Anyone have a ball park figure on how much it would cost to re-gear a 2008 F-250SD 4x4 from 3.73 to 4.10?

 

Just curious, but which engine do you have?

I regeared a RWD car a while ago, gears costs me around $300. You'll have twice that with 2 axels (aka 4x4). Figure equal amount for parts an albor if you have it done somewhere. So I would guess around $1000-1500. You could probably find some junk yard gears though, and cut a few hundred off.

But that is a very rough estimate. I did not work myself and bought new gears from Summit Racing, so my prices may be skewed, but just a rough idea.

 

That is sort of what I am looking for. I assume all I would need are the internal gears, and not new axle shafts...

 

I'm not 100% sure, but I doubt you would need new axle shafts. Most of the parts will carry over without an issue. But like I said, I only did one older RWD car, not a super duty.

 

They say changing the gears out isn't that hard, just getting the shims right is that hard part.....I'm not that brave. Should be two things to change if memory serves me correct, the ring gear and the pinion(?) gear. I could look it up but I'm being lazy lol. The easiest way is to hit a junkyard and find the entire axles with the 4.10 in them and just switch out the axles. Ok, so maybe not the easiest but the cheapest. As far as cost, $1000-1200 sounds about right to me.

 

If its 4wd and you use OE gears out back and Yukons up front with labor your looking at over a grand for shure.

 

While I usually advocate for ring and pinion changes over other performance adders such as tuners, air filters, exhaust, etc... jumping from 3.73 to 4.10 on a gasoline engine is probably not going to be worth the money. You'd only be looking at increasing your engine speed a couple of hundred rpm tops.

Expect to pay $1500 for a gear change on a 4wd vehicle.

If you have the 5.4L or 6.8L, I'd seriously consider going to 4.30 if you're keeping stock-ish sized tires (35" and under).

I'm sort of in the same boat. I'd really like to have 4.30 ring and pinions behind my 5.4L, but the jump from my existing 4.10 would hardly be worth the cash to me. All in all, gearing is a very personal matter.

To answer your question- you'll need front and rear ring and pinions, master install kits for both axles, and new differential bearings to be safe. Add in several quarts of gear lube, gasket compound, and labor and I bet you'd be looking at $12-1500.

 

A local off-road shop quoted me $900 per axle for gears and lockers, going from 3.73s to 4.10s on an '04. After some research and talking to some folks, I determined that a gear change would be a waste of money. It would actually be more of a hindrance at highway speeds, especially if I was towing. FWIW, I am going to try and stuff a 315/75R16 on the truck, and I will NEVER go bigger...I'm still hesitating. With that tire size, the gear change just wasn't warranted. May be a different story if you're running a gasser though.

EDIT: Found my numbers I ran in the calculator. Someone feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, but recommened towing RPM on a 6.0 PSD is 1900-2400RPM.

305 70 R16 with 3.73s - This is my current set up:

70mph = 2140 rpm
80mph = 2445 rpm

305 70 R16 with 4.10s - Don't know why I would run this combo, unless I changed gears and went up in tire size now, but dropped back down later

70mph = 2352rpm
80mph = 2688rpm

315 75 R16 with 3.73s - Moving up one tire size, not regearing

70mph = 2028rpm
80mph = 2318rpm

315 75 R16 with 4.10s -

70mph = 2230rpm
80mph = 2548rpm

 

Still, it does make a substantial difference.

Taking a sample pickup (2009 F-250 CC LB 4x4 5.4L with an automatic) let's compare the Ford max towing weight.

https://www.fleet.ford.com/showroom/...erDutyConv.pdf

Max towing weight goes from 9300 to 11,300 pounds by adding the 4.10 gears.

 

Agreed. Just my .02 as I'm more concerned about RPMs than bumping my tow rating. Probably much more noticable in a gasser.

 

Redford is right- gearing makes a pretty big difference in the towing numbers.

I was just going by the cost vs empty performance ratio. The difference is there, no doubt, but it is debatable whether it's worth $1000+. I still think if Frozen has a gas engine and running 33-35" tires, 4.30 would be the better choice.


I'd compare the minimal gains of gearing from 3.73 to 4.10 to going back and adding in an OEM Ford Traction-Loc to your axle. You're getting traction gains, but I have a hard time justifying the cost when the performance is so small.

 

Going to 4.10s really isn't enough change to justify the cost. What engine do you have and what tire size will you be running? What are your reasons for the gear swap, towing power? I wouldn't spend the money unless going to 4.30s at least.

 

Main reason is towing power. Everything is stock in the truck.

 

What engine is in the truck? Stock wheels/tires doesn't tell us much, do you have 17", 18" or 20" wheels?



Those numbers look a little off to me. I have the 4R100 in my truck but still have the same OD ratio and I have 33s on my truck. I'm running at 1980rpm @ 70 in OD with the TQ locked.(Verified on trucks gauges and scangauge) If I was running 35s my rpm would be even lower.

 

3:73 to 4:10 simply isnt enuf of a jump to make it worth doing..

plain and simple.. if your ordering a truck new maybe but if your paying to have gears swapped. then go higher or you'll be kicking yourself later for not jumping higher..

i quarentee it..