OldHarley has a good reputation on FTE.OldHarley has a good reputation on FTE.OldHarley has a good reputation on FTE.
The drums are a PITA to get off, even though they just slip on over the lug bolts. Unfortunately, they have to be removed in any event, as I have said above.
__________________
Greg


2007 F150 Harley-Davidson Black/Orange
1966 F100 Custom Cab, 352 V-8, Ford 3 speed manual
1941 Harley-Davidson WLD
Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2010, 11:47 PM
 
 
 
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New project got a brake drum ??? Customcab 1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks 5 10-26-2009 03:10 PM
Lug Pattern? DieselBeast01 1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel 11 08-11-2009 01:08 PM
Safe Lug nurt socket FordF350Baby Brakes, Steering, Suspension, Tires, & Wheels 1 07-25-2008 07:59 PM
lug pattern question? SoArkSI 1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks 6 03-22-2006 11:50 PM
frozen lugs Njbmx Clutch, Transmission, Differential, Axle & Transfer Case 4 02-24-2004 03:19 AM


Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Older, Classic & Antique Trucks > 1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks

Tags
1970s, bolt, bolts, explorer, f150, ford, install, lug, lugbolt, rear, removal, removel, stripped, studs, truck

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

Forum Jump


Participate In The Forums

Create new posts and participate in discussions. It's free!

Sign Up »





All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:20 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7 AC1
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Advertising - Terms of Use - Privacy Statement - Jobs
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford® is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.

vbulletin Admin Backup