I'VE GOT A LEAK THAT APPEARS TO BE COMING FROM THE SECONDARY FUEL FILTER HOUSING (THE ONE IN THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT)...IT'S NOT COMING FROM THE FILTER, BUT FROM THE SIDE, WHERE THERE ARE 4 ALLEN BOLTS THAT ATTACH A FITTING TO THE SIDE OF THE HOUSING...CAN I CHANGE OUT THE GASKET FOR THAT PIECE? I'VE ALREADY TIGHTENED THE BOLTS, BUT THE LEAK PERSISTS. THANKS!

 

Can you take some pictures???

Do you see exactly where it is leaking? That is the regulator housing. Clean it off then turn the key. Once the key is on the pump will start and presure will build. You should then see the leak.

Start a signiture so we know what you drive

 

Now is the time to do your fuel pressure regulator update. Go to your local nearest Ford dealer and ask for part number 3C3Z-9T517-AG. The kit includes everything needed to repair your leak AND bump up fuel pressure from 55 psi at idle to 65 psi. Kill two birds with one stone.

 

Hopefully you didn't over tighten the bolts and crack the housing. The gasket is pretty much reusable, but is readily available. As Steve said.....check it with the pump only running--it should be very easy to see.

 

Thanks for the reply...I'll be sure to setup so that everyone knows what I'm drivin...I've got a 2005 f250 SuperDuty 6.0. Here's a link to a photo...

Picasa Web Albums - DAC - Untitled Album


the leak is NOT from the brass plug, or from the fuel lines that enter/exit this housing...the leak appears to be coming from the seal - the side piece that is attached to the main housing with the 4 allen bolts visible in the picture.

Thanks again for the help.

m.a.

 

no, I'm pretty careful with these things..I didn't overtighten them. The leak was there prior to my changing the filter...I thought that changing the filter would stop the leak..but alas, no.

NOTE: THE REASON I CHANGED THE FILTERS IN THE FIRST PLACE IS DUE TO A HOT START PROBLEM; I HAD A DIESEL MECHANIC TELL ME THAT CHANGING THE FILTERS WAS THE FIRST PLACE TO START...THAT'S FINE, BUT I STILL HAVE THE HOT START ISSUE. IS IT DUE TO THE REGULATOR ISSUE? PLEASE ADVISE.

THANKS!

 

TO CLARIFY: When I start my 6.0 superduty diesel cold, it's fine...starts right up. If I drive all over town and turn it off, I have to wait as long as 20 minutes (or more) for it to cool down before it'll start again. Usually that requires me putting the pedal to the floor, whereupon I get a super-revved start, if that makes sense (when it finally starts, there is an initial RPM surge, then it runs normal)...again, it's only when it's hot. When it's cool, it starts on the spot.

 

Well the diesel mechanic isn't very familiar with the operation on these engines then. THIS issue is likely caused by a high pressure oil system leak. These engines use high pressure engine oil to control fuel pressure at the combustion chambers. When the engine is cold, the oil thickens up enough to overcome the leak source to enable the engine to start. But when the engine is at operating temperature, the oil thins out and can't produce enough pressure for the engine to start. Your STC fitting is likely needing to be ditched in favour of the updated one piece branch tube connector. The part number from Ford for this kit is 4C3Z-9B246-F.

 

I'm going to look into getting these parts...I am really grateful for your help, guys. This forum is seriously cool...Thanks again!

 

I will look this up...but could you tell me what the STC fitting is? Hope this is not too elementary..I'm not a mechanic (really.)

 

Here is a good article to describe the part:

Diesel Technician Society

 

Is there any publication or internet link that anyone knows of that will show me how to replace the HPOP connector bracket (replacing the STC) in my '05 f250 SD?

 

Do you know that the STC fitting is under the turbo under a cover at the back of the motor? If you aren't a mechanic then you would probably be better off to have it done, but it's fairly costly since it's labor intensive.

 

no, i didn't know this...though i'm not a mechanic, i've replaced clutches, trannys, ball joints, drive train segments etc over the years...and i'm very meticulous...unless this is just not possible without the full spectrum of shop tools, i'd like to give it a shot...is there any other simpler, just as likely fix to this issue (is the STC a misdiagnosis?). Please advise. Thank you all so much!

 

05's are notorious for the stc fitting leak.