Today the wife's excursion ('02 V10 Limited Ultimate) came home today on a rollback. I think I saw my X ('05 Limited Diesel) shed a tear but it might have just been condensate from the air conditioner...
She was at the mall (suprise!) coming up to a traffic light, hits the brakes, pedal goes to the floor, hits the minivan in front of her. Nobody injured except the back hatch of the minivan where the X's tow hook punched it.
I get there, trucking leaking brake fluid like it's mortally wounded, brake line from Master cylinder to rear brake hose, corroded and ruptured. As I looked at it, everywhere it's held in place by a keeper, it's corroded.
I've been working on cars for probably 31 years, I've never encountered a corroded brake line, rusty looking sure, rotted out, no.
So, I call the dealership for a replacement line. Not all parts are available. Line from Master Cylinder to long line to back hose is available, $61. Long line to rear brake hose only available bundled with vapor and fuel line $385. Rear line, I'm not sure which this is cause I'm at work, is "Obtain locally and fabricate"
Anyone ever run into this problem? I'm thinking I'm going to buy 3/8" brake line from Napa and make it myself. Originally I was going to do both sides, but $800 for 2 lines? I think I could mess up a few times and still be out WAY cheaper.
I'm outside of philly, corrosion is what is here, but it's not like I'm in the Great North.
That really bites, sorry to hear about your misfortune and glad everyone is OK. The rusted brake lines have been reported here several times. Sounds like you might as well have at it with a tubing bender and a double flaring tool, for that price that's what I would do.
Not an uncommon thing at all. There have been a few cases reported here on Ex's but I've seen quite a bit on various cars at my shop. In my area it's the salt air as well as people driving on the beach - in the northern climates it's the chemicals and salt used on the road which take their toll. The best thing is having a shop fabricate it from scratch - just make sure they know what they are doing with the double flare tool to ensure you have a good joint. If you have the ability - it's not difficult to learn and you can get the parts and flare kit at most auto stores.
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2003 Excursion EB 4x4 V10, MT ATZ 285/75-16, Hawk LTS pads, Optima Yellow Top, Rancho RS9000XL shocks and Rancho 5410 steering stabilizer
1974 Bronco 4x4 - 302, 3spd, 3.54 LSD front and rear - Restored beach toy
ASE Certified Technician www.coastalfastlube.com
Just went through this on my '94 Explorer. Right rear line... looked ok everywhere except where it was attached to the axle housing. Rusted out and ruptured, just like you described.
I bought some generic replacement lines from NAPA and bent them myself.
Sorry to hear of the misfortune. Same thing happened on an old Chevy truck I used to drive. Just cruising along and all of a sudden "Hey look! My pedal is touching the firewall...CRAP!" Fortunately I was far enough from traffic to downshift and use the e-brake to allow me to safely pull of the road. From what it sounds like, your wife was in heavy enough traffic that the rear-ending was unavoidable. Glad everyone is fine - that's all that matters.
Sorry to read this. It would be a scary thought to lose your brakes in an Ex, especially if going downhill on the highway. I think I will be inspecting mine soon...
Best of luck with the repairs - glad noone was hurt.
For that price you could possibly replace the line with Aeroquip stainless and stll have enough money left over to take your wife out for a nice dinner.
I bought a 92 Ranger that was originally from Philly and it turned out to be a serious rust bucket. The rear spring mounts were rusted nearly through and broke before we got it home. It only had 60,000 miles and was otherwise a great truck. They must use an excessive amount of salt in the winter.
I lost my brakes in my X 2 weeks ago. Pedal went to the floor but luckily it had enough pressure to stop. Right rear caliper had a piston literally explode causing fluid to get past the seal.
In your situation, I'd just make new lines. I've done it many times on some project cars here at the shop. Good luck with whatever you do!
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Chris
