1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series TrucksDiscuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks
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I need some help I have 1957 F100 V8 Y block 272 or 292
well anyway I had the engine rebuilt completely and the mechanic set everything up so that #1 was top dead center and all I had to do was put in the distributor and point the rotor to where the book that he had was #1, Well I did that yesterday I tried turning it over and it was back firing from the carb and the exhaust pipe sounds to me the timing is off. I'm looking for some guidance on what to do next and also looking at the distributor where is the #1 on the cap mine is not marked I think it's the first one pass the vacuum modulator going towards the firewall
1957 Ford F100
Pull the coil wire. Remove the valve cover and watch the rocker arms on the #1 cylinder while you have someone "bump" the starter. When the rocker arm opens then closes the #1 intake valve start watching the timing mark and pointer. When the timing mark aligns with the pointer (might have to stop bumping when gets close turn engine by hand, fan etc) then #1 cylinder should be firing. If exhaust valve rocker starts moving gone too far. You can also do this by not removing valve cover but remove # 1 spark plug put your finger to the spark plug hole when feel suction start watching timing mark do that way. Once you have timing mark aligned (after intake stroke but before exhaust) check see where distributor rotor pointing, put on dist cap note where on cap rotor pointing, put #1 wire there then go thru firing order put rest of wires in. Or, if you ar a stickler for detail can pull distributor out reinstall where shop manual says #1 should be on dist cap. go from there. Havent worked on a Y block in many many years so cant get more specific. Will probably take several tries. Good luck!
Thanks for replying I pulled the #1 plug and pump it over and found that the rotor was 90 degrees off! I already put it where it should be and cranked it over 5 other times and I'm 99.9 sure it's right on, Unfortnately there's no marks on the damper that I can see at least, the mechanic who rebuilt my engine painted it so I have to get some stripper and see what I come up with.
I'll reply again when she's purring
1957 Ford F100
If you get a flash light and look really close you will see the engraved marks then you can paint it with a whit marker. If I'm not mistaken the rotor will point at the #1 plug when you have compression on it, the thumb on the #1 plug hole is probably hte easiest way to check the compression.
Thats what I'm going to do today I looked last night and couldn't find anything on the damper so I'm going to strip the area where the marks should be with paint stripper. I'll let you know what I find.
1957 Ford F100
Hi have 272 on my 56 just rebuilt I m almost ready to fire it up. Had the guy who did the engine to set number one on compression to set distributor. Dont know if two valves in number one shoul be close or open but two push roads move dont know if ok . I tried to set distributor today got that in but no sure if did it ok should the points be open or close when pointing numer one. HOW the lobe in distributor shaft should be with the pionts on the flat part or on the lobe thanks for any advice this is my first time with y block i've worked on engines but this just diferent.
Wow, this must set the record, a ten YO thread.
The Y block is a bit different when setting the cam timing to the crankshaft. If your engine builder did not know these engines or have a manual to follow, chances are he did it wrong. Timing marks should be 12 pins apart on the chain, not straight up. Assume he did it right for now. Crank the engine till you come up on compression stroke on number one. Both valves closed. The rotor should point to near the rear of the distributor and the cap should have a number one mark thereon. If cam timing is right it should start.
1949 F-4 Built to drive--script bed.
1956 F350 Stock rebuilt script bed
2007 F150 SC. Driven once in a whle.
So, how is this PC stuff working out for you, America?
Thanks for you reply will tell you a little bit of the story. My engine was running fine my plan was only re gasket new timing chain etc. when took engine covers valves, oil pan, valley, timing chain cover. Etc noticed a lot of dirt and some rust in the whole engine so I had the money and decided rebuilt complete . Before start taking engine covers apart I looked for compression on #1 harmonic balancer mark TDC pointing the pointer on water pump and distributor rotor. Pointing. # 1 took front engine cover out and notice cam 9 o'clock and crank 3 o'clock checked one more time y I align two marks at 3 o'clock distributor will point #6 and number cylinder piston is up but no compression at all that is confusing like I said engine was running just fine. Now after rebuilding. Went to rebuilder shop I wanted to see engine finish but with out front cover yeah two marks at 3 o'clock but when I asked him to set engine for me right where the distributor. Should be set he turned the crank put his finger on # one when he got compression he said this is it set it here. So the marks were just same way when I took engine apart at the beginning cam 9 crank 3 if this is not ok why engine. Was running. Fine
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