I bought this truck used a long time ago and when I first got it back in the day, I had the negative battery terminal connector changed. looks like they just put some generic everstart clamp type connector you can buy from walmart.
anyways fastforward to today and the last few weeks ive been having issues with the positive connector. think its the stock version. its looking kinda rusty and corrodes easily. every four or five days the engine doesnt start so i have to get a toothbrush and clean off the connector. i plan on changing it with the same kind of generic connector ive got on the negative side.
looking at it I see two red cables that lead to the connector. where they connect I see this tan wrap around them with a black wrap around that. im assuming if i just get rid of these wraps, ill see the wires? and then I can just clamp the wires in the generic connector and i should be good to go?
ive read on these boards you are better off changing the entire cables but money is real right and id rather just buy a 3 dollar connector.
well i took the wrappings off. looks like the connector has been clamped prettty hard over the wires. i cant pull the wires out and im not sure im gonna be able to pry open the part that has been clamped down.
i may have to just cut the wire and then strip it down some to get more exposed. not sure the cable is long enough though.
if not, i guess my only other option would be to just install a whole new cable. these ford cables though seem a little more confusing than others ive seen.
I learned a great trick from an old mechanic on this style of terminal. Take a lead generic terminal ($1.50 at oreilly) cut off the flat part that is used to smash the wire into. Take the factory terminal and push the nut out the back side using the clamp bolt, pliers and a 9/16 socket. Cut the factory terminal after where the nut was and install it on the clamp bolt of the new terminal. It gives you a new and stronger terminal and keeps the factory insulation and soldered on end which is way less likely to corode than when its cut open with the wires exposed.
I've had the end go bad on two vehicles. The first I had the wiring harness replaced where it goes to the main fuse terminal under the hood on my TBird a few years ago. That cost something like $150+ at the time. It happened the other year on my 97 F150 and I planned to do the same thing. Difference was I went to the auto parts store (AutoZone I think) and they had a aux cable for multiple batteries, etc in stock. It has the same end as the factory cable, about 12" of cable then a connector you put the existing cable in that's clamped down and has a shrinkwrap sleeve for it. I cut off the end of the cable about 2" back from the existing end, pealed the insulation. Slip the sleeve over the cable and pushed it into the connector and screwed it down. Slip the sleeve over the connector and heat it up to shrink it down and you're done.
I have not had any issues with it since I put it on and it was under $15 IIRC so the price was good too. It worked for me and I'd do it again if the need arose.
When I have had to replace the terminals on mine I always buy a small thing of solder and the terminals that need soldered. I put them in the vise, use a propane torch to heat them and fill them both with solder. Let them cool. The get my vise grips on them and take them out the truck. I then put another vise grips in the wire. It helps alot to have another pair of hands helping but I have done it by myself. Heat the terminals until the solder is liquid again and shove the wires in. Hold them together for about 10 seconds. On my 76 ford I did this and 5 years later there is zero corrosion on them. Not sure why these do not corrode as much as the lead ones or softer ones. If I have to replace cables I always made my own. A little more money but I bout 2/0 cable to do it. When they are soldered I have never had one corrode, break, or work loose.
Not as cheap as the clamp ons but it will last a long time.