I have a 96 F150 2WD short wheelbase with the M5R2. I have read here and other forums many posts on swapping to a ZF. I think I have most items resolved except for two items. Is getting a two piece ZF driveshaft and getting it shorten the best way to go? Is the tunnel cover different between the two trans?

 

The tunnel cover is not different. I have heard that the rear mount is different, and I have heard it is not different. The one I have is very different than what was in my truck, but my truck was converted from auto, so that doesn't count.

You don't have to get a 2-piece driveshaft, you just need to convert your driveshaft from the slip yoke you have now to the flange the ZF uses.

 

Thank you for the reply. From what I have read the 2WD ZF is shorter than the M5R2 so will my driveshaft work(length-wise) with the flange the ZF uses. Anyone have a picture of the ZF flange?<!-- / message --><!-- sig -->

 

I am not sure about the length issue. The flange that you need on the front of your driveshaft looks the same as the one you now have on the rear.

 

If you use a single piece driveshaft, it must have a slip joint to work with the fixed yoke on the ZF. I'm not sure how well or if Ford ever used a two piece driveshaft on a short wheelbase truck (I assume standard cab, short bed?). The transmission crossmemeber is the same as the Mazda - I used one from an '95 F150 in my '87 under the ZF. The isolator (rubber mount) should also be the same and should transfer to the ZF. I got the tunnel cover out of the same truck, so it will also work fine with the ZF.

 

Thanks for the reply. That is my concern in regards to the slip joint, there needs to be some "play" when wheels go over a bump,and the reason for the two-piece question, yes(standard cab,short bed). I have located a ZF locally already out(private owner) but he doesn't have the orginal driveshaft.

 

A Bronco would have a driveshaft with a slip joint in the middle. You could have one lengthened to fit your truck.

 

Oh, yeah, good point, I kinda forgot about that. I was just thinking in terms of 1-piece vs. 2-piece, but you are correct, he's gotta have a driveshaft with a slip-joint in it one way or the other.

 

Here's two, are they close enough for you? ;)
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/zfyoke.jpg

Maybe you'll like this one better...
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/Bronco2wd.jpg
...that's a 2wd ZF in a Bronco.

Alvin in AZ

 

Yes. Those are close enough although I don't understand what the close-up is showing me. The second however is great, that's what I wanted to see. Thanks for replying. Is that a new custom made driveshaft or one that has been lengthened or shortened?

 

I now have the trans. After reading somemore I'm thinking a long wheelbase 4WD slip-joint rear shaft or the rear from a F250 which has a slipjoint might work. Granted more than likely I'll have to have some work done on them before it fits correctly. Since I have the short wheelbase(117 inch), maybe I will have a few more options as far as length is concerned. Thanks again for all the help.

 

The close-up shows the damage from where 1+1/16" u-joint caps were
used instead of 1+1/8" caps. The mechanic ruined the ZF's yoke and the
10.25's yoke both. :/ Title and/or pay does not a good mechanic make. ;)

I flat don't know anything about that driveshaft. :/ I took some driveshaft
parts in and told him the length I needed and he just happened to have
that one hanging on the wall! LOL :)

Looked to be a custom job that wasn't picked up on time to me. :/
Dusty, tagged and ready to go.

...the length -and- one end was already perfect, so Wade Simmonds just
changed the caps from 1+1/16" to 1+1/8" (on the one end) and I was out
of there without paying a penny.

IME, don't fret the driveshaft work. It'll be money well spent, -if you want
it to run nice and smooth down the freeway. BTDT and paid cash even. ;)

Alvin in AZ