And also I don't want to sound stupid but what's the yoke for?

 

I went ahead and changed the yoke to match the driveshaft rather buy a conversion u-joint.

Plus, I broke the 1330 yoke unloading it so I needed another anyways

Josh

 

Ok guys, I hope you can help me.

I am in the middle of a similar swap. I had a 360 and a C6 in a 73' F100 2wd. I have an 86 300 and a 70's New Process sitting in it now.
I got the different 300 drivers side engine pedestal so I could bolt it right in. I understand that many people say that the passenger's side engine pedestal for the 300 and the FE is the same so I kept that one.

I did not change the location of the transmission cross member or turn it around.
I bolted the transmission first and over the weekend I set the engine in. The passenger side pedestal is about 0.5" too far forward for the engine mount. The drivers side mount seems to fit pretty well but the pedestal mount is taller and it may be possible that it is bending to accommodate the engine being farther back.

In the transmission's current location, the shifter comes through the floor right in the middle of the hole in the floor (the middle of the hole in the floor plate for manual transmissions)

So, does anybody know if the passenger side 300 pedestal is different from the FE pedestal?
Or do I need to move the transmission 1/2 an inch some how? Will turning the cross brace 180 degrees do this?

 

Reuse the old FE engine perch.

Sounds like you're trying to use a pre-78 mount along with a 78+ mount.

Josh

 

I forgot to add that I got the older style mounts for the engine as well. I measured the forward distance from the studs on each style of the right side engine mount to the forward bolt hole and they are practically the same, that is, the distance from the stud to the hole is the same. The angles of the pads in relation to the ground are different though.

 

Not sure as the perches are the same 73-76 for FE and 300

Josh

 

I'm doing the same swap in my 1974 f350 with the 390 engine. Can anyone tell me or send me a picture of how the pivot point attached to the engine block I can't figure it out.

 

This link from LMC might be of some help (F100-250, but probably the same)...........Truck Parts and Truck Accessories

 

Hey I know I super late to this thread but I look at these old forums all the time. Im 18 I own a few old Fords and I'm working on a 78 F-150 Ranger XLT. Its got a 460 with power steering and A/C. When I bought it, it had a c6 but I've never been a fan of 3 speed autos so after overhauling the engine and upgrading a few things I scavenged some parts and found a T18 from a 79 F250 with a 460 for $20, no play in the shaft all. I did every thing you did exept I decided to converted into a hydrolic clutch instead of using the z bar. Everything works mechanicaly but I ran into a problem and I haven't read anywhere about it. Since this truck has everything avaliable in that year (A/C, Power Steering, Cruise Control, ext.) it has an unbelievable amount of wires under the dash and in the engine bay and I can't get through what to do about the Neutral Safety Switch (meant to prevent engine crank while trans was in gear) and what to do so the back up lights work with the new T18. What I mean is I'm clueless as to what to do so I can bypass the switch so the wire going to the solenoid is always hot and what wire I have to move around to make it work with the switch in the transmission. I'm very new to the game since 16 when I bought my first 460 dentside and I dont want to spend money on things i dont need to when i can just modify it myself. Any suggestions amd tips are well appreciated.

Thanks.

 

Yea so I ended up cutting the wires on the neutral safety switch that same day. There were 4 wires: 2 for the starter and 2 for the backup lights. I just connected the two for the starter so that the engine could start and then the other two I connected to a connector which I connected to the reverse switch. Easy as ****. But thanks for the help, you guys.

Now I am almost 20 and I am doing the same thing for my 94 Bronco so I am back here as always looking for ideas because it has an E4OD, not a C6, and that bitch has way more than 4 wires. Shouldn't be that hard. This thread is dead anyway lmao.