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A stock Traction-Lock rear differential does not affect cornering very much, unless you really goose it while turning. Remember that all clutch-based LSDs use the force of the side load between the spider gears and the side gears to engage the clutch. So the harder you accelerate, the more the clutch grabs. As a standard measure, you are supposed to use the friction modifier with the gear lube in LSDs, so it delays lock-up a little more. But these LSDs depend on SOME resistance to work, so they use a pre-load spring to apply some pressure on the clutches. In Ford's, that equates to about 40 lbs-ft or torque to help move the car if one tire sits on a completely slick surface.
There are variations on the Torsen that also use a pre-load spring to prevent being completely stuck wen just one tire is stuck. If you look at a Torsen design, it's just an open diff with specially cut gears that prevent the two sides from easily turning independently. The angles on the gear teeth determine how much torque difference is required to force the two sides to differentiate, and this will have an effect on cornering. The greater the difference you make it, the more traction difference it will take to force the loose side to spin freely, like an open diff. On the other hand, if you regularly drive in icy weather, this setup will cause more skidding around turns, so you would prefer a looser gearing, which will not work as well if you got one tire stuck in something slick. So a good compromise is a looser gear set with a pre-load clutch, just like a standard LSD.
The locker type diffs don't use clutches, but spring loaded gears that lock the two side together but pop apart when the motion difference between the two sides become too great and the built up tension is enough to overcome the springs. The disengagement pressure is controlled by the springs, and have the same compromise as the Torsen. Too tight, and you will skid more around turns, too loose, and it is less effective going straight through slick surfaces. In general, lockers are designed toward the tighter end of things, so their releases are rather abrupt, and will affect handling. I've seen them used on Mustangs before, and they're a handful on road courses; they're really for drag racers who still want to drive a little on the streets, where turns are necessary.
So I checked my new TC today. Resistance 3.8 Ohm, it draws 4.5 Amps so the coil is OK. I put a wisegrip on the rear output, inserted the front DS, gave some juice to the coil, stepped on top of the TC and tried to turn the front shaft with a pipe wrench. Did not move. I'll put this thing in tomorrow.
I was a bit concerned too so first I wrapped the shaft in a piece of rag but the wisegrip slipped off. Then I put the WG on the bare shaft as tight as possible figuring that as long as it won't move it'll be OK.
Yep, it did not leave any marks.
So finaly I did the TC swap yesterday.
I was waaay too lazy to follow the instructions from the service manual. I just dropped the rear DS, disconnected the strud and removed the 5 bolts that hold the TC to the tranny extension house. Thanks for my ultra-modern, futuristic TC-jack it was a breeze to install the TC back on.
How did you hook up that switch?
I guess in the "OFF" position it cuts power to the control module, in "AUTO" it does nothing and in "ON" position it supplies power directly to the clutch.
So what about the "ON" position. Doesn't it make the control module go banana? I mean the switch puts 12V on the CM's output. I'd think that would generate some fault codes doesn't it? Or does the switch cut the power to the CM at the same time?
Did you use any diodes or relays for the setup?
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