I had rear LSD and 2wd van jumped out jack.

Well, no TC lock up, but solenoid resistance is OK, so clutch pack is worn. So try to get used T-case ore clutch unit. Else T-case will work like uncontrolled central diff.

seems to me it is cheapper to get used, but operating well t-case on JY, but if you have time and insperation you may cut and take apart clutch unit. may be you'll be the first who will find a way to repare faulty clutch

 

From an earlier post of mine..


I got it figured out..
A good test is to jack up one front wheel, lock the emer brake, foot on the brake,start the van, put it in drive,foot off the brake. The front wheel off the ground should spin for a few seconds then stop and repeat...You shouldn't be able to stop it with your hands at all..
Having 3 96's is great for DD. My mint green one worked as described..The wifes you could tell locks up but barely has enough power to spin thus the clutch is bad..So the clutch is working just has no holding power my blue one works good also..So I'm either going to take the unit out of my junk 94 or buy a new one put it into the green one and take the one out of the green van and put that one into my wifes van..
Anybody confused yet?

Dick

 

how many hours will you lay down under your van swaping parts? JY T-case is the easiest way, if U'll be lucky to get one with good clutch ))) LOL

 

I don't think lifting up the van completely would be a good way. Chances are all wheels will start to spin and even a worn, about to die clutch would be able to lock just enought to move the unloaded axles.
I put a hydraulic jack under the axle and lift it so that the tire won't touch the ground. I am talking about a 1/4 inch gap. Of course, plenty of room around. If the clutch locks down the van will jump a whole 1/4 inch off the jack. I am positive that this is a safe way to test the clutch.

I hotwired the thing at the connector up at the control module. Could not hear it click but it did draw some juice.

I have just finished cleaning the new t-case, I'll check it out this afternoon and I'll do the swap probably on Saturday.

I definitely will take the old one apart. I gotta see that clutch inside!

 

we used to check clutch turning t-case with hands when we conected solenoid to 12V, but it does not mean it will work fine on truck.

 

Pablo. I know it is a bit but would an LSD fit into the same housing or it has its own axle? It'd be nice to have an LSD at the rear. How does it affect cornering?

 

I know it's a bit of gamble with used stuff but in the worst case I'll get a brand new clutch from e-bay ($45 bucks) and will rebuild the old t-case.

 

I am sure that most of the passenger vans have good clutches as soccer moms don't drive in a way that would use and worn out the clutch. Mine is a cargo van and used to be a Priority Courier van. Lost of miles in the T-case. Engine and tranny rebuit though.

I dont care about the hours. I am very happy when I am working on machines

 

yeah. I can work on my truck. I work on semis and my labor hour is more expencive then car mechanic's hour. so I have to pay....

 

I think you have to drop the case in order to replace the clutch. But if I were to replace it, I would make sure the one going in has a functioning clutch BEFORE I do the swap. You can install the front and rear drive shafts into the case to put load on them to check the clutch effectiveness.

You can get an LSD for your rear axle, but it is effectively a full rebuild, since you will be replacing the differential unit, which requires re-setting the ring and pinion. (Not like a 9 inch with the removable third member.)

 

may be it is easier to put manual ore electrical BW t-case from explorer and cpnvert van to part time 4WD and use front drive when you get in stuck.

 

Good idea! I have an extra front drive shaft, it is fairly easy to pull out the rear shaft then I can test the new t-case with some serious torque.

As long as an LSD fits into the same axle I would give it a try. So how does it affect cornering? I heard that vehicles with LSDs show under-steered behaviors around corners. How bad is that?

 

It's sooo tempting to have a low gear... I imagine pulling out a heavy boat from the lake on a steep ramp or just climbing a really steep hill on a logging road... ohh baby.

But I prefer full time 4wd with the central diff. With a BW t-case you can't drive with 4wd on an icy highway at higher speed. Last winter my friend did a 360 with his Toyota Tacoma. He was surprised when I pointed out the fact that the lack of a central diff can cause this kinda fun around icy corners.

That is why I like the Lada Niva. Full time 4wd with lockable central diff and low gear. I wonder if it would possible to fit a Niva t-case on an A-Star?

 

niva t-case is symmetrical. 50:50. weight distribution of niva is 50:50. what wheels start skid in curve when you press gas pedal too agressively depends on current weight distribution. if you drive RWD rear axe may skid, FWD - front axe relativelly, but driving niva you may get both right hand wheels ore left hand weels skidding, so this car is for profy)). Niva t-case is lo-hi.. better for towing, but it is noisy and niva is light car. torq capasity is not enought for aero. New niva tranny with aisin t-case tranny mounted. no ds with UJs fits this tranny all drive shafts are with CVs.

DANA t-case is a good thing, but now ford use torsen central diff. It is electronically controlled LSD. Haldex diff is good too.

 

OK. Niva t-case is out. Maybe I should get a whole Niva. I've always wanted one.

Torsen diffs are OK but they can do only so much. When one wheel is up in the air then it is just a regular open diff.
I kinda like the lockers that big trucks use. It provides full lock up but the clutch slips if the torque increases to a dangerous level thus prevents any mechanical damage to the gears.
I wonder if they have that kinda stuff in smaller diffs as well?